Help w/ JD Sabre S1642

[dmk]

I have an older Sabre S1642, that won't start reliably. I have had the battery checked, and used the test light. Power seems to be getting to the post on the starter. The post seems a bit loose. I am fairly sure the problem is the starter, it doesn't want to turn, even using a jumper straight from the battery.

Is there anything else to check, or do? Could the starter be stuck? Can one be rebuilt?

The part # is AM132235 and it runs 162.18, hate to spend that. Is there some other option? I can't find a part that will cross reference to it.

Sorry for so many questions, just at a bit of a loss right now.

Thank you

 

[bruiserx2]

You can take the starter out and bring it to the shop/dealer. They can test it there. If it does not need to be replace then just put it back in. Yes they can be rebuilt but usually that is what the core deposit is for.

 

[jhwentworth]

I see the AM132235 part number as going on an L110 tractor.

Your 1642 calls for an LG693551 or SE501848 (remanufactured) according to John Deere - Parts Catalog

 

[RandyT]

Something u may want to try, run a jumper wire from the negative post of the battery to a wire brushed area on the starter case, or if you have a vom meter check the voltage from the starter case to the negative terminal on the battery will trying to crank the engine. a voltage reading will tell you how much voltage is not going through the ground wire back to the battery. if you get a reading above about 2 volts try cleaning the starter mounting bolts, the ground wire mounting bolt either on the engine or the mower frame. Kohler engines can be ground wire sensitive. You could have a bad starter but check the grounds first and if it doesn't help then replace the starter with a new one not a reman one. I have people looking for starters for briggs and wont by a new one so they have it rebuild and within 90 days they come back for a new starter because the reman failed.

PS the kohler 12 098 22-S starter for your mower is 160.23

 

[dmk]

JHWentworth. This is interesting, the manual I found, using Scott's mowers (suggested by JD customer svc.) is different. I do know that I have a plastic gear on mine, think the ring gear on mower is aluminum (silver, not sure what metal).

I could have sworn I had 16 tooth, but could be wrong. I'll definitely check it out. This would be a much better/cheaper option.

RandyT, I'll also check the mounting areas, and the meter.

Thank y'all for all of the help.

 

[RandyT]

the am132235 is for the kohler cv16s among others for the s1642. the lg693551 for the briggs engines on the s1742

 

[RandyT]

the lg693551 is the same as the briggs 693551 with steel gear 119.00 if you have the plastic gear try 497595 for 74.95

 

[dmk]

RandyT: The 497595 part looks like it, at least on ebay. I'll pull mine and do some measuring. If size & # of teeth are the same, is there anything else I need to check? I am so confused on why I even got different part #'s from the JD place.

 

[RandyT]

the 2678 sabre 1642hs single cylinder calls for the 497595 starter, the 2738 scotts s1642 calls for the kohler starter, the 9096 1642hs sabre calls for the 693551 briggs starter. and my customers wonder why i have to have model and serial for equipment and model type and code for briggs engines, and model spec for kohler, and every number they can find on the engine for honda engines. from your description of the problem i would say you have a bad starter.

 

[dmk]

RandyT. I'll look at it tonight. If it is the 497595, it will save me a ton.

Where will I find the model # on the tractor, or can I tell by engine model #? One other problem w/ part #'s is that I don't think this is the original engine. The guy that GAVE me the mower a few years ago, I believe had replaced the engine.

Thanks again for all of the help. Glad I posted here, hadn't been to the site in a while.

 

[RandyT]

i was wondering if the engine had been changed. if you get the model and type number off of the engine you can go to ordertree.com and look up part numbers for the engine. for that reason when i need parts for any equipment that i repair for the customer i always order parts for the part of the equipment that I am working on. for example a poulan pro rider, if i file a warranty claim the engine is warrantied through the engine manufacturer, the transmission is warrantied through the transmission manufacturer, and the rest if through poulan. that is three different possible manufacturer claims one lawnmower.

