Hadda sand down brake shoes

[etpm]

When I bought my YM2310 it came with new brake shoes in a box. The left side brake assembly that I just took apart because the brakes kept sticking is now all cleaned up, greased, and installed. I ran into a problem with the new brake shoes though. They would not fit into the brake drum. I put the old cracked shoes back in place and measured them, then I put the new shoes in and measured them. The new shoes were more than 1/32" larger. So I used my belt sander to reduce the thickness of the brake linings. I did wear a mask while sanding down the shoes. They are supposed to be asbestos free if sold in the USA but these were made in China so who knows?
The old shoes looked like they had gotten really hot and the linings were cracked. I think the brakes have been dragging since I bought the tractor. And I guess rust forming on the drum just made the brakes even tighter.
I have no idea how long it will take to wear in the new brake shoes but I really don't think it matters much since I don't have any steep slopes and I never drive the tractor fast. But today the attempt will be made to try to seat the sanded down brake shoes at least a little.
The old shoes had grooves in them in an X shape. I have never seen this before. Could this have been done the help the brakes work when wet? These grooves did not look original, they were uneven in depth and size.
Thanks,
Eric

 

[winston1]

Watching this might help you. Yanmar Tractor Brake repair Video

 

[California]

Hoye comments for their YM135 etc brake shoes, that sometimes it may be necessary to shave a little off the shoe-end where it meets the fixed anchor, in order to get the overall diameter down to where you can install the shoes/cover assembly.

 

[ponytug]

Hoye comments for their YM135 etc brake shoes, that sometimes it may be necessary to shave a little off the shoe-end where it meets the fixed anchor, in order to get the overall diameter down to where you can install the shoes/cover assembly.

Not uncommon with many drum brake shoes in general in my (limited) experience.

All the best,

Peter

 

[careyo63]

May want to turn the Rotors/drums first. Or Check if they need to be. Before I would be sanding on the Pads.

 

[rScotty]

May want to turn the Rotors first. Or Check if they need to be. Before I would be sanding on the Pads.

Yes, always a good idea. These are drums with internal shoes, not rotors with external pads - but what you say is applicable to both. Best when the friction surface of the steel is mirror smooth. Sometimes rusty surfaces have pits that get filled with pieces of brake shoe and that accelerates the shoe wear.

Still, it takes awhile before that happens. As little as we use tractor brakes, everything the OP has done sounds like it will be a huge improvement.

It is common to have to reduce new shoes working diameter to fit into the drum - or grind the ends of the shoes where they fit against the actuating cam. Some brake shoes used to have have replaceable ends to compensate.

rScotty

 

[careyo63]

The NTM Ford 2000 Brakes are the last thing to do on it. L. side never worked R. side it sounds as though a spring has Rusted,Broke etc.. Just started so before It Groves the Drum etc. Going in to get replaced this week! That and the Tention on Throttle. Only thing left. Considering new paint? After all the decades of grease and dirt I removed. The Eng/Trans Is in real good shape. 63 4cyl. gas. I thought Power steering was going to happen but greased everything up and hooked up the old Int. BH. that weighs a Ton took care of that problem. I has loader so it was rough to turn. lost most of my R. hand and arm use Yrs. ago. Hard to type!! So you see the Typo's now you know why!! Rear tires are Loaded with water. Tractions off the chart though...........

 

[clemsonfor]

When I bought my YM2310 it came with new brake shoes in a box. The left side brake assembly that I just took apart because the brakes kept sticking is now all cleaned up, greased, and installed. I ran into a problem with the new brake shoes though. They would not fit into the brake drum. I put the old cracked shoes back in place and measured them, then I put the new shoes in and measured them. The new shoes were more than 1/32" larger. So I used my belt sander to reduce the thickness of the brake linings. I did wear a mask while sanding down the shoes. They are supposed to be asbestos free if sold in the USA but these were made in China so who knows?
The old shoes looked like they had gotten really hot and the linings were cracked. I think the brakes have been dragging since I bought the tractor. And I guess rust forming on the drum just made the brakes even tighter.
I have no idea how long it will take to wear in the new brake shoes but I really don't think it matters much since I don't have any steep slopes and I never drive the tractor fast. But today the attempt will be made to try to seat the sanded down brake shoes at least a little.
The old shoes had grooves in them in an X shape. I have never seen this before. Could this have been done the help the brakes work when wet? These grooves did not look original, they were uneven in depth and size.
Thanks,
Eric

Make sure you get that drum smooth as you can if it's rusty it will chew those shoes up quick and you will need to readjust them. There not like automotive brakes where they self surface themselves well.