3-Point Hitch Hitch speed control

[Henhouse1]

I thought there was a lever or knob on the left side of my YM1610D under the seat to control the drop rate of my 3 point hitch. For the life of me, I can't find it and the pictures in my manual are just too dark to see.:drool:

Thanks,
Stan Henley

 

[careyo63]

I believe this is what your refering to. turn it Backward or to the right slows the lowering rate. Not 100% which way is which but you will be able to tell. I do recall when I bought the 2000 I had to turn it to the R. or back to slow it down I believe. But After cleaning the screen and fluid change it runs in the middle now.

 

[Henhouse1]

AaaaaHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaa!!!! I think I've seen the little bugger now. So far, my BB and my tiller are sort of hard to control on the way down and want to drop too quickly which would seem to be a good way to break something. I shall find this puppy and slow it down after work today. BTW. I'm in Palmetto. :0)

Stan Henley

 

[careyo63]

BTW. I'm in Palmetto. :0)

Stan Henley

:laughing: Must be nice your right on top of Spaulding. still worth the drive for me.

 

[Henhouse1]

I bought my tiller from him. Real nice guy! Boy, his 1610s are a lot purdier than mine.

 

[careyo63]

Looks Good to me. Don't matter what it looks like only how it works when you need it :thumbsup:
Not to be Nosey but isn't that a old Fairlane back there? :thumbsup:

 

[Henhouse1]

That's a '65 Galaxie 500 that I picked out new for my Grandmother in 1965 at Courtesy Ford in Montgomery,Al. Unfortunately, it's a 289 4 door granny mobile and I let it sit in the yard for 9 years before putting it in a tent. The body is ruined but the engine and C4 tranny are great. You hear of anyone interested let me know. It's way down my priority list now.

BTW, My older brother, myself, and both of my younger sisters went to our senior proms in this car.

Stan H.

 

[Henhouse1]

Alright, here's a pic of my control lever. It won't move and is rusty. The bracket that it goes through is secured with a 6mm allen screw. I can only assume that this bracket secures the lever from moving. So far I haven't been able to find an allen setup that will clear the seat bracket, so I guess I'll have to remove the seat bracket or grind down an allen wrench to get at the screw. Any additional info would be appreciated.

Stan Henley

 

[Henhouse1]

Alright, here's a pic of my control lever. It won't move and is rusty. The bracket that it goes through is secured with a 6mm allen screw. I can only assume that this bracket secures the lever from moving. So far I haven't been able to find an allen setup that will clear the seat bracket, so I guess I'll have to remove the seat bracket or grind down an allen wrench to get at the screw. Any additional info would be appreciated.

Stan Henley

No takers, huh? ;0):confused2:

 

[YannyMan]

I'd take the entire housing off and get it cleaned up and working correctly, but that's just me..

 

[Gary Sweat]

No takers, huh? ;0):confused2:

If removing the plate doesn't free it up try this.

Spray it with penetrating fluid and LIGHTLY tap the end of the shaft a few times. This will help the penetrating fluid to work its way into the shaft hole. Let it set for a couple of hours and repeat. This time, try moving the arm back and forth while tapping it.

If the shaft has completely fused with the housing you may wind up having to drill it out or maybe it can be driven out from the inside. (Not sure). That usually involves heat from a torch to make it work.

Either way, the valve will likely have to be taken off and and disassembled to free it up if it's stuck really hard.

 

[Henhouse1]

Very good advice to tap the valve. In my line of work as an aircraft Mech, we rarely run into this problem unless it's on a teardown and then we can use any method of destruction if the part is to be replaced, which many are as a matter of time in service. One of the things I've found on this tractoris that there is so often very little room to wrench and bang. Seems like I'm always up against the fenders or loader supports or other structures that limit tool motion. Oh well, welcome me to the world of compact tractors.

BTW, I have a 186 manual and a 226 manual and neither show this setup.

 

[Henhouse1]

I'd take the entire housing off and get it cleaned up and working correctly, but that's just me..

Probably the best idea, so I will probably try a shortcut and break something. Since I am an aircraft mechanic, I know better. But since it's a tractor and not a jet, I will probably ignore all of your good counsels and do something stupid in order to..........wait for it.....................SAVE TIME! hahahahaha!

Stan Henley

 

[Gary Sweat]

Probably the best idea, so I will probably try a shortcut and break something. Since I am an aircraft mechanic, I know better. But since it's a tractor and not a jet, I will probably ignore all of your good counsels and do something stupid in order to..........wait for it.....................SAVE TIME! hahahahaha!

Stan Henley

When I was in the Air Force, I had a 30" flat tip screw driver and a 64oz ball peen hammer. I used the screw driver to pry stuff out of the way so I could smack it with the hammer. Very rewarding