 

[dmk]

RandyT-Thanks again for the info, and the link to ordertree.

 

[shot_gun]

If it has the briggs engine do the valve adjustment first. 9 times out of ten that will fix it along as the starter hasn't been destroyed in the process.

 

[dmk]

I have a feeling that the valve adjustment may be over my head. But out of curiousity, how do you do it?

 

[RandyT]

usually if the valves on the engine are out of adjustment it will try to turn the engine but will kick back the flywheel when it fires. the valve adjustments are .004 for intake which is the bottom valve and .004-.006 for the exhaust. loosen the lock nuts on the rocker studs which is 10mm and then back off the torks screw in the lock nut and adjust the valve clearance with the lock nut and then tighten the torks screw to lock it down but i think the torque on the screw is 100 in/lb (not 100% sure)do not exceed or it will crack the lock nut.

 

[dmk]

Ok, I got the starter on, but now have a new problem. The starter will spin the engine 1 time, but that's it. I replaced the plug, but am 90% sure that the problem is that it's flooding. I can actually hear the fuel pumping when I try to crank it. After a minute or 2 the starter will try again, guess that is after it drains back out.

How hard is it to rebuild the carb? About how much would it cost to have it done at a shop?

As always, any advice is appreciated.

 

[jhwentworth]

Ok, I got the starter on, but now have a new problem. The starter will spin the engine 1 time, but that's it. I replaced the plug, but am 90% sure that the problem is that it's flooding. I can actually hear the fuel pumping when I try to crank it. After a minute or 2 the starter will try again, guess that is after it drains back out.

How hard is it to rebuild the carb? About how much would it cost to have it done at a shop?

As always, any advice is appreciated.

I think it''s time to sit down and think about what's happening here. You don't seem to have a handle on what the problem symptoms are. You can swap parts for a very long time without fixing your problem.

With the spark plug removed does the starter spin the motor at a high rate? Have you checked the compression? The carb needle should shut off the fuel when the bowl is full, regardless of the sound of pumping. The folks that told you about valve adjustments on Briggs OHV engines weren't kidding; when the valves are out the motor bites on the starter, and in a pull-start it will peel the hide off your fingers.

I guess what I'm saying is that you have to identify the problem before swapping parts or getting the carb rebuilt. If it isn't clear to you it might be cheaper to go to a repair shop and have them identify the problem.

 

[dmk]

I hadn't gotten back to this. Old starter was junked. After putting the new one on, I am 99% certain that the carb is the new problem. Pulled the plug and gas poured out. I have a call into a shop, he said he'd take a look at it and see.

Looked online at rebuilding the carb, didn't look too hard, but I chickened out.

Anything else to check, or try before I haul it in. I may decide to check the carb float, but it would be a first for me.

Put this project on hold, as I bought two other projects. A small rear engine that I'll refurb for my dad. Great deal, replaced a pully, jumped it off and it mowed the yard. I'll "test" it a few more times before I pass it on.

Also got a Cub 1330, deck is shot, may rebuild it, but may become another project. I have a post on that in the Build it Yourself Forum.

Thanks for all of the advice, I love the forum.

 

[dmk]

Ok guys, guess I should have listened to y'all earlier on the valve advice. At least I didn't bother w/ the carb. I messed w/ it today, set the valves, and it fired right up. Of course, as with most things I do, once I shut it down, it wouldn't start up again. Still the same, hanging up. Guess I am at a loss, it will go into the shop this week, unless there is any other advice.

Oh, to answer the questions earlier, spins great w/ no plug in.

 

[dmk]

Ok, so I have to say it again. The valves were the problem. I had it checked out, the mechanic said the valves were good after I fixed them.

Problem with it not wanting to start the 2nd. time was a bad battery. It would show charged on my charger, but wasn't really. Mechanic hooked it to a big charger and it took right off.

Got to mow last night, and it was great. Thanks again.