Help Sizing Tractor

[todd92]

I will be moving to a 37 acre property shortly. There are two old tractors there that I want to replace with one. A IH Farmall H and an IH Hydro 84. The Hydro 84 was used for hay at one time, I won't be doing any row crops or hay. I have pastures and an orchard to mow with a 6 ft rotary cutter rated at 35 HP min. An FMC sprayer for the orchard. I plan on getting a tractor with a loader, open cab, low exhaust for the orchards.

The one new task will be maintaining the new MX track. I'm renting a D5 and a big loader to build it. The tractor will be for maintaining it. So I will be getting a 6 ft box blade.

I think I've narrowed my search to 55-75 HP 4WD, power shuttle or hydro. I want to keep it a small as possible, yet big enough to do the job without overloading it.

Am I in the ballpark? Should I be looking at the smallest utility frame size, or the next larger? I'm looking at used, less than 10 years old less than 1000 hours, preferably less than 500. Not exactly a ton of units that meet my criteria out there. Or maybe something like a Mahindra 5555 new, if that's big enough.

Thanks for any help! I have owned a 2005 MF 2310 TLB since new and it's been bulletproof.

 

[flusher]

My 2008 Mahindra 5525 (55 hp engine, 45 hp pto) is about the same size and weight as that 5555 except that the 5525 is 2WD with an 8F/2R gear tranny that's partially synchronized. Owned that 5525 for 6 years with no problems.

Good luck

 

[bigbull338]

well a 7060 kubota will fit your needs.

 

[4570Man]

A Kubota M59 would suit your purpose, but might be overkill.

 

[newbury]

I will be moving to a 37 acre property shortly. There are two old tractors there that I want to replace with one. A IH Farmall H and an IH Hydro 84. The Hydro 84 was used for hay at one time, I won't be doing any row crops or hay.

If the older tractors run keep them until they die. It's real handy to have a good sized tractor to pull out your stuck tractor.

I have pastures and an orchard to mow with a 6 ft rotary cutter rated at 35 HP min. An FMC sprayer for the orchard. I plan on getting a tractor with a loader, open cab, low exhaust for the orchards.

The one new task will be maintaining the new MX track. I'm renting a D5 and a big loader to build it. The tractor will be for maintaining it. So I will be getting a 6 ft box blade.

I think I've narrowed my search to 55-75 HP 4WD, power shuttle or hydro. I want to keep it a small as possible, yet big enough to do the job without overloading it.

Am I in the ballpark? Should I be looking at the smallest utility frame size, or the next larger? I'm looking at used, less than 10 years old less than 1000 hours, preferably less than 500. Not exactly a ton of units that meet my criteria out there. Or maybe something like a Mahindra 5555 new, if that's big enough.

That certainly should do the job. It looks like new list price w/ FEL is about $38K, is that your price range? With implements?
Be sure to get remotes and probably loaded tires.

 

[todd92]

I don't have a budget per se, but I've found buying lightly used anything is much cheaper in the long run than new. For instance, the best fit used tractor I've found is a 2010 MF 1560 with 500 hours offered at 22.9. IF it is big enough to handle my requirements, it might be the one. Is it big enough?

Yes, the Mahindra 5555 or an LS XU5065 list in the upper 30's, but they can be had for just over 30. Still a big delta over lightly used, but they do come with 5 year warranties. Not sure how useful that is, what really breaks on a tractor, they're so simple, plus the dealer networks on those brands are thin, so service might be a ride, negating the value of the warranty.

Then there is the whole Tier 4 nonsense, I foresee nothing but headaches with DPF's on tractors. This is something that you might HAVE to have a warranty on. So expensive to replace. Even more incentive to buy used.

I said I have the implements I need, just adding a 6ft box blade, which is cheap.

I don't see getting stuck, there isn't anything I would be doing in ground that soft. If I do get stuck, my neighbor, who is a real farmer, has several huge tractors, so he could save the day. That being said, no one has ever gotten stuck on our property. Since the old tractors are rusting and leaking, I would just sell them for whatever I can get. I take care of everything I own, so they just aren't for me. Though I could see getting a restored Farmall H as decoration...they're cheap.

Sorry for my ignorance, but what are remotes, and why do I need them? Loaded tires I understand.

