Great wire rope trick

   / Great wire rope trick #1  

bx24

Platinum Member
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Jan 11, 2006
Messages
668
Location
Indiana
I have learned a ton of stuff from reading this forum, so I thought I would share some of my experience. If you have ever broken a winch line or wire rope and needed to put a new "eye" on the end, then this is the trick for you.

My crew worked for more than 10 years using a winch rated at 25,000 lbs and during that time, we snapped the 1/2 wire rope hundreds of times. We did not use "U Bolt" clamps on the line to make new eyes, we only used vinyl tape! With all those breaks, I cannot remember a single time where our eyes failed (often the factory built eyes would fail because they were old and abused - if we ever had any doubts, we would cut the factory "crimp eye" off and weave a new one.

This whole process took less than 10 minutes and worked like a charm. This technique will work for any rope (steel strand, nylon etc regardless of the number of individual strands), but it works especially well with wire rope.

ONE WORD OF CAUTION >>>> ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN WORKING WITH WIRE ROPE!!!!!!!!!!!! <<<<

Once when I was tying one of these, one of the strands slipped out of my hand and swept right across my face leaving deep scratches in the middle of my safety glasses. Had I not been wearing them, I would really have screwed up my eyes. I don't always wear them like I should, but this is NOT the time to be lazy.

Concepts:

The larger the loop and longer the tail, the stronger the eye. This comes from the fact that more length means more friction, and more friction means more strength. When I worked with 1/2 inch winch lines, we made the loops between 8 and 12 inches around with 6 to 8 inch tails.

Now for the instructions. I used nylon rope for these pictures, but again, any rope (wire or otherwise) will work so long as it is woven strands.

1- Decide how big you want the loop and unwind the rope 1.5 x that length. If the rope has three strands, separate one of the three strands. If it has 9, separate them into one group of 5, and the other group of the remaining 4 (you get the idea) Lets assume for this example we want the loop length to be 12 in (all the way around the eye), so unwind about 18 in of rope

2- Here is the big trick, cross the two unwound groups and wind them back together so they fit back into the groves (so it looks like the rope started out)

3- Once you get to the bottom of the loop, wind the remaining 6 inches together and tape up the end. You don't have to tape the end (we often didn't when we knew we would be tearing up the winch line otherwise. In case you were wondering, our winch started out with 2000 ft of line!)

With that you are done! Thats pretty much it for wire cable tricks, but I have a bunch for regular ropes if anyone is interested. Enjoy!
 

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   / Great wire rope trick #2  
Hey, that's especially cool! Even looks like it might work with polypro rope!
 
   / Great wire rope trick #3  
How far do you weave the rope back? do you have picks of wire rope being weaved? I have seen winch truck operators just tie a knot on thier cable and keep on working when the line broke. I would trust wire rope clips myself as long as one know how to apply them. Its faster than weaving. Thats why the wire rope industry went to a mechanical splice vs the hand splice-- which is what you are describing.
 
   / Great wire rope trick #4  
As side note, while the hand slpice can be done, it is a method thats being phased out in the wire rope industry. If you dont splice it correctly it can cause harm. Hence the various style of clips and mechanical splice methods used today. If a hand splice is done correctly there is no need for taping the tails, we cut the tails with a torch. Given this is in a shop enviroment not field. I am off my grandstand , just be careful if you do this. Wirerope is no joke, it will kill you.
 
   / Great wire rope trick #5  
On a quick side note, you can cut wire rope very easily with just a comon tools in your shop. Take a hatchet or single sided axe and lay it down on concrete or an anvil. Now with the blade pointing straight up, lay the rope down across the ax. Take a hamer and drive the rope into the blade. When you are almost thru, be careful not to damage the blade by hitting it with the hammer. It is very easy and does not really dull the ax.
My dad learned this building a couple thousand foot suspension bridge (just for walking) in Missouri in the 50's. They cut wire rope that was over an inch thick this way. Works like a champ.
Dave
 
   / Great wire rope trick #6  
Seems to me that while it makes a simple loop, it also reduces the strength of the loop to 1/3 that of the rope. The tail section gives no strength. Therefore the side that has the single strand is the weakest point as it takes the full force of the pull.

To make the loop full strength, I would have thought that the tails should be woven back into the main rope. This then makes it similar to normal woven loop.

Cityfarma
 
   / Great wire rope trick #7  
We have used this for years on CJ's with PTO winches. Was always told this is a Steamboat Splice. The loop you weave will be just as strong as the cable itself.
 
   / Great wire rope trick
  • Thread Starter
#8  
txslowpoke said:
How far do you weave the rope back? do you have picks of wire rope being weaved? I have seen winch truck operators just tie a knot on thier cable and keep on working when the line broke. I would trust wire rope clips myself as long as one know how to apply them. Its faster than weaving. Thats why the wire rope industry went to a mechanical splice vs the hand splice-- which is what you are describing.

All I can tell you is what we have done in the past, we always made the tails about 1/3 the total amount we un-raveled.

As several folks have mentioned, when working and ultimately loading wire rope, things can and do happen. In the original post, I mentioned that we snapped the winch lines a LOT. Any time the cable has been choked, smashed, nicked or otherwise compromised, you should expect it to fail. Unlike chain, wire rope also stretches so it stores a lot of energy that will cause it to snap far faster than you can move. Never put yourself in line with the cable, either in front or behind what ever you are pulling on. We have shattered windshields the the broken wire rope flew over the top of the truck and hit the glass.

From my own trial and errors, the tails need to be there. As was also pointed out, tape is not critical, but it helps me not catch the tail on things. Even with the heavy 1/2 inch cable we used, I can weave an eye in a little over a minute. This trick will not solve all of your problems, but give it a try and I am pretty sure you will use this trick at some point. To get the hang of it, practice and play with nylon rope and you will see what different length tails do for you. I like this because you can easily weave this eye around fixed objects. One last thing, never choke winch cable, you will damage it!
 
   / Great wire rope trick #9  
Paul,

Interesting. I don't have any experience with wire rope and never would have thought of splicing it like you did.

In the Boy Scouts, we learned to weave the ends of rope to create an eye, splice to pieces together and to create an end to the roap so it will never unravel. In those cases, we always wove the strands into the rope at least three times.

I still do it to day when I want an eye on a rope, but all my ropes already have them and I haven't bought a new rope in years. For fun, I'd cut lengths of rope and weave eyes into them for my Dad's boat and friends of ours who had boats. Nothing as handy as a rope with an eye at the end when docking!!

Thanks for taking the time to post the pics and give the detailed instructions. It's something that I'll remember.

Eddie
 
   / Great wire rope trick #10  
barneyrb said:
We have used this for years on CJ's with PTO winches. Was always told this is a Steamboat Splice. The loop you weave will be just as strong as the cable itself.

I still disagree. While I agree that the rope loop will not slip, the loop of rope is only 1/3 the strength of the main rope. Look at the "re weave the legs" picture. Wind the 2 strands down just short of the the main rope. Without winding the 2 strand tail around the 1 strand tail, the weakest point is the single strand adjacent to the main rope. Now wind the 1 and 2 strands together. If the single strand breaks, the remaining twisted tail will simply pull apart.

If you disagree, please explain where I am wrong.

Cityfarma
 

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