Snow Help me ballast my 2210 for snow work

[Zephrant]

Nope, not a single manual even though I asked. I've found them on line of course, and read the entire thing, but the ballasting section did not sink in until I got tippy.

I hear you on the filled tires not being removable- I was figuring that it was a cheap way to add weight is all. I'd like to be ballasted without the blade as I can't even turn around on my road without burying the blade in a berm right now. I guess I could always pick up a ballast box if I take off the blade, so maybe that's a better option for me.

No tool box or storage of any kind is annoying too- I've got to work on that problem soon.

 

[Zephrant]

Anyone know what the max oil pressure on a 2210 would be? I'd like to add some gauges, when I can figure out how to mount them without it looking bad.

I may build a pod for just in front of the steering wheel. I'd like an Amp meter, volt meter, oil pressure and water temp at least. Maybe a clock and air-temp if space allows.

 

[nh DRAGON]

This is the box I made for mine!101_0181.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

 

[Zephrant]

Looks nice. Whatcha got in it?

 

[nh DRAGON]

Filled with sand.

 

[KevPH1]

'm a new 2210 owner, and don't yet have the tractor in "ballance". It has the 210 loader, and a RB2072 rear blade. The first night I owned it I was pushing back snow berms and ran up on one and crashed the blade in to the pavement. The next morning I noticed the top link was bent.

Just a thought.

The 3ph is (by design) made to pull the load, rather then push. I try to avoiding the temptation of pushing my 3ph rear blade is reverse. Most 3ph rear blades do not have the spring blade trip feature of a snow/front blade setup. Much better to pull the rear blade and leave the pushing to the front loader. Good luck!

 

[Zephrant]

I'll keep that in mind- I can reverse the blade around, but I have been pushing it backwards a little too. JD wants $110 for the end of the top link that is bent, where I can get an entire new one from Northern Tool for $25. So I have that and lights on order, and will try to straighten my bent one later on.

After much thought and research, I caved in and used the beet juice in the tires- $80 total for both tires from Less Swab, so not bad. Weight of each tire after the fill was 148 pounds. I forgot to weigh them pre-fill.

Bent link:

Here it is with the tires back on, and the new chains on:

 

[mjncad]

Z:

That took quite a bit of force to bend that top link. You can push with your rear blade; but do it with loose dirt/snow and at slower speeds.

 

[Conservation]

Z:

That took quite a bit of force to bend that top link. You can push with your rear blade; but do it with loose dirt/snow and at slower speeds.

It did, but keep in mind that having that much thread exposed on the link also makes it vulnerable to bending. I know that is what it took to adjust where you wanted it, but it makes it vulnerable. Farm and Fleet around here carries the links. You could probably go to a racing parts store and get and end link for it too. JD is really proud of theirs!

 

[ChuckinNH]

It's my understanding that Zephrant was going forward when he bent the link. He just went up a steep incline, and hit the blade on the pavement behind him when it bottomed out.