 

[fishheadbob]

I normally could care less about cabs on tractors and would agree with your decision to skip one until I saw the FMC sprayer for your orchard. There are lots of vineyards and orchards around here; those guys always seem to have cabs due to the high amount of gunk they spray to keep their fruits marketable, and the chemicals off themselves. There can be a lot of fine misting drift on even the calmest mornings.
Orchard/vineyard tractors tend to be 60 horse and up and have the letter N around the model number with Deere and New Holland being the major players. Narrow tractors aren't always loader compatible.
Remotes are remote outlets to power hydraulic cylinders on equipment other than your tractor. Handy to have, expensive to add.

 

[todd92]

Orchard spraying isn't the primary function. The trees aren't tightly spaced and for now much of it will need to be replanted. I think the cab will be a pain and severely limit clearance.

I will have to check the sprayer model and confirm the HP requirement. As for the chemicals...if I'm spraying, I'll wear a respirator. My father-in-law and the old hands don't seem to worry about it all. I hand them MSDS's, they just shrug their shoulders and say so what. At least they don't smoke.

I see the narrow tractors and I rule them out, I would think wider is better, especially for grooming the MX track, which is on a moderate slope.

Assuming the sprayer HP requirement is not a factor, would the MF 1560 be big enough?

I'm dense, what implement will I need someday that requires a remote that I don't have now?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Orchard spraying isn't the primary function. The trees aren't tightly spaced and for now much of it will need to be replanted. I think the cab will be a pain and severely limit clearance.

I will have to check the sprayer model and confirm the HP requirement. As for the chemicals...if I'm spraying, I'll wear a respirator. My father-in-law and the old hands don't seem to worry about it all. I hand them MSDS's, they just shrug their shoulders and say so what. At least they don't smoke.

I see the narrow tractors and I rule them out, I would think wider is better, especially for grooming the MX track, which is on a moderate slope.

Assuming the sprayer HP requirement is not a factor, would the MF 1560 be big enough?

I'm dense, what implement will I need someday that requires a remote that I don't have now?

For that cheap 6 foot box blade that you are going to get.

If you are working an MX track, I highly recommend a top & tilt set for the 3pt hitch. So now you are up to 3 rear remotes.

 

[todd92]

Thank you for the explanation. The hydro top link is a must, the hydro scarifier would be cool, but not required. Not sure why I would need the side link?

 

[jenkinsph]

Just a thought but you might want to measure to see how much height clearance will work for your orchard and storage. Most tractor rops are the same height as a cab tractor. Lots of cab tractors today fit under 8' in the 40 to 60 hp range so worth considering.

Top link and tilt links are both useful and make it easier to use a box blade for grading. If buying a tractor I recommend you get both so make sure you have enough remotes.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thank you for the explanation. The hydro top link is a must, the hydro scarifier would be cool, but not required. Not sure why I would need the side link?

Is this MX track flat?? No curves or banks? Otherwise you would be able to make good use of a hydraulic side link.

Just my :2cents:

 

[todd92]

You guys are a great help...the MF 1560 I thought would work has no remotes. Still searching.

I definitely do not want a cab.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You guys are a great help...the MF 1560 I thought would work has no remotes. Still searching.

I definitely do not want a cab.

The remotes can be added later, they do not have to be put on at the factory.

 

[todd92]

I've narrowed the search to 55-60 HP tractors with HST. I narrowed the search to (in no particular order), MF 1758, JD 4066R, Mahindra 2555, Kubota L6060, LS XR4155 and Kioti NX6010. I ruled out the JD and Kubota pretty quickly due to the utterly ridiculous price premium. The MF and Mahindra are surprisingly hard to find. and are slightly more expensive. The LS is vaporware right now, I suppose they are sitting in a warehouse waiting for the XR4000 series inventory to be depleted? So I've pretty much decided on the NX6010. My journey sounds exactly like a certain prolific TBN poster's, but I've done all of it so far from behind a keyboard, thanks to all of the reviews here.

Today I'm off to our club MX track, where I'll try the MF shuttle shift tractor to see if I absolutely want/need HST. I'm mostly set on it, but why not try one with gears on an actual MX track?

The last decision is cab/open. I was certain I didn't want a cab, but after reading all of your comments I think I actually do want one. No woods work for me, so the only concern was the orchard, in particular mowing under the branches. I've decided to get a zero turn mower to zip around the trees with (and mow the house yard and the fencelines). Any recommendation on ZTR's for rough terrain (ZTR's I'm finding to be a much bigger can of worms than tractors)?

