High strength top pin

/ High strength top pin #1  

CTyler

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2002
Messages
1,553
Location
Blair, Ne.
Tractor
L3130
How can you tell if a "High strength top pin" is being used? Does it look different? The pin is gold color with a flat head, no ring or anything to grab onto like the silver one in the 3pt arms.

Heres my problem with the L3130 and Woods 9000 backhoe. I could not get the top pin out. The tension was off the pin and it would move about 1/8" freely. The pin appears to be bent since the head of the pin does not look straight compared to the top link bracket. Could have had the BH off in well under 10 min if this hadn't happened.

I tried tapping on the end with a hammer but there is very little room. So all you can do is gently tap on it. While tapping on it the tapered part of the pin flattened out a little bit, not mushoomed. Lots of four letter words while at the farm. Home is 15 miles away and I had only the most basic of tools. I'll have to see about using a C clamp and a socket or something to press it out.

The BH is only a 3pt setup /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif but Woods will have the subframe mount in a few weeks and the dealer will put it on when it shows up./forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif


I'll be asking the dealer on Monday but thought I'd ask here since I'm full of patience. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
/ High strength top pin #2  
Ctyler
My dealer gave me a set of pins for my <font color="orange">Kubota</font> backhoe. They had a set of chains on them to make sure that the correct pins are used to mount top link of backhoe. I cut the chains off. I took a picture of a TSC and <font color="orange">Kubota</font> pins. I can’t tell if one is stronger than the other just by looking. But dealer said the <font color="orange">Kubota</font> pins were stronger. Top pin in picture is the TSC pin.
 
/ High strength top pin
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks. Mine looks just like the bottom pin but it doesn't have the small hole in it.

Still not sure how I'm going to get it out. I worked on it today in the driveway. With good light I can see the pin is really bent. Thing is I haven't even used the hoe yet. Its bent just from the weight of the hoe.

There isn't enough room to do the C clamp thing either. I tried putting vice grips on the end of the pin and then used a pry bar and its not moving. The vice grips were used to wiggle it while prying.

Unless someone has a suggestion I'll probably have to take off the top link mount.
 
/ High strength top pin #4  
CTyler,

Don't know if I can help, but I've got a Woods 7500 with subframe on my B2910. Even with the subframe, removing that top-link pin is a pain if there is any weight at all on it. I usually have to do some "slight" manipulations to the hydraulics to get things to "just fall apart". Likewise for the sub-frame pins as well.

Is it possible for you to use the boom or dipperstick to "gently" try to take some of the weight off the top link?

If the pin is bent, it's going to be tough even without any weight, but you need to remove the weight to get the pin out.

Good Luck,

~Rick
 
/ High strength top pin
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Hi Rick, its a peice of cake to get the weight of it and the 3pt pins.
I move it about 1/8" freely until the bend in the pin starts to bind.

I compared the pin thats in the top link on my bench to the one on the tractor and they look identical. Me thinks its da wrong pin. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
 
/ High strength top pin #6  
Bummer. Just an idea...I wonder if there is anyway you could "rotate" the pin a bit and somehow let the weight or force of the backhoe "straighten" the pin.

Sounds like a pretty shakey proposition, I know, just the first thing that came to mind. Maybe your dealer will have a quick fix.

Keep us posted.

~Rick
 
/ High strength top pin
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Thanks, yea I thought about that. I did turn the pin and put the wieght on it. Then I raised/dropped the 3pt a couple times. Didn't really bang on it though cause what if it breaks??

Maybe the dealer will come out and take care if it. They have been really good so far. If I have to do it at least the mounting bolts aren't hard to get at.

Luckily I don't need the backhoe until the ground thaws. I'm dyin to do some digging in the mean time. Really could have used the blade and scraper Sat. though.
 
/ High strength top pin #8  
I believe the application here calls for a through hardened pin, not a cold forged pin such as a normal top link pin. The yellow di-chromate finished pins are normally cold forged. The black finish "red head" pins are through hardened.

