The PTO is always on. Got it started a couple times due to immediate need for the tractor. Kept PTO switch in off position and once the PTO actually did eventually disengage (slowly) and then started operating normally with the PTO on/off switch. Shut the machine down and the condition returned. So after troubleshooting a little and some ohm checks...terminals on top of PTO (naturally with the wires unplugged) is a dead short 0 ohms. Is it normal for the PTO to have 0 ohms across it's terminals when unplugged? Also tried starting tractor while the PTO was disconnected, PTO was still engaged and spun with engine however...engine never started (I assume because of the load with the pto being on)? So...fortunately for me and my bad luck...my PTO is the more expensive one so I figured before I dropped the $$$ I'd ask you forum members for confirmation of my beliefs that the PTO is bad. Any help?
GT2544 PTO always engaged
- Thread starter MbugsyR
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- cub cadet gt2544
tracter
Silver Member
Been thinking about this disengaged should be normal , engaged is operational , like a air conditioner clutch.
So it does sound like something is wrong with the clutch for it to be stuck in operational mode , like the other post said "seized maybe"
Try a squirt of WD40 into the centre of the clutch and let soak for a while it may release
So it does sound like something is wrong with the clutch for it to be stuck in operational mode , like the other post said "seized maybe"
Try a squirt of WD40 into the centre of the clutch and let soak for a while it may release
would not recommend the wd 40 - good chance of it migrating out onto the deck belt and then another prob to deal with, imho.
Typically, the idler bearing within the pulley goes bad and then seizes up, locking PTO pulley to engine crankshaft full time. By leaving PTO switch off, cranking engine with plug wires pulled and observing PTO pulley/belt for movement will quickly confirm lockup. Biggest prob then are the replacement $$$ and getting the PTO clutch assy off the crankshaft (often rusted tight & takes an impact wrench to break retaining bolt loose).
Typically, the idler bearing within the pulley goes bad and then seizes up, locking PTO pulley to engine crankshaft full time. By leaving PTO switch off, cranking engine with plug wires pulled and observing PTO pulley/belt for movement will quickly confirm lockup. Biggest prob then are the replacement $$$ and getting the PTO clutch assy off the crankshaft (often rusted tight & takes an impact wrench to break retaining bolt loose).
Once again thanks for info. No visible rust on machine anywhere hopefully none hidden by clutch. Have impact wrench so no problem there either. I can't imagine it being anything other than being seized up. So clutch ordered. (pricey bugger) Now hopefully removal and install goes without problem. Thanks again!
Gator6x4
Super Star Member
Try removing with a rachet and socket prior to using the impact wrench. If using an impact wrench be careful when installing and don't hammer to long. A half inch impact wrench can break or twist bolts.
OP - agree with caution using impact wrench. Also, pay close attention to exactly how static (non-turning) part of PTO clutch pulley assy is anchored to frame - will prolly need to be indexed properly during re-assy. Great idea to take a cuppla pix of existing setup before tearing apart - great substitute for a perfect memory. Also note just how elect lead to clutch is routed/secured... last thing you want is for that to be hanging down and get caught by trash/etc.
BTW, any warranty left on that machine?
BTW, any warranty left on that machine?
Don't much care to use impact for installation. will probably try a careful breaker bar for removal first. Never removed one so I'm very careful...hence the posts haha...I always say without bad luck I wouldn't have any luck at all. Bought machine in '05. That thing has pulled so much stone, rock, gravel, dirt...I'm surprised it never gave me the finger and said..."I'm done!" Had to replace a couple ball joints up forward and the cheap piece of metal for the brake safety switch...other than that the thing is a work horse with one eye...(head lights are a mess)
tracter
Silver Member
rcbe . yeah I meant to say drop the belt off , would still try a squirt of WD40 before pulling apart , then switch on and off a few times with motor running
That would be my starting point before moving to major surgery
That would be my starting point before moving to major surgery
tracter
Silver Member
Theres a bloke on only cub cadets with a bunch of ptos for sale
Gator6x4
Super Star Member
Slow and easy with the PTO removal. If stuck don't start trying to force it off. If you have room use a gear puller after screwing a bolt into the end of the crankshaft to prevent spreading or damaging the end of the crankshaft. I have seen Tech's use a dremel tool to cut their way into where the bearing has welded itself to the crankshaft. Damage the crankshaft and you are looking at an expensive repair. You may want to also replace the front seal while you have the PTO off.
tracter
Silver Member
No worries , good luck with the surgery , do not forget to take plenty of fluids after the operation and always thank the nurse
I"m not sure how to post on here just yet. Do I need to start my own thread or continue with the previous PTO problem? On my GT2550, with PTO in off position, my mower will start, but the PTO is engaged. When I engage the PTO, the blades stop. It's like something is wired backwards. I looked at the connectors and they can only be plugged in one way. Thanks
savageactor7
Platinum Member
Stuberts lucky you, it sounds like a simple $10 PTO switch remove ans replace.