 

[gladehound]

Today I'm off to our club MX track, where I'll try the MF shuttle shift tractor to see if I absolutely want/need HST. I'm mostly set on it, but why not try one with gears on an actual MX track?

I've decided to get a zero turn mower to zip around the trees with (and mow the house yard and the fencelines). Any recommendation on ZTR's for rough terrain (ZTR's I'm finding to be a much bigger can of worms than tractors)?

I have a hydraulic shuttle tractor that I used for grading and loader work. It works fine for the most part however, there is one problem. The hydraulic shuttle lever is on the left side of the steering wheel. The auxiliary hydraulic controls are on the right side of the seat. If I'm turned to the right I can easily watch the blade and work the auxiliary hydraulics but it is hard to reach the shuttle lever. It would be nicer if all the controls were on the same side. It's a minor thing but something to think about when you're testing out that MF.

Regarding zero turns... since there is no budget per se, and you seem to gravitate to value. I would suggest just about any lightly used commercial zero turn with a deck size that is appropriate for your property. Avoid, the box store ZTR's as they are built much lighter and don't last with heavy use (I learned the hard way)

 

[todd92]

I wasn't going near a box store mower. Lightly used commercial mower, isn't that an oxymoron?

 

[gladehound]

I wasn't going near a box store mower. Lightly used commercial mower, isn't that an oxymoron?

I found a 2010 Exmark Lazer Z (5 years old with 400 hours) at an estate sale. It had been used by an elderly gentleman to mow his 5 residential acres. It had some paint chips and didn't even have rust on the bare metal - so it must have been stored very dry. This mower cost ~$9000 new. I bought it for $4500. So I guess I should have said, find a used commercial mower that has not been used commercially. They are out there and the one I bought was not the only one I found in my search.

 

[boggen]

would also suggest a cab, mainly due the MFC sprayer, will leave other doings of having a cab out. and just say i am pushing for cab for ya.

you never say type of orchard / overall acreage of orchard, along with size of pasture.

i am going to assume either rock or dirt roads going through property to some extent that will be need to be maintained.

the MX track most likely going to get ugly, and with above road/s mention a TNT (top n tilt) for 3pt hitch most likely wanted to obtain a much better finish and get it done quicker.

any sort of hydraulic or like transmission, were you can have nice smooth selection of ground speed.

i would push for "shuttle shift" i am guessing there is going to be a lot of "forward / reverse" going on. and having a little lever up by the steering wheel to quickly select direction would most likely help long term in time.

your going to be see lots of mud. so 4x4 or MFWD or like doing.

never built anything like a MX track, and i am wondering if a 4in1 bucket for the FEL (Front end loader) might be a better idea. "being able to flip bucket portion up. and have access to a push blade might be beneficial.

perhaps pallet forks for FEL, to deal with putting pallet on and a box. to load it up with stuff from ocrhoard, or any other stuff that might be brought in with a truck / trailer.

general duty bucket on FEL (front end loader), getting some "hooks" 2 to 3 across top of it welded on or bolted on. (prefer welded myself)

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overall HP of tractor and then PTO HP. most likely the sprayer going to determine things, maybe lift for forks on FEL for overall lift capacity.

little brain storming see if anything strikes ya as maybe needing...
is there any sort of "tree shaker" to drop fruit from say apple trees or like? maybe needing a higher HP.

no field work, no bailing of hay / straw, no big need for a larger bat wing rotary cutter, no manure spreader, no dealing with larger round bails and stacking them. no real need for a large 3pt tiller. your not dealing with any sort of grain or like.

tree transplanting machine if tree type orchard. ((search google /youtube, pretty small non HP needed thing))

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if tree type orchard, perhaps a backhoe or mini excavator. with notation of MX tract. and getting "compacted" dirt at the higher end of hills. the question comes of how are you going to get any sort of reach and/or drive tractor up hills / bumps to get compaction. a backhoe might be worth while for the MX track, and then digging out old tree stumps.
--if expecting high use of backhoe. might push you towards a tractor that you can pull a lever on seat and do 180 degree turn and operate backhoe. assumption would be 3pt hitch backhoe with subframe.
--if expecting very little use. then just a 3pt hitch backhoe with subframe. and just hope from tractor seat to backhoe seat the rare times it is needed. the limited amount you might need it.

you may get a bigger price discount getting a tractor with FEL and backhoe all in one purchase. either buying new and even used setups. FEL and backhoe tend to be high dollar items compared to most other things. and tend to be a bit more tractor specific. make/model things. so getting together tends to drop price some.

