Head Bolts/ What in the @*^ are THESE?

[F100Panel]

Well Old Machinist, you have me 95% of the way there... My only problem now is which torque for which bolts? The bolts with number 13 on the cap I think go in holes one two and three.. I think that as there are only three marked #13. The eight marked on the cap number 10/there are 8 of those... I THINK go in holes 4 through 11..... I'm guessing item #18 would be the headbolts surrounding the cylinders & Item#19 the bolts sequence numbers1-3, run down the exhaust port side of the block. Understood ALL the bolts should be properly tightened but In MY mind/that process operating substantially off center most times the most critical to properly torques would be the 8 bolts surrounding the cylinders.... So I shakily conclude I torque the 8 bolts stamped 10 on the heads to 72-80 foot pounds & the other three #'s 1-3 in the sequence diagram, 105-116foot pounds... It just seems like these foot pound numbers supplied by the manual are awfully high for the size of the bolts but I guess the factory must know......

 

[tcartwri]

The 10 and 13 correspond to the tensile strength of the bolts, and these numbers are at the highest end of the range, so the torque numbers old dude posted look reasonable. Your next issue will be that you will want to chase the threads in the block before you re-assemble.... You wont have, nor will be able to find the correct tap for the JIS thread. If you run a metric tap down, because it will be very close, you will ruin the threads in the block. So I would just use a rifle bore brush to clean the threads and use a thread sealer from ARP or Permatex or Loctite. Then a dab of motor oil under the shoulder to ensure that you get the proper torque values.

I will be interested to see what your supplier says about the JIS numbers.

 

[F100Panel]

NorthEast Fasteners are closed this Friday But I'll call Monday 7 see what I can find out/Will post what I learn....

 

[F100Panel]

Well, Northeast Fasteners wasn't much help either... They confirmed Japanes Manufactures come up with totally oddball bolts/specs & then fail to make the information on them available... I think I'll just go with everyones advise here & torque the #10's to the lowest setting the Cub manual gives & torque the #13's to the middle setting & hope for the best. Will et you know how it turns out....

 

[SpudHauler]

Just one last comment and maybe some diesel mechanics can give advice on this issue.

I've rebuilt 100's of engines, all gas, two-stroke, four-stroke, 1 cylinder to 6 cylinder, cast-iron block and aluminum block.

None have ever had 2 different torque values for the same size bolts.

If it is 10 mm it is one value, if it is 8 mm it is another value. Car engines or lawn movers, cast-iron, 1/2" bolts one value, 1/4" another value.

A head needs even pressure everywhere to keep from warping. So all the bolts should be one value for the 10mm bolts you are using.

Just my opinion.

 

[F100Panel]

I'm with ya Spudhauler.. This isn't mt first time getting dirty... What is my first time is reading a factory service manual & seeing three torque settings with a WIDE swing and finding head bolts all the exact same size ( which was why I didn't keep track of which came from where...) & different apparently hardness numbers on the heads of the bolts with no explaination from anyehere. Deperate I called the only place that would invest the time to figure out how/where to get me a new head/Southern Global Tractor. They/Souther Global don't know what to tell me either ( Local 30 year Cub Dealer as mystified as all of us ) but Southern Global is talking to Mitsubishi Japan ( Note, NOT Mitsubishi USA ) where he got the head ( the style of my injectors/read posts above mystifies him too...) & is seeking a response from Japan... I'll keep ya all updated...

 

[F100Panel]

Well this has been going on for months but I got to the bottom of it yesterday. It turns out I was correct & it IS a newer replacement engine in the tractor & that was the source of all my signs of little things did not look right & the head bolt torque questions.. The guy I bought the head from "SOUTHERN GLOBAL TRACTOR" was able to get me an outrageously priced replacement head based on the serial number off the block & it was the correct head. While I was spending $1400 on a $500 head Southern Global was all ears/Help and the block serial number was all I needed. When I called back to ask what the engine actually was based on the serial number ( not spending any more money) they could not help me. Thought I'd throw in a plug for them & their NON customer service.... Went back to Mitsubishi & every time I gave the serial number I got the you have to get that information from Cub Dance. Soooo as the weeks turned into months I called Cub again & GOT LUCKY!!!!!!! I was connected to a guy who had been there 30 Years & he figured it out in 2 minutes. My tractor is a 1997. The 23 & 27HP Mitsubishi Deiesels in the 7000 series tractors were upgraded in 2000 to a newer/better Mitsubishi with 20/26HP. The engine I have in my tractor is a roughly a 2005 26 HP & if I go to the manuals & look up the 7260 Tractor I'll have everything I need. The guy was right & everything I needed all these weeks/months was right there.... Soon as I flush the radiator full of soote from the cracked head leaking byproducts of combustion into the cooling system I'll be running!!!!!

 

[dcyrilc]

That's awesome.:thumbsup: Write down that mechanics name at Cub and put it in your manual along with the engine info you have discovered. If you ever need more help, ask for that mechanic. We have two of that type of mechanic; one at the local Deere store and one at their northern store. It sure makes a difference when you talk to the guy who knows the machines inside and out.

 

[irvingj]

QUOTE: "It sure makes a difference when you talk to the guy who knows the machines inside and out."

Absolutely!!! Put that fellow's name somewhere safe; a good mechanic/parts person is worth their weight in gold, and seems to be getting harder & harder to find.

Also, having been in a similar situation, it's not a bad idea to write a letter to his boss (cc to the person involved and Cub Cadet Corporate) and mention how helpful that guy was; amazing what a little letter like that can do for a person's "permanent file."

Very glad to hear you now have the info to keep your tractor going!:thumbsup: