Help! My front yard is kicking my butt! Bushhogging uphill

[FTG-05]

I look at the pictures and I'm pretty sure my BX2350 with just the midmount mower would cut that hill pretty easy up or down with out losing traction. The problem is you have enough acres that would take a long time and since its a finish mower you would have to cut it every couple of weeks. Probably not a better solution than what you are doing now.

I have no disagreement with your assessment except to say that I don't believe this problem I have requires new equipment and/or big $$$ to fix. Your input says to me that it's the way the equipment is used that's key. In other words, if BX can make it, why not a L4330?

But tomorrow will be a big bushhogging day, so stand by for updates!

Thanks!

 

[k0ua]

Sounds to me like you pretty well have it whipped.. Let us know.

 

[TripleR]

See if this helps

 

[k0ua]

See if this helps

While that is a nice photo, it is not nearly as interesting as the tractor hanging upside down off of the hillside of the original.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I'm slowly getting over the low tire pressure issue. thanks much to those here! Look at the pics I posted above, not much difference between 18 and 12 psi.

If you look at the above "after" pics, I'm not so sure I shouldn't go down to 10 psi.

Having said that, I've made a couple trips up and down, down to drag cedar trees to the bottom so I could debranch them, then up hill dragging the log uphill. Never a hint of slipping, so I think I'm getting this dialed in. Low pressure on the rears plus weight in the FEL is the winning combination along with "heavy down, light up" BHing.

And, by the by, that cedar that tried to kill me may have won the battle, but it lost the war: It's now in my log pile for future use as a wood shed pole/column support. Ha!

I would consider 10 psi a minimum safe pressure for rears. Are you able to get air only when you bleed pressure. If so you are at least marginally lo on fluid. This would be good because some extra weight on those wheels would be like free money. Jack the tractor up and bleed the tires lo and add a few gallons and recheck pressure. Continue til you cant bleed pure air and the pressure is right. Heavier and softer. -- Free money.
larry

 

[the old grind]

I like what Larry said a few pages back! This isn't what I'd call 'mowing' in any typical sense ("hoggin'!") and not what the OP will be doing over and over, unless it'll be just once a year or something. He hasn't been there a whole year yet, and isn't this is a 'catch-up' vs a repetitive task situation?

Jacking tire pressure up or down is often necessary on a 'per job basis', as would be tire chains (buy, use, re-sell, etc), or adding weight to the FEL. Quick & non-permanent, and it seems he's getting some details sorted out already. :applause: If a dry spell hits Tenn & lasts for long it might only make things easier.

Crazy cool thread guys,(!) and awesome info that we all can look back on someday. btw, among our guy's other obvious strengths is choosing a d__ appropriate title to search for. :thumbsup: Everything I thought of has been mentioned (silly me, I read a whole durn thread again ) but thanks to all for a great 'read' & a great 'ride' (I needed that..) and good luck to FTG-05. :drink: Can't wait to hear more ...

 

[wmonroe]

The duals are not an aftermarket option from Deere or anybody else for that matter. I was given an opportunity two years ago to mow approximately 10 miles of irrigation ditch for the local irrigation district. I wanted to do the job because it was good money and I could save them money over using their own equipment. So I bought a matching set of tires on ebay and made my own duals. I seriously doubt that John Deere would recommend duals on my tractor but I can't say for sure as I never asked them. I looked at the job I had to do and the weight that I planned on carrying and the diameter of the axles and said I can make this work. I believe recommended tire pressure is around 16 lbs. I run at about 10 on the insides and 8 on the outsides just so that there is some give somewhere. If you want I can post pictures of what I did along with an explanation and what I would change if I was to do it again. Also the front tires aren't a John Deere option either. The tractor came with 27x8.50x15 tires. I bought rims from John Deere and made them an inch wider and installed 26x12x12 tires.

Very interesting. Thanks for the info, it looks like it is working very well.

 

[dodge man]

Weight is a funny thing, it presses the tires down for more traction but also makes for more weight to haul up the hill. I can't tell you what is the point where more weight hurts.

 

[SPYDERLK]

As long as its on the driving wheels and the ground is firm weight helps up to the point where you get full tread contact. Tracks OK. Ruts not.
... Also a key factor is that the proportion of weight represented by the towed/unborne load decreases.

 

[dodge man]

I have a question. It doesn't really address the issue at hand since the OP is going to stick with his current rig, which is what I would do also. Would his L with a mid mount mower and no end loader climb the hill easier? My gut reaction is yes but I don't know. This would make a great solution but then he is stuck finish mowing it which would end up taking a lot more mowings.