Green Board or Durock?

   / Green Board or Durock? #11  
Try to have that bath fan vent properly out the side wall. The gable vent is not the correct place for venting it as the moisture can still be pushed back into the attic and condense.

You can also tie it into the light switch so it's always on when the light is on. Better is to have an 'Off timer' so it will also keep running for 10-15mins after they leave the bathroom.
 
   / Green Board or Durock? #12  
Maybe a sensor would solve problems…

At rentals, just like smoke detectors disabled I have had bathroom fans disabled :-(
 
   / Green Board or Durock? #13  
Maybe a sensor would solve problems…

At rentals, just like smoke detectors disabled I have had bathroom fans disabled :-(
It's disabled at my house also, until I put it on a separate switch from the light.
 
   / Green Board or Durock? #14  
Mold is a plant, and it needs to be treated like an unwanted weed. Replacing the ceiling will get rid of what is growing there now, but it will just come back if you still have the same conditions.

To kill mold, I like to use Swimming Pool Liquid Shock. A gallon of it at Home Depot is just a few bucks, and it's in the outdoor garden area with pond and pool supplies. Put it in a spray gun and soak the area. This will kill the mold down to it's roots.

I'm also a big fan of Zinsser primer. In my experience, it's the only one that actually works.

Then I use exterior paint in bathrooms. Exterior paint is harder and seals better then interior paint. I don't think any of the mold blocking stuff does anything for interior paint. I buy paint from Sherwin Williams for most of my jobs, and usually get the more expensive stuff if my clients are willing to pay for it. Emerald Paint is probably the very best paint that you can buy.

To help prevent mold, the surface needs to be dry. Air flow is the very best way to keep everything dry. When I do a remodel for a client, I like to put the ceiling vent fan right at the entrance to the shower. Usually, it's close to the toilet too, but my main goal is to clear out the steam from the shower, so the ceiling remains dry.

To answer your question about what material is best to use for a ceiling in a bathroom, that would be the green Mold Guard sheetrock designed for moisture. But I would not replace the existing sheetrock unless it was damaged and needed to be replaced.

Most ceilings are 5/8's inches thick because the ceiling joists are 24 inches apart. It's not always done that way, and that's another issue, but if you have 5/8's sheetrock up there already, nothing else is going to have that thickness. If your ceiling joists are 16 inches apart, or less, half inch sheetrock can be used, or you can use something else.

The only reason to use something like GoBoard or Hardie on a ceiling is if you are going to tile the ceiling. And then you need to add lumber to the joists to get your span to 16 inches or less. I do mine at 12 inches when I tile a ceiling in a shower.
 
   / Green Board or Durock?
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Try to have that bath fan vent properly out the side wall. The gable vent is not the correct place for venting it as the moisture can still be pushed back into the attic and condense.

You can also tie it into the light switch so it's always on when the light is on. Better is to have an 'Off timer' so it will also keep running for 10-15mins after they leave the bathroom.
I used the wrong description, the fan does vent to outside. The dedicated vent is on the same attic wall as the gable vent.
 
   / Green Board or Durock?
  • Thread Starter
#16  
The replacement Mold Tough drywall is up. I see Zinsser has a paint/primer combination for indoor baths and kitchens, is that any good? I typically don't go for combo paint/primer. As far as exterior Zinsser mold resistant paint as mentioned goes, I found some for wood. Any advice on the actual primer and paint selections? The old drywall that the previous owner had installed was standard drywall and, as it turns out, the roof had been leaking prior to my re-roof over the worst area, the drywall had mold on top and bottom. Bath vent was fully functional to outside.
 
   / Green Board or Durock? #17  
So, you need to atleast access the back (top) side of the board, scrub, treat, and seal the top. While you are up there, do the same to the truss if it shows any water damage.

With a tenant being in the home, I kinda worry what they will see if you go full demo mode. Atleast look in attic/whatever (if no access, you can cut a 12x24 window flap in the sheetrock, that is easily repaired.
 
   / Green Board or Durock? #18  
Depending on the area, a dehumidifier may be in order as well.

Around here, low humidity is about 60% from April to October. Peak in July when 92% of the time the dew point is over 65 degrees.

The drying function of an A/C unit cannot keep up. Most people get a separate large unit to keep humidity down.
 
   / Green Board or Durock? #19  
Perma White by Zinsser has solved many a rental problem for me…

I have not kept up with formula changes but in the last 15-30 years ago it was common to have problems in baths and closets with exterior walls… the Zinsser product eliminated it as long as 2 coats used.

 
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   / Green Board or Durock? #20  
We always had atleast somewhat OK results with dawn, bleach, and a toilet brush, and physically scrub the mold off. Then, let completely dry, and seal with a Kilz type product. Not 100% by any means, but the dawn allows the bleach to get to the spores. The scrubbing ensures that it's not just the surface getting killed.
 

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