Head Bolts/ What in the @*^ are THESE?

[F100Panel]

I have a 7234/27 HP Diesel... I think.... It looks like a newer replacement engine in the tractor.. The service manual on this site one of the members put up ( THANK YOUI!!!!) shows the engine having flange type injector nozzles/ held in by a bolt on each side of the injector through the flange. My injectors screw in like spark plugs. All that in a previous post about a poor running tractor. Injector were rebuild & the tractor ran like new but I smelled steam in the exhaust/that too in the referenced post. It turned out to be a BADLY cracked head that could not be welded/saved. Soooooo if you go to the Cub website they show a part number for the head & a price of $450ish... NOT AVAILABLE.. I call Cub & they say yup, "WE WILL NOT BE ORDERING ANY MORE HEADS...." OK... I call around to places like Mitsubishi USA & they won't do anything until you give them a serial number... Then Mitsubishi says THAT'S PROPRIETARY, YOU HAVE TO GET THAT FROM CUB. I tell them but Cub won't order one/THEY/Mitsubishi DON'T CARE... There is not a Cub Dealer anywhere near me so I call Cub Dealers on line/even the 3 preferred by posters on this site. As soon as I tell them my injectors are not flange type they can't help me..../they don't know what I have & Cub discontinued heads... OH FOR CRYING OUT LOUD this is the same engine currently being installed in new Generators & pumps... If I could have found one local/Pump-Generator I woulda took the serial number off of it & used that to get a head. SOMEHOW if you make up a serial number, Mitsubishi figures it out.... ANYWAY I found ONE Dealer sharp ( and EXPENSIVE ENOUGH/3 times the cost of a head from Cub.../probably sold generators & used a serial number from one on site....) who had one shipped from Japan/took seven weeks.. I finally have the time to put the head on & ..... I look at the Service Manual I down loaded from this site.. It gives me THREE head bolts and three torque numbers
M10 gets 47-57 FTPDS Torque
M12 Gets 72-80 FTPDS
M14 Gets 108-116FTPDS

I look at my head bolts & on top of the head some have the number 10, some have the number 13.... DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO IDENTIFY THE TORQUE I REQUIRE FOR THESE HEAD BOLTS...? THANKS GUYS for takijng the time to read all this & if ya can assist, BOY I'D BE APPRECIATIVE!!!!!!!!

 

[irvingj]

Not sure if this will help, but perhaps... This is a general torque chart from the M-F service/owner's manual for my 2310.

"M" size refers to the metric thread size; the "4T"/"7T" I'm guessing refers to steel type/hardness, but I don't know enough about that to clarify. Perhaps one of our metallurgist members can help out here.

 

[tcartwri]

M10, M12, M14 are the bolt sizes. ie; M10 is 10mm across the shaft of the bolt.

They should also be marked with the grade of steel, either 8.8 or 10.9. and then sometimes the length in mm.

You torque the fastener as per the specs you listed, although the wide range for each seems kind of vague.

You obviously want some kind of thread sealant for any fastener that is open to coolant or oil.

 

[F100Panel]

Well... I'm with you guys on what you said so far butt.... the bolts marked 10 on top & 13 on top are all the same size in length & Diameter... How's THAT for confusing? The 10's are dirty on top/must have come from outside the valve cover & the 13's shiny clean & oily now that I look at them & think some more..must have been inside the valve cover... When I was taking the head bolts out they were all the same size/length so I didn't pay any attention to where they were comming from/who'da thought???? So I'm still with no idea what to Torque'em at/stopped dead..... HEEEEEELP!!!!! ANYBODY!!!!!!

 

[SpudHauler]

Not the same engine. Mine is a Kubota 3cyl D1105 in a RTV1100 with 24Hp, so very close.

Manual says head torque of 47 to 50 ft lbs.

Run engine and re-check after 30 minutes run time. Wait 4 hours cool down time or overnight before re-torque.

That should be a good number.

 

[tcartwri]

Well... I'm with you guys on what you said so far butt.... the bolts marked 10 on top & 13 on top are all the same size in length & Diameter... How's THAT for confusing? The 10's are dirty on top/must have come from outside the valve cover & the 13's shiny clean & oily now that I look at them & think some more..must have been inside the valve cover... When I was taking the head bolts out they were all the same size/length so I didn't pay any attention to where they were comming from/who'da thought???? So I'm still with no idea what to Torque'em at/stopped dead..... HEEEEEELP!!!!! ANYBODY!!!!!!

What diameter do they measure at?

 

[SpudHauler]

F100,
I'll bet your bolts are 10 mm shaft size.

In other words a 3/8 wrench will not fit over and a 7/16 will be a little loose.

So according to your specs above 47 to 57 ft lbs torque.

 

[F100Panel]

Ok.... I have a NEW/no wear fractional drill bit gauge.. The bolts will fit very snug into the 3/8ths/9.53mm hole & very loose in the 25/64ths 9.92mm hole.

With that is there a hardeness torque difference on the bolts with the 10 stamped on the top of the hex head and the bolts with the 13 stamped on the bolt hex head?

Remember, ALL these bolts are the same diameter & length.. With a $1300 head I really don't want to either snap a bolt off in the block or fail a gasket for insufficient torque & cut the head/block surface...

 

[tcartwri]

Well I can find no reference to a grade 13 bolt.

There is certainly a difference between an 8.8 and 10.9 grade bolt.

So my answer is, I have no idea what the 13 may relate to.

However, the measured diam tells me the safe torque range for your fasteners is 47 to 50 ft lbs.

When you torque the bolts, you will increment up to those numbers. If the bolt keeps stretching, stop! And replace them all.

 

[dcyrilc]

Not that it helps mecn now, but I was taught to always lay out your bolts in relation to where they came out of and then screw them partially back into their holes for storage until ready to reinstall.