Help: "Knob & Tube" Wiring Problem!

[Dougster]

Dougster,
Go here and look for a W30 connector it's on page 4 or 5. If you can get a pair of needle nose on the wire, just slip this on and extend from there. You can also use a P-Nut, do a google search.

Managed to get my hands on a "P-Nut" today from the local electrical supply house... for free no less!!! Doesn't get any better than that!!!

This is going to work perfectly! Thanks again Inspector507!!!

Dougster

 

[ultrarunner]

Hey, my 1922 home is all knob and tube with a single 30 amp Edison fuse for the main. The fuse looks like it is 90 years old too... they sure don't make things like they used too!

 

[MossRoad]

Here's a link to some interesting reading about knob and tube wiring.

Knob and Tube Wiring - Oldhouseweb.com

 

[Inspector507]

This is going to work perfectly! Thanks again Inspector507!!!

Dougster

You're welcome. I've used them in numerous sitiations to keep from tearing out a box or wall.

 

[hitekcountry]

Here's a link to some interesting reading about knob and tube wiring.

Knob and Tube Wiring - Oldhouseweb.com

There is an error in that article. The statement:

“Switches were often placed on the neutral wire, turning off the circuit but not the current."

The statement is incorrect. A switch in a circuit as it is described WILL turn off the current when the switch is open. The way the statement should read is:

"Switches were often placed on the neutral wire, turning off the circuit but not the voltage."

The point to be made is that in a circuit that is switched on the neutral wire remains “hot” all the time so even when the circuit is “off” there is still a voltage potential to ground.

 

[hockeypuck]

What ever you do, do not solder that splice.

 

[Dougster]

What ever you do, do not solder that splice.

Connection was made yesterday... simply, quicky and perfectly with the "P-Nut"! The chandelier works perfectly again. Issue completely resolved!

Dougster

 

[pat32rf]

The insurance company that we had for our 4000sq ft 1870 home demanded that all traces of K&T wiring be removed, not just disconnected. Most had been, as I am a retired electrician, but there was still some visible in crawl spaces that you could see but not reach.There were a few other issues about firewood storage and the measurements of the 125yr old restored stair rail.
We finally lost our insurance, the house went into the insurance computer as a problem and we were unable to get re-insurred until we sold it 3yrs later. As soon as we gave our address to a new agent and told him that we didn't presently have coverage he would check his computer. Same story with all of them. Once you have been dropped, as opposed to letting it lapse, you are up the creek, at least here in Ontario.

 

[Dougster]

The insurance company that we had for our 4000sq ft 1870 home demanded that all traces of K&T wiring be removed, not just disconnected. Most had been, as I am a retired electrician, but there was still some visible in crawl spaces that you could see but not reach.There were a few other issues about firewood storage and the measurements of the 125yr old restored stair rail.
We finally lost our insurance, the house went into the insurance computer as a problem and we were unable to get re-insurred until we sold it 3yrs later. As soon as we gave our address to a new agent and told him that we didn't presently have coverage he would check his computer. Same story with all of them. Once you have been dropped, as opposed to letting it lapse, you are up the creek, at least here in Ontario.

That's pretty dang scary. Where my GF lives (near Boston), almost all the older houses have some small amount of K&T wiring left. Somehow, someway... it meets code. Town inspectors have been in there often too due to many upgrades. It apparently satisfies the insurance companies as well. They have complained about many other things... and we have had to fix them all... but the 2 or 3 remaining traces of K&T have never been the subject of their wrath. Go figure.

Dougster