GT 1554 won't turn over

[RussellJ]

Help! I have an 2005 GT 1554 with a Kohler Command. At the end of last season when trying to start it would just click the first couple times tried but would then turn over and start. Thought I had a bad connection. Let it sit in the basement all winter and now it won't turn over at all. Just clicks loudly. I cleaned all the battery connections and at the starter but no help. I replaced the battery but no help. Took the starter off and the bendix will pop out and spin when key is turned. Remounted starter and just clicking loudly again. Can turn engine with hands. Any ideas! Thanks, Russell

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

You need to make some checks with a volt meter. Check the voltage at the starter terminal while trying to crank it. If it's11.5-12.5 volts, there is a problem with the starter. If the voltage drops much lower than that try checking it at the battery. Check both the battery cable terminals on the battery and the battery posts themselves. Good voltage at the post and bad on the terminals would indicate a bad connection. Good voltage on the cable terminals at the battery and bad voltage at the starter end would indicate a bad battery cable. Also check the voltage on the battery cable with the negative meter cable connected to the negative battery post and then the tractor frame. A difference here would indicate a bad ground cable, or connection.

Bob B.

 

[RussellJ]

Bob B,

Thanks for the info. I will try your suggestions. In your second line you refer to the starter terminal, are you refering to the large wire coming from the positive battery post or the smaller wire or both?

Thanks again,

Russell

 

[dqdave1]

check negative cable at the frame connection. Remove it; clean and replace

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

Bob B,

Thanks for the info. I will try your suggestions. In your second line you refer to the starter terminal, are you refering to the large wire coming from the positive battery post or the smaller wire or both?

Thanks again,

Russell

I meant the larger terminal with the battery cable attached. The smaller terminal activates the solenoid, which is apparently working to cause the clicking sound.

Bob B.

 

[RussellJ]

I checked voltages as Bob suggested and other places. I found that at the solenoid where the big cable from the battery attaches the voltage is 12.5, when key is moved to start the voltage drops to 11.6. The small blue wire going to the solenoid shows 12.5 volts when disconnected and key is turned. It reads 8 volts when connected and key is turned. The braided cable from the solenoid to the starter only shows .5 volts when key is turned. Am I correct in believing that this is a solenoid problem???

Thanks for any info, Russell

 

[Thomas]

Just a thought...I had Sears GT 20hp couple years ago did the samething,and come to find out it was that safety swtich in the seat.

 

[art]

If the starter is on the floor and activated what happens, I know we do test them before replacing and do the same for our customers for no cost.

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

I checked voltages as Bob suggested and other places. I found that at the solenoid where the big cable from the battery attaches the voltage is 12.5, when key is moved to start the voltage drops to 11.6. The small blue wire going to the solenoid shows 12.5 volts when disconnected and key is turned. It reads 8 volts when connected and key is turned. The braided cable from the solenoid to the starter only shows .5 volts when key is turned. Am I correct in believing that this is a solenoid problem???

Thanks for any info, Russell

From your description it sounds like the solenoid is bad. I don't know how mechanically inclined you are but I've disassembled many car starter solenoids over the years. They usually have a round copper disc that contacts 2 copper terminals when the solenoid is energized. The disc and terminals burn over time. I have often been able to loosen the terminals to the point where they can be rotated 180 degrees and also rotate the disc or reverse it so that you have new unburned contact surfaces. You can bypass the solenoid and test the starter motor by removing the battery cable from the solenoid and touching it to the starter motor terminal.

Bob B.

 

[RussellJ]

Bob,
I removed the large cable from solenoid, turned the key to get the click then touched the cable to the starter terminal. You were right! The engine cranked over just like it should!
I removed the solenoid but didn't really see a way to take it apart but, I will look again. If I can't move the terminals I'll be looking for a new solenoid.
Thanks for your help (and all the others who offered suggestions). Russell

 

[franmech]

I wouldn't be so quick with the solenoid, if you have 8 volts at the small blue wire when it is connected and the key is turned to start then there's your problem. 4.5V drop will not likely work the solenoid like it should. I'd check all your connections, i.e. safety switches and key switch and pto switch.......................Of course I could always be wrong, I would get solenoid tested. If solenoid is separate from starter then no big deal, it's cheap enough. But if it is mounted on starter, watch out=expensive.

 

[RussellJ]

I installed a new starter and solenoid and the engine now cranks and starts
however, sometimes it just clicks the first time the key is turned but then cranks and starts and sometimes it sounds like the started is really straining to turn it over. Most times it cranks and starts fine.
Am I missing something? Thanks, Russell

 

[TractorLarry]

My 1864 does the same thing. I think it's engine compression.

-Larry

I installed a new starter and solenoid and the engine now cranks and starts
however, sometimes it just clicks the first time the key is turned but then cranks and starts and sometimes it sounds like the started is really straining to turn it over. Most times it cranks and starts fine.
Am I missing something? Thanks, Russell

 

[Gator6x4]

I installed a new starter and solenoid and the engine now cranks and starts
however, sometimes it just clicks the first time the key is turned but then cranks and starts and sometimes it sounds like the started is really straining to turn it over. Most times it cranks and starts fine.
Am I missing something? Thanks, Russell

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but yes, you probably missed something.
The no start or click when attempted to start is an issue with several makes of equipment. A correction for this is to install a relay. The instructions for this on the cub are as follows:

Purchase a five (5) prong relay. I like the type with a tab. This allows the placement of the relay near the starter with a sheet metal screw. Some like the type that mounts through the use of a bracket. The relay needs to have the following terminals, 30-85-86-87-87a. A auto parts store can supply. Or, if you want to spend big bucks purchase one from MTD/Cub Cadet. The part # for the Cub Cadet relay is 925-1375.
Remove the wire from the key switch to the starter solenoid. (Remove the wire at the solenoid - pull from the spade terminal)If you are lucky, install this wire on terminal # 85 on the relay. If unlucky splice a wire onto the wire so it will reach where you have mounted the relay. Connect a wire to terminal # 86 and attach the other end of the wire to a good ground. Install a wire on the terminal on the starter where you previously removed the wire from the switch, attach the other end of the wire to terminal # 30 on the relay. Install a wire with a 20 amp inline fuse on the main battery wire at the starteer or another 12 volt source. Connect the other end of this new 12 volt source to terminal # 87 on the relay. No wires should be connected to terminal # 87a. Now when you turn the key to start, the voltage from the switch collapses the relay and the new 12 volt source engerizes the starter. This no start or clicking problem started when safety switches where added to the start system.

Good luck - Happy starting.

 

[Dutch445]

We had the same unit in on trade, with intermittent
starting problems, previous customer had
jumped the brake switch also..
come to find out, in the connector down near the
right rear side of the engine, i think it was white,
with about 6 wires in it.. one of the terminals was pulling
back out of the connector, and everytime the wire
got moved, it might make or break that connection.
I eventually noticed the arc in the connector and then
saw the terminal pulling back out. it was an easy fix,
and an even luckier find.
good luck

 

[RussellJ]

Thanks for the additional info. Now I have something else try!

 

[RussellJ]

I give up. After improving some after the starter/solenoid replacement it is getting worse again and now blowing fuses sometimes. Dealer is coming to get it today! Thanks for all the previous info. Russell