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ya most likely going to see a large amount of 3pt hitch attachments. from compaction to different grading stuff. might suggest some sort of quick hitch or like. ((TIP: you may need to physical modify some 3pt hitch attachments to fit a quick hitch, it is just one of them things))
--exception might suggest by-passing quick hitch, and connect a rotatory cutter (lamen term bush hog) due to weight and how far they stick out behind tractor.

going to push for possible "bolt on tooth bar" for FEL (front end loader) with general duty bucket. i say bolt on. due to it can be rather nice to back drag with regular straight edge bucket. tooth bar is primary to make it easier to dig with FEL. this is push towards MX track. and needing to move lots of dirt around. and needing to dig dirt from some place.

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going to push for high up above "work lights" front and rear. a cab normally comes with these. if open station or sun shade. they might be optional. (can be had for 3rd party more so 3rd party LED kits, search TBN some might bright LED setups out there) it is just one of them things those high up work likes come in handy!

rear remotes (hyd hook ups) a TNT requires 2 hook ups, then one more for a total of 3 rear remotes. some were along the line some 3pt hitch stuff needs a min of 1 hyd hook up. if something needs more than 1 hyd, grab it from TNT temporarily.
--to note it, a side link. only adjusts the one side link, i don't really remember that many folks going for top link plus double side links. most of the road maintenance and various 3pt hitch stuff, the amount that is adjusted by a single side link is enough adjust to satisfy them. you would need a good amount of twists and turns. to justify top link plus 2 side link hyd cylinders. with MX track pending on how crazy it is with curves and side banks, it might be something to consider. and pushing you up to 4 rear hyd remotes.

going to assume R1 / agriculture tires tires will be prefer choice of tires over R3 / turf tires or R4 / industrial tires. so you can keep going through mud. granted you will leave ruts. but you will keep on going for most part.

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about only thing else that i can think of that might come up. is PTO either a 540 or 1000 RPM setup. and that is for the MFC sprayer. granted most things out there getting up there in HP offer either a 540 or 1000 rpm option. and just needing to buy / select correct option.

i want to say mirhanda, has a reversible PTO option. "spins in opposite direction lever" option. it has been to long to remember. if not it is one of the "red tractors" that might offer this option.

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open station tractors tend to lend them selves to having more options for "racks" to mount tools to tool boxes. due to no windows to worry about and a nice tall ROPS. cabs can get little cramped, for finding space to mount stuff. ((having some bailing wire, some channel locks, some wire snippers, a hammer, and some bolt / pins, can come in handy. when something breaks down. vs walking back to the shed, along with place for a shovel or rake or broom, chains or what not))

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3pt hitch most tractors come with extreme basics, make sure ya get the extra check chains / sway chains / stay straps for 3pt hitch. you will most likely need them. so you do not destroy the 3pt hitch or break something on rear of tractor.

double check to see if you get a swinging draw bar. vs a straight flat bar that just goes straight back (one end attaches below the PTO shaft on back of tractor) plus draw bar that connects between the lower 3pt hitch arms. you will most likely end up with something that is pulled behind tractor. and swinging draw bar should help you adjust it from center to left/right behind tractor. thinking more along the lines of "lawn roller" but for the MX track for compaction of dirt possibly and swinging it off to one side a little more. to get it further off to one side of the tractor.

 

[boggen]

sorry for long post above.

for mower zero turn may be a good option for ya. for total amount of grass you will need to be kept mowed. was just going to toss in, a tow behind finishing mower for say a 4 wheel / UTV / ATV. most of them pull behinds, have a offset. so you can swing them out pretty far. and might help get up and under orchard trees, if you do not keep branches cut up higher. you might be able to weld a small little setup on back of a zero turn if nothing there. for such a pull behind mower.

there are some "fence line" mowers. that move back and forth automatically as you come up to a fence post. not sure if they would be worth while for ochard setup or not. (out of my experience) the ones i have seen are all 3pt hitch setups.