Of course your immediate problem is how to get the bent pin out. Could you post a pic of the access you have to it? You may be able to slip a hacksaw blade in and cut it into sections instead of driving it out.
 
/ High strength top pin #9  
If the pin is not bent too seriously, I find that using another pin that is slightly smaller, at least on the end and one that is of a length that you can hold it tight against the pin to be removed and at the same time get a good lick with the hammer, will sometimes move the pin without swedging the end, like hitting it with the hammer will.

If this doesn't work, I would consider using a recipricating saw with a metal cutting blade to cut the pin into on either side of the top link.

I don't know, but would think maybe pins come in hardness levels like bolts. I would presume that if pin bent without breaking, it might be a soft pin & therefore would cut fairly easily.

Good luck,
 
/ High strength top pin #10  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( consider using a recipricating saw with a metal cutting blade to cut the pin into on either side of the top link )</font>

Like the IR429 shown toward the bottom of this page? I had it's predecessor, the IR329, which was a very handy tool for lots of jobs. Of course, Snap-on, Blue Point, and Chicago Pneumatic have similar saws. I'm sure other companies do, too, but those are the ones I've used and worked on and know they're all good.
 
/ High strength top pin #11  
<font color="blue"> Luckily I don't need the backhoe until the ground thaws. I'm dyin to do some digging in the mean time. Really could have used the blade and scraper Sat. though. </font>

Ctyler,

I am not sure if your 3ph backhoe is like mine...but...

In my case there are two pins, one the Kubota hoe just hangs over, and the other is the hardened one, probably just like the one you are having trouble with. [my guess is that both of mine are hardened, but I don't know off hand]

That is the pin that holds the backhoe and keeps if from raising up if forces are such that it wanted to raise up while in use.

My backhoe has a safety bar that goes under the lower link arms, that should catch the backhoe if that pin broke and the thing tried to raise up and pin me between the seat and the ROPS.

What I am leading into is that you probably should not use that backhoe if the set up is the same as I described. If you do, and that bent pin should break, you could be putting yourself in a shaky position, to say the least.

There used to be a write up at the Carter Equipment web site that described a fatality that occured when this kind of thing happened.

A thought just in case you might not have thought of this...
 
/ High strength top pin
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Here are some pics. You can't tell anything about the pin but you can see that there isn't any room. If I had a straight shot at it I'd use my air hammer with a punch. That would knock it out in a hearbeat. The only way I could do that is to remove the 3pt hydraulic arm.

The might be enough room to get a saws all in there, it would be tight.

Pic is a drawing from Woods.

Oops.....here is the pic
 

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/ High strength top pin
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#13  
pic...
 

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#14  
pic.
 

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/ High strength top pin
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#15  
You can see in this pic how little room there is.
 

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/ High strength top pin
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#16  
The BH has what called the safety lock that should keep you from getting smooshed. I agree with you and will not use it until this is corrected.

Thanks everyone for your input. It looks like taking the 6 bolts out for the top link bracket is the ticket. Then drive it out with the air hammer.

Thanks
Chris
 
/ High strength top pin
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Update....

I called the dealer and he sid they installed what came with the BH. Then I called Woods. Woods stated that the 9000 BH is NOT designed to be used on the 3pt of the L3130. It is too much weight and thats why the pin bent.

The dealer already has the 4pt(not subframe like I thought) on order from Woods. This is what I wanted in the first place but appearantly it wasn't available or the dealer didn't realize it was.

Bottom line Woods said DON'T use it until the 4pt is installed. Otherwise damage may occur.
 
/ High strength top pin #18  
Why not take the 3 bolts out of toplink and get the hoe out of the way so u can work.
A sawzall will cut thru the pin on both sides of toplink.
 
/ High strength top pin
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Hi, thats pretty close to my plan. Take the bracket off and use my air hammer to drive the pin out. There is actually 6 bolts, 3 on each side. Gotta love air tools /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ High strength top pin
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Well today was a nice day out so I took the bracket off. The air hammer had to work a bit to get the pin out. The pin was starting to shear.
 

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