Grading A Road With Water Bars

   / Grading A Road With Water Bars #11  
Start at the top of the hill and work down, building as you go. A box blade works pretty good for making them. Open top culverts work better and are easier to maintain but are much more labor intensive to build.

image.jpg
 
   / Grading A Road With Water Bars
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Thanks for all the great replies! That video contains some good info too! I do have mostly rolling dips, but had to use water bars in some of the steeper areas where we didn't have enough room to put in the dips. I have a feeling at a minimum, a TNT and grader is going to be on my priority list, although it sure would be nice to have one of those road graders :) Anyone using one of the Roadrunner Graders? They are about twice as heavy as the LP GS2584, and about 10% more expensive.
 
   / Grading A Road With Water Bars
  • Thread Starter
#13  
My first thought is for a rear blade with gauge wheel(s), and easy it over the bars without cutting. Never used one, though.

Center wheel(s) on frame:
View attachment 336191

or two wheels on the blade:
View attachment 336192

The Bush Hog blade parts manual shows several "tailwheels" that could be copied or bought.
http://www.bushhog.com/images/stories/documents/manuals/rearmtdbladesparts.pdf

Bruce

Thanks for the link Bruce - I'll check pricing on those Hydraulics from BH. That sure would save me some time getting on and off the tractor to adjust the blade angle
 
   / Grading A Road With Water Bars #14  
Thanks for all the great replies! That video contains some good info too! I do have mostly rolling dips, but had to use water bars in some of the steeper areas where we didn't have enough room to put in the dips. I have a feeling at a minimum, a TNT and grader is going to be on my priority list, although it sure would be nice to have one of those road graders :) Anyone using one of the Roadrunner Graders? They are about twice as heavy as the LP GS2584, and about 10% more expensive.

Yes they are heavier than the Land Pride units. But if you look at a few others you will find several heavy units that are available.

GradeMaster Grader Blades

Home | Road Boss Grader I know that these typically run about 200lbs per foot width.
 
   / Grading A Road With Water Bars
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Thanks for the addl. links Brian. I will be in touch with you soon on a TNT kit, as soon as I figure out what I will need.
 
   / Grading A Road With Water Bars #16  
   / Grading A Road With Water Bars #17  
Those water bars you mention are called Kelly bumps around here by the old timers. I think I would be looking at used road graders to maintain that much road..
 
   / Grading A Road With Water Bars #18  
Hmmmm - learned something today, water bars. My first though was a road grader also; especially when the OP indicated "many miles of road" & "didn't want to spend any more time than he had to on road maintenance". Its going to be difficult to maintain many miles of road with a utility tractor and any kind of implement(s) and not spend a lot of time on maintenance. I have a mile long driveway and I sure get A LOT of seat time doing maintenance. And by the very nature of the beast - roads in the mountains are going to require more maintenance.
 
   / Grading A Road With Water Bars #19  
I just sold a top link to the Good Year Proving grounds in Texas to use on their JD 7810. (Big tractor, 180hp I think). Anyway, they have 25 miles of roads that they maintain on 7000 acres. The guy says that the tractor runs 8 hours a day, 5 days a week. They use a Road Boss to do all of the light maintenance and have 3 motor graders that get used for things that get seriously messed up.
 
 

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