Help rebuilding cylinder

[westbrooklawn]

I have a log splitter which I built 25+ years ago. It has a 4x24x2 tie rod cylinder manufactured by Energy Manufacturing. It has been dripping around the wiper for the last year or so, but has started to leak really bad in the last few weeks. Energy manufacturing didn't have a seal kit listed for this cylinder (too old), but they are sending me a seal kit which they say will work.

I've never rebuilt a cylider before, and I'm looking for any tips or tricks that might make this go well. I feel I have above average mechanical skills, and it doesn't appear to be too complicated, but I was wondering if I needed any special tools, or if there were things I should do to make sure I don't damage the new seals during installation, etc.

 

[teg]

Check this post.... although, not the same make.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...building-hydraulic-cylinders.html#post2221331

 

[jlsmith]

Post a pic of your cylinder. They make several diff styles, it would help to see which one you have.

 

[wdchyd]

Energy Cylinders use very common cyl seals.......take apart and go visit your local Hyd Shop with seals, gland and head in hand.....

Shouldn't be anymore than $20 or so.....PM me if any troubles...

 

[westbrooklawn]

I will try to post pics later today. The seal kit is already on its way... should be delivered tomorrow. I've broken the cylinder down... the problem I am having now is removing the rod nut. It is 1 1/2", and I don't have any impact sockets that big. It is going to take an impact wrench, I can't budge it with a large adjustable wrench and pipe. It appears the nut is some type of locking nut based on the grooves in the end of the nut. Any ideas on how to break that nut loose without a 1 1/2" socket? I've got the rod held in a vise with a piece of towel and cardboard wrapped around the rod to protect it from vice marks.

 

[westbrooklawn]

Here are some pics of the cylinder rod with end plate and original seals. The main problem I am having now is trying to get the rod nut off.

 

[kennyd]

The main problem I am having now is trying to get the rod nut off.

They are usually TIGHT! One suggestion is to mount the rod back on the splitter to help anchor it while you use a large wrench and probably a piece of help to help.

 

[Craig Clayton]

The black end mount to something that will not move and lay the rod across some timbers and only push down. Use a large quality adjustable wrench with 3' of pipe.That should give you 300 LBS foot of torque. If you work close to the floor you should not damage the project or yourself. If there are any small scratches on the rod you can smooth them down with your FINEST wet sand paper 1000 grit just do not go through the chrome.
Craig Clayton

 

[wdchyd]

Westbrook,

Sometimes you can chuck up the clevis head and either the head or nut will loosen first.....not necessary to replace the oring under piston in a log splitter.....then you can repack rod gland and slide back on....

If not, You'll need two aluminum sheet metal strips and the biggest largest honkinest vise you can find.....snug the chrome in the vise (very very snug) with the alum protecting the rod.....use big socket with breaker bar, add torque with a cheater pipe and WHACK it loose.....

Whatever you do, don't mark the chrome rod...it'll come back to haunt you....

 

[PILOON]

Yes aluminum is great to protect the chrome rod.
I also have had success using heavy leather and have been known to use brass flat stack as well.
In other words, the clamping material MUST be softer than the rod.

Since the nut is not in contact or in danger of damaging the cylinder walls you can also pursuade it to start using the old hammer and cold chisel method.