Henry G-1 Dump Bowl Scraper

[StrmChzr]

Ooops I'll try posting this again..

I just bought a Henry Equipment (Topeka, KS) G-1 Dump-Bowl Scraper at auction. It appears to pivot and rolled on trailer just fine, but doubtful the hydraulic cylinder is operational.

I'm hopeful my JD 955 (33 hp) will be able to pull scraper thru disced up topsoil. My 955 has 3 point and PTO but not hydraulic line coming off the back to articulate the scraper's hydraulics.

Anybody know anything about Henry Equipment, Henry G-1 scraper, or dump bowl scraper's for small tractors? Appreciate any insight.

 

[StrmChzr]

Pretty unique piece of equipment..

 

[DJ54]

I've never heard of one, but looks like a neat little scraper. Hope you have some front ballast, you'll need it.

 

[Piston]

Looks like a good find. It seems fairly narrow so I imagine you won't have a problem pulling it.

Are you going to ad hydraulics to your tractor?

 

[R W]

Hope you will be able to post some photos of it when in operation.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Hope you will be able to post some photos of it when in operation.

Video would be even better!

 

[300UGUY]

Cool unit. Never saw one.

 

[Mace Canute]

It's great to see someone else with an old Henry! :thumbsup: First time I saw one of those was over 55 years ago. A few years ago a buddy and I were at a farm auction and one of those was there but I believe it was a little bigger by the looks of your pics...IIRC it does a 4' cut. I badgered him to buy it (I hadn't signed up for the auction...he had) and we came away with it for the princely sum of $35. I rebuilt the cylinder somewhat, had to make a new piston...the original was cast iron with a leather seal which was pooched so I made one out of aluminium with a single o-ring seal and the brass retainer for the rope packing seal on the piston rod was severely bent from being over tightened in an effort to stop excessive leaking so I made one out of a piece of inch thick steel plate and we used a new rope seal. A couple of new hydraulic lines and a grease job and it was operational. We hooked it behind my John Deere R and moved dirt! Nebraska Tractor Test 406 gives the R a max drawbar pull of 6644 lbs. and my R weighs in at about 8000 lbs. In virgin clay a little too much cut would stop it dead but in disced up topsoil I am confident you will be able to use yours successfully.

 

[kevin37b]

How is that4630 coming along ?

 

[Mace Canute]

It's sitting until nice weather comes along. Too many other things to work on and no need for the 4630 right now.

 

[R W]

In virgin clay a little too much cut would stop it dead .

Try ripping it first.

 

[DJ54]

The topsoil will probably load harder than clay. You will more than likely want it as dry, like when you would plow. Disc it, but you'll have to get just under as deep as you disced to provide crowd to push it in the bowl. Once the sod is off, it will load much easier.

I put the subsoiler on my Super C, and rip about every 2'-3', as deep as it will pull it fairly easy, maybe 12" deep. Breaks the hardpan, but enough resistance to provide the crowd needed to load.

Here's a picture of my old Overland Scraper. It has a 5' cut, and like Mace said, it will stop my Massey 180 in it's tracks, and/or make you be looking up at Jesus (pull the front wheels off the ground..!!) if you take too big of a bite.

 

[StrmChzr]

Correction: JD 955 appears to have a hydraulic valve near the rear PTO. I'm going to try connecting hydraulic hose to the Henry and see what happens....

I've got endless ballast for 955's FEL, so assume I can prevent tractor from popping a wheelie....

 

[DJ54]

If you've never used, or operated a larger scraper, do not take cuts side by side. Make a full pass through on the length of the cut. With this scraper, if 3' wide, I'd guess skip 24"-30", and make another cut. Try to take the same amount depth of cut. Then come back, and pick up that 24" to 30" of material. That keeps the bowl fairly level, and the complete cut across more level. If you cut side by side, with the wheels outside the cut the bowl makes, it will tilt it to one side where you've already made a cut, and cause the cutting edge to gouge in on the lower side.

Depending on how much disked material you have on top, I'm thinking you'll be doing some spinning. Depending on the terrain, you could feather the brake on the spinning side to get an equal pull on the wheels, or, if you have a differential lock, use that. Just be sure and lock it before it spins, or stop to engage. Stomping on the diffy lock when already spinning a wheel can cause damage to the locking mechanism, if you didn't already know that.