head gasket needing replaced?

[Ginormous]

Hi guys,
It looks like I have another problem that may also be contributing to making my tractor being hard to start. I noticed coolant seaping out of the head gasket seam. It's very slow; no puddle under the tractor, just a small number of drops that got the concrete wet plus some drips hanging on the bottom of the crank case bolts. It's very clear that coolant is coming out of that seam (driver's side?) underneath where the thermostart connects to the engine -- I should post a picture for posterity. Is this the classic way a head gasket starts to fail?

G

 

[stormpetrel]

I was told to check for head gasket failure by starting the engine, and after it first starts up to check the radiator overflow bottle for air bubbles coming from the tube inside the bottle.

I have had head gasket failure twice (both times from "operator error") and both times saw bubbles in the overflow bottle upon starting.

Good luck!!

 

[winston1]

No doubt you have a head gasket leak. I wouldn't call it the classic way, rather Stormpetrels would be the classic way. Head gaskets can leak into different areas. If you do the test Stormpetrel described that will pretty much tell you whether combustion is leaking back into the cooling system. If you don't show bubbles there you might try re-torquing your head bolts. Might possibly stop the outer leak. If you are getting bubbles I would recommend a gasket change.

 

[normde2001]

Clean the area well, and assure it is a HG leak. Very strange that a HG would seep to the outside and coolant reach the ground without drying from hot engine. Mine has shown a slight coolant discoloration at the head/block seam for 13 years, but have never actually seen coolant.

 

[Ginormous]

I was suspicious a few weeks ago because I found the radiator overflow bottle was empty. I checked the radiator and it was full. I refilled the overflow bottle and cleaned off the side of the block because I had spilled some coolant while filling the bottle and went around wiping things off. When I went out this weekend to push snow, I could see coolant clearly coming from the gasket and streaking down, so it leaked out slowly over time in cold temperatures. The overflow bottle looked about as full as it had been. I think I may have seen some white smoke on startup too, so it's probably leaking inside somewhere too. I will definitely check for bubbles in the overflow bottle the next time I start it up.

 

[Ginormous]

So I finally took a picture. Can someone confirm, is the red arrow pointed at the head gasket seam? This is where I have the antifreeze leaking out. Where are the bolts to tighten this down, is the blue arrow one of them? Anyone know what torque this (and the others) should be at? Thanks!

G

 

[diesel lover]

Unfortunately tightening it may make it worse. You cannot only tighten one side as this could warp the head. A mechanic like myself would not charge a whole lot to change the head gasket on your Yanmar engine as opposed to a car or truck.

Stop leak etc will not help only harm. Any further questions I can surely help you!

 

[winston1]

Yes, that is the head gasket. Yes that is a head bolt. you have six of them, 3 on each side. Torque is 133 ft lbs + or - 3.6. I doubt you will move it with the torque wrench set at that. However, if you do I don't think you will warp your head. If you do I refuse to be held accountable. I do doubt torquing it will stop the leak but I sure don't know.

 

[California]

If that engine is designed similar to YM2000 you have to look down into the intake manifold to see the next head bolt.

 

[Ginormous]

If that engine is designed similar to YM2000 you have to look down into the intake manifold to see the next head bolt.

I was wondering where the other bolts were! So does that mean I need to take off the intake manifold to get to the head bolts? How much stuff can I leave connected to the head when I take it off? I'm wondering what other gaskets I may need and if there are any special tools I need.

diesel lover -- thanks for the advice and encouragement. I split my lawn tractor B&S engine a couple summers ago because there was a gasket around the waist of the engine that was leaking oil. It wasn't too bad, but there were lots of things to remove and later re-attach.

G

 

[Ginormous]

Yes, that is the head gasket. Yes that is a head bolt. you have six of them, 3 on each side. Torque is 133 ft lbs + or - 3.6. I doubt you will move it with the torque wrench set at that. However, if you do I don't think you will warp your head. If you do I refuse to be held accountable. I do doubt torquing it will stop the leak but I sure don't know.

Thanks, Winston. I'll need to borrow a heavy duty torque wrench from work to be able to get to that. It does seem unlikely tightening bolts will solve the problem, but if it's easy to do, it's probably worth starting there.

 

[SPYDERLK]

After you check the head bolts - if that doesnt fix it A teaspoon of fine ground pepper in the radiator will likely fix that leak.
larry

 

[California]

does that mean I need to take off the intake manifold to get to the head bolts?

I dunno for YM2002. That's a 3 cylinder, no?

YM2000 has only one of its six bolts hidden down the intake. You can reach it with a socket extension after taking out the thermostart. As for your model ???? Tell us what you find!



Edit - add: Oops. I see now its a YM2210, 2 cylinder, that has the head gasket leak.

 

[winston1]

Here is the head. Yanmar Tractor Parts: CYLINDER HEAD - BARE
Note this listing under the 2210. Yanmar Tractor Parts: STUD - CYLINDER HEAD

The intake manifold is included in the rocker arm cover.

 

[kenmac]

If possible, get the engine up to operating temp. Then re torque the bolts

 

[bandaidmd]

My local radiator shop owners method of checking for a head gasket leak is better than looking for bubbles.
Start a completely cold motor and run it for 40 seconds and shut it down then remove the radiator cap, if theres pressure its there because of combustion gasses getting into the cooling system.
Why this works is the water wont heat enough to expand in that short of time . Bubbles in the system can just be from the water heating, ever watch a pan of water as it heating?

 

[normde2001]

Starting with inside nuts, back each off just enough to break the paint, then re-tighten to 133ft. lbs. Then get packet of GM Coolant System Seal Tabs from autoparts dealer and drop into radiator. 2 tabs per packet, since small rad try just 1.

 

[Ginormous]

After you check the head bolts - if that doesnt fix it A teaspoon of fine ground pepper in the radiator will likely fix that leak.
larry

Just normal black pepper used for cooking, really?? Any chance of clogging something I don't want clogged? If not, I guess it's worth a try.

Normede2001 -- same question on the GM Coolant System Seal Tabs.

Thanks!

 

[Pete Judd]

I have used ground pepper for years for stop leak. Will clog rads and heater cores, but for a cheap fix will work.

 

[careyo63]

Sure will! Esp. in a used dirty Rad. Iv'e had the hole Rad. hose blow out in a old work Van yrs. ago. Tonque and all from plugging it up so bad. Wouldn't of been all that bad if the Eng. and Rad. didn't sit in between the front seats. The old 67 was a Beast with a 429 in it. I'd check the Torque and maybe consider adding a few pounds and see what happens. Could pull it and find it's cracked. and for a couple of bubbles and a cup or two loss of Water If that. If it was mine and after I retorgued it and no water in the Block or Oil and that was the only prob. I'd run the __ out of it and check the Water level it when I use it.