Help with Paint Job

[Yanmar_1700]

Thanks again for the information. I will take your advice and get the spray gun and compressor to give it a shot.

What would be the best option for the surface rust?

 

[mark777]

Right ON.
The only trouble I ever had with Omni was color matching and not applicable to tractor painting. Another tuff stuff finish.
Mark

 

[Soundguy]

For surface rust on the cast, I'd get some gloves and a big tub of naval jelly, and sponge it on.. and then when the rust was gone, get it cleaned up and dried.. and then prim asap.

Soundguy

 

[gbirky]

For surface rust, especially on rough surfaces like castings, I clean it up with a wire brush, then apply a rust converter. NAPA sells Extend brand, but Wal-Mart, and most auto parts places like Advance Auto, or Auto-Zone has the same thing. You have to let it dry at least 24 hours, then paint over it. I have had very good luck with this stuff.

 

[jdmar]

Did mine recently with a LOT of help from people here. I will try to find the link to that discussion. I used several different shaped wire wheels on both an angle grinder and drill to clean heavier rust. I also used wire and smaller brass brushes. I also used naval jelly after the heavy stuff was off. Be sure to clean off the naval jelly real well and then DRY IT FAST...use compressed air, hair drier, fan, whatever to get ALL the water off. I then wiped with thinner (reducer) Oops, I should say I cleaned/pressure washed/ oven cleanered(is that a word?), and Simple Greened it all before the rust removal.

Avoid the two part catalyst paints, Mark777 was "dead" on right. I had used them several years (?15+) ago--isocyanate type. One time i had a small odor while painting. I finished and left the booth. About 30-60 minutes later I suddenly could not breath...at all. This was no fun. With cough and a Heimlich from family I coughed up what was gross but was essentially a "mucous plug" of a mainstem bronchus. The paints caused local inflamation and **** near killed me...no joke. It was and still is memorable. I have NEVER used those since. Yes my mistake was a respirator leak...but that small mstake was nearly my last. TSC paint is good for me!

Good luck...and sorry about the disgusting story. I just don't want someone hurt.
Painting link

Peter

 

[gbirky]

Jdmar,
DON'T APPOLOGIZE! This is exactly the kind of thing we NEED to hear. I am certainly glad you lived to tell us about it. Having a nicely painted tractor (or anything else) is certainly not worth risking your life.

 

[F15DOWNER]

I was not aware that it was that nasty. The guy at the paint shop told me to make sure I had a good respirator, but said nothing about all the stuff that you guy's are talking about. I don't have a paint booth but I use an industrial fan and paint with my back to it outside, maybe that how I got away with it.
The moral to the story is: I will never recommend it again.
If you go to Dupont's site and search for Imron, it says that a MSDS doesn't exist???? I will have to get one from the paint shop.
Too bad it's that nasty, it sure gives you a nice and durable finish!
Tom

 

[86turbodsl]

Isocyanates = fresh air supplied respirator. The cans on the face mask will not cut it. I built a homemade air respirator out of an old face mask and a bathroom fan. Found a link for it on the net, it works good. I painted a fair bit of tractor parts with isocyanate paint with absolutely no odors and no sickness. Never smelled a thing the whole time I was painting. Be carefull! You only get one set of lungs.

 

[mark777]

Great information here - from shared experiences, collective knowledge and well informed painters tech's and tractor guys. Very little has changed in the application process but so much in chemistry, personal protective equipment (PPE), and known long term effects.
IMHO: It would take hours.....maybe days to collect this information outside of the TBN website. And I am always impressed with how caring members impart their knowledge.

 

[Soundguy]

I've got a question on respirators.

We have a hvlp paint system at work, and stock a few cartridges for the respirators. I've also looke din the book specifically for elements for the isocyan-type chemicals.. and while I see a few cartridges that specifically say they don't cover them, I see a few that make blanked references.. I'll include the following filtered chemicals, and perhaps some chemists or chem-eng's can comment on the suitability of these elements.. etc.

organic vapors, chlorine, hydrogen flouride, sulfur dioxide, hydrogen chloride, amonia, methylamine, mercury vapor, chlorine dioxide, hydrogen sulfide, ( escape only ), formaldehyde, oils , organic and particulate aerosals, welding fumes, dusts, mists, pesticides, paints, lacquers and enamils.. Asbestos.. and even radon daughters, and radionnuclides...with a hepa and some other type of prefilter combination...using a GME/MSA super cartridge.. I see another filter that is for organics, and paints enamils, lacq's, but not urethanes, and diisocyanate's

Comments? Would that first cartridge work for those nasty two part paints? it doesn't specifically specify it.. but i see others that specifically say not to use it for them.. etc.

Soundguy