Home Made Landscape Rake

Schultz · Apr 14, 2003

Great Job, on the rake.

What CAD program did you use to design this. I've been wanting to make one for a while now, just a scaled down version, about 50". Do mind sharing the cad files?

Makers_Mark · Apr 14, 2003

The program I used was 3dmax, but I could convert the file to DXF that could be imported into any CADD program. Email me and I'll send it to you.

Anonymous Poster · Apr 14, 2003

Question: the main metal frame is that a solid piece of steel or is it a rectangle tubing of some kind?? Im trying to put together a material list of steel to get at the steel yard. Thanks

Makers_Mark · Apr 15, 2003

The main horizontal member is 3"x5"x1/4" thick. The support members are 2"x2" and any steel that lift pins go through is 1/2" thick. I will do an exploded axonometric with dimensions for anyone who would like.

Makers_Mark · Apr 15, 2003

sorry, 2 1/2" x 5"

djradz · Apr 16, 2003

Beautiful job Mark. My rear scraper blade, made by IH, has exactly the same little tab made almost the same as your proposing. It does just what you're expecting it to. Except, mine does't have to be removed to turn my blade 180. Is your pivot bolt not in the center, otherwise I don't see why you'd have to pull your's off to turn the blade. Not sure you really need any kind of grease zerk. It's not like that thing is going to be spinning around. Grease it up once when you put it together and it's probably good for 10 years. Anyway, very nice job!

Ross · Apr 18, 2003

I really like this rake and will build one ASAP.
I can't really see any reason to drill 2 holes per tine vs just welding them on the cross member. It looks like easy access for a grinder to break the welds of broken tines and no worry of rotation with them securly welded inplace. However, I've never used a rake so possibly these tines break all the time and then it would make sense to have them bolt on.
Any input?
Thanks,
Ross

Makers_Mark · Apr 18, 2003

Having put this rake through the test, the blades do rotate. I'm either going to weld a 1" piece of steel between each tine or weld the tines to the cross member. Less labor in welding them directly, and you're right that it would be easy enough to grind the welds off if one breaks. Depends on how my weekend looks. As far as breaking the tines, I don't think that will happen that often (I could be wrong). I've seen the tines get caught on roots and such and bend a way back. They just spring right back to shape.

Anonymous Poster · Apr 18, 2003

I'm neither a good welder nor a metallurgist, but I've seen some discussions about welding spring steel, and I assume the tines must be something like spring steel. Maybe someone who knows more about this could chime in - I'd hate to see the tines break more easily because they are welded...

Anonymous Poster · Apr 18, 2003

Don mentioned problem about spring steel welding. It is usually heat hardened. If your tines are hardened, i suggest you use CHROMIUM electrodes. They are usually for DC, but you can find it for AC. I have good experience using this method.

Z

Makers_Mark · Apr 18, 2003

Ooo good point. Looks like my decision is made for me. Cut 1" steel and weld in to the angle. No big deal but it is necessary.

Anonymous Poster · Apr 18, 2003

( Having put this rake through the test, the blades do rotate. I'm either going to weld a 1" piece of steel between each tine or weld the tines to the cross member. )

As a metallurgist and AWS Certified welding inspector I would suggest the 1 inch spacers…. Welding the tines on is an invitation for premature failure of the tines. It’s not getting them stuck onto the angle that’s the problem, it is keeping from starting a stress riser that will cause a rapid fatigue failure of the tine at the weld. In Billy’s case where he has bolted the tines on with a single bolt he probably could safely put a tack weld on the end of each tine which would keep it from rotating, and if the weld failed there it would not matter much. He could just keep tacking it back on… Actually I think it might would just work fine.

Dave

Anonymous Poster · Apr 20, 2003

I would think welding them directly will take out the temper & they will no longer 'spring', but just bend where they were heated.

--->Paul

Makers_Mark · Apr 21, 2003

In Billy’s case where he has bolted the tines on with a single bolt he probably could safely put a tack weld on the end of each tine which would keep it from rotating, and if the weld failed there it would not matter much. He could just keep tacking it back on… Actually I think it might would just work fine.
Dave

I attempted to measure and cut 1" strips this weekend when I noticed that the tines did not all measure exactly 1" apart (I need a drill press). Some where off 1/16" or so. My first question this morning was going to be "could I tack the edge to of the tine to keep it fom rotating?" Thanks for answering that.

moeh1 · Apr 21, 2003

Its worth repeating that Agri-supply has the 2 hole versions of the tines available. I used them and got the pleasure of twice as many holes to drill, but they are locked in place. I actually drilled smaller holes, then tapped all of them and used another nut on the top as a lock nut. My buddy who made the same rig drilled his out and just bolted them. He thinks I was a little carried away that week! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Once I got going it wasn't that bad /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif I got my idea from my Rhino back blade user manual. The same manual covers both the back blade and the rake, with the identical 3 pt mount, just different parts diagrams for the blade and the rake. Saved some cad layout etc. we just used our blades as a guide and made the connection point to match what we had. The Rhino manual also showed single bolt tines, but they link multiple tines together with a short tie plate that incorporates spacers in between to prevent rotation. I guess while I'm reading my own words that if your spacing isn't equal, this wouldn't be be all that easy to implement /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif.

Anonymous Poster · Apr 21, 2003

I looked at a rake this weekend. The tines are attached to the crossmember with one bolt each, like yours. Then, about 4" down the tines, there is a strip of metal - estimate about 1/2" wide - running above, and another below, the tines, from one end to the other, parallel to the cross member. In between the tines (which were not drilled), the strips were drilled and bolted togther, acting like a clamp on each tine to stabilize them and keep them from rotating.

My guess is that it's a lot easier to drill the strips than to drill the tines (thinner material and could be carried to a drill press), and possibly that lighter grade nuts and bolts can be used. The whole purpose of the clamping strips is to prevent sideways movement; there shouldn't be a lot of stress on them. I don't know how well it works, but I thought of you when I saw it. You could experiment with some scrap on a few of the tines.

Carl_NH · May 8, 2003

An another way w/o a lot of work is use some 1/4"-3/8" thick rubber belting (or a truck innertube folded) by weaving it between the tines then folding back attaching each end. This would allow flex and keep the tines apart.

Carl

Bob D. · Aug 23, 2024

Very nice job. Could you list the dimensions of the 3 point attachment? I would like to build one for my tractor but I can’t get accurate dimensions with the backhoe on it.

Bob D. · Aug 23, 2024

Very nice job. Could you list the dimensions of the 3 point attachment? I would like to build one for my tractor but I can’t get accurate dimensions with the backhoe on it.