Holz Hausen-Dry Wood In Three Months?

[MossRoad]

I'm on my sixth year of wood burning as the primary source of heat in my house. And I'm on my 5th or 6th Holz Hausen. From experience, I can tell you, it DOES NOT dry the wood any faster, and in fact, it takes longer than single row stacks. Why? Because there is more free airflow around single row stacks. Plain and simple. So why do I use it?
- Its really fast to stack this way.
- I don't have to move the wood as far after I split it.
- I can fit about 6 cords of wood in an area of 78.5 square feet. Stacking 6 cords in traditional 4' high rows takes up at least 192 square feet and even more if you leave space between the 16" stacks, so way less than 1/2 the yard space for the same amount.
- Uses less tarps to cover.
- It looks nice! :laughing:

I find that the bottom layer of wood will be pressed into the dirt. However, I burn primarily locust, which is naturally rot resistant. So, in the spring, I just take that bottom layer, smack the logs together and toss it on the top of next winter's pile. It will be dry in a couple weeks just from the sun, and no worse for the wear.

I did have a problem last winter, and I'm pretty sure its not just Holz Hausen piles... the snow was so deep and blew so hard that it piled up three feet around my Holz Hausen. I did not realize just how deep the snow was until I started getting low on wood. By the time I realized that there was 3' of snow up against the bottom 3' of wood, it was too late. The snow had blown into the first two rows of wood all the way around and then melted and froze several times. The wood was basically a 10' ring of wood ice-cubes 32" thick by 3' tall!!! .... soaked and unusable. I had to dig out the center of my Holz Hausen to get to dry wood and ran out of wood just as winter ended. I will use that wood this year. And plan to tarp it better around the edges this winter.

 

[oldpilgrim]

before I started using this method I stacked it in the conventional 4x4x8 pattern which means it's 3 rows deep. The hausen method does dry it quicker than that method in my estimation.

I find that the bottom layer of wood will be pressed into the dirt.

I set it on pallets.

So why do I use it?
- Its really fast to stack this way.
- I don't have to move the wood as far after I split it.
- I can fit about 6 cords of wood in an area of 78.5 square feet. Stacking 6 cords in traditional 4' high rows takes up at least 192 square feet and even more if you leave space between the 16" stacks, so way less than 1/2 the yard space for the same amount.
- Uses less tarps to cover.
- It looks nice!

I agree completely, lots less work...and looks real nice.

 

[MossRoad]

Here's some pictures of my first one...

Starting ring...

12' post, 2' in ground, mark 2' from top = 8' of wood.

Starting course and center - I no longer stand on end in center.... it sucks water out of the ground into the wood. I now lay down a layer of locust which is rot resistant.

More wood. - I lay them flat now, not on end, and not so neat. I think if you pack it neat like this, there is less room for air circulation. As others have mentioned, I now make two nice horizontal rings on the outside then toss everything else in the center, especially the short and oddball size pieces.

Going up! Note that every couple feet I insert an outer ring so as to re-start the inner-lean of the wood. If you don't do this, it can start to lean out and that = a fallen over pile later in the year. This is very stable! :thumbsup:

All done!

 

[lockhaven]

I find that the wood drys faster, Not wanting to waste any wood I never stack directly on the ground. I use pallets, treated lumber, fence posts or cinder blocks for the base. I stack the wood around the center pole crossing each layer to the top of the pole. This leaves a flue up the center increasing the air flow the remaining center pieces are stacked on end leaning against the flue only the outer ring of logs are laying flat I keep the side vertical till around 6 feet then slowly taper in to about 8 or 9 feet then fast taper into the pole. The last layer is bark slabs placed like wood shingles. I use both round and race track shape piles usually 8 foot diameter. Race tracks are 8 foot diameter ends and what ever length it takes to use the available flat spot. I only use a cover after I start using a pile.

 

[oldpilgrim]

I don't really see the need for the center pole. I never use one.

 

[lockhaven]

some are gifted in keeping things straight and true, I am not so the center pole gives me a stationary reference. The original purpose was a gauge for the dryness of the pile.

 

[grainger12002]

like the stacking choice, I too cut.. then split... then off to the shed, have some pallets and will start a similar stack w next years wood, we burn about 3 cord

From CT

 

[MossRoad]

some are gifted in keeping things straight and true, I am not so the center pole gives me a stationary reference. The original purpose was a gauge for the dryness of the pile.

Also, when tossing in the oddball pieces, the pole is a handy target to aim for! :laughing:

 

[lutt]

I would probly have a mess if I tried this! I like this thread, I'm a bonified wood burning nut! LUTT

 

[GMIslander]

Still with the round configuration, I got about a cord and a half in this bucket.