Happiness returns

Mels · Feb 28, 2005

Went out this morning and started checking for the lack of tachometer and hour meter. I knew it had worked and nothing indicated a major problem. I know electrical as have taught automechanics and work on computers for a living. located the crankshaft sensor and started checking wiring. Looked behind the module and could find nothing wrong. earlier I had looked at the white connector coming from the crank sensor and thought it was OK. (wrong) can't blame China for this one. assembly crew had not latch the wires in the connector. bent the taps slipped them in and got a nice click. Cranked up the tractor and away the tach went. I think I should have had chip put this thing together. finding lots of loose things. I am happy with the tractor. I never cease to smile when I look at it. Want to put it to work. Have five hours on it now. needs more breakin. Thanks for all the advice on the fuel tank. I was going to use muratic acid, but think I will try to just clean the loose rust and keep the tank full. I need to get filters for fuel, oil and hydro oil. Has anyone found metal in the transmission or front drive? I also would like advice on viscosity of oils. Book seems to recommend #30 or aw32. AW 32 is number 10 SAE. I am confused about what to use. I do know that whats in there seems to be #30 SAE. I read some treads, but still confused. I find this site to be of great help.

greg_g · Feb 28, 2005

Here's what I use in my KM454 (same as yours, less one cylinder)
Crankcase - Shell Rotella T 15W40
Front Diff - Shell Spirax HD 80W90 (non-foaming)
Tranny - Shell Spirax HD 80W90 (non-foaming)
Steering - Shell AW32 (non-foaming)
Hydralics -Shell AW32 (non-foaming)
Injection Pump - Campbell-Hausfield compressor oil (ISO 100)
Cooling System - 50/50 low silicate/water (yours may have no anti-freeze)

//greg//

BigAl · Feb 28, 2005

If you have a rust problem in the fuel tank I have the easy removal way to get it all out . If you have access to a small cement mixer strap the tank to the mixer after removing all the fuel . Take out the sending unit ,add a pound or two of 1/4" or 3/8" threaded nuts and seal up the sending unit opening and fill spout with duct tape . Let it spin on the mixer for about a hour , take off the tape ,shake the nuts out the fill spout or sending unit hole , rinse with water until it runs clear . Put everything back together, add one container of "water remover" to your first tank of fuel and enjoy your rust free fuel tank ! It makes a heck of a racket when it is strapped to the mixer ,but those tumbling nuts just clean it real nice . Don't try this on a "real old" thin rusted out tank or there may not be much left . I did this many times on old gas tanks that had set for years and developed a rust problem on cars I restored .
Big Al

bluechip · Feb 28, 2005

Glad you got the tach problem solved. Greg's list of lubricants is fine, use the brand of your choice. We stock filters, so far no one has found a cross reference for them. In all fairness to your dealer, we have noticed that things, especially the muffler, like to work a little loose when traveling on the hwy long distances. You should retorque wheel mounting and loader (if equipped) bolts at 10 and 20 hours, then periodically. Keep the banjo fittings tight and you should get many many trouble free hours out of that tractor. In my only slightly biased opinion, it is a great value!

Mels · Mar 15, 2005

Sent you an Email on the loader. Should know about taxes in about 3 weeks. I am sorry I missed your question on what the name on the tractor is. I expected it to not say KAMA, but that is the name with no other listed. I will still try to call you on Thursday or Friday. Thanks again. (I am from Southern Wisconsin. Near Janesville.)