Gorilla Glue

[JB4310]

I tried the glue once and threw the rest in the garbage, I keep a roll of the tape on the truck, it's marginaly better than reg duct tape but not really worth the extra money, it does stick to it's self incredibly well on the roll! as was mentioned.

 

[studor]

I guess my experience with Gorrilla glue is pretty much the same as everyone elses. I used it to laminate wood -- any carpenters' glue seems to work better. I also tried it on a bunch of other stuff like chairs etc -- it seems to bond best if you spill it on something (i.e. it is really hard to get off one surface but does not seem to have much shear strength). I have gone back to carpenters' glue, construction adhesives, epoxy and crazy glues.

 

[Travelover]

I've found that Gorilla glue expands and the expanded layer is weak. So it is important to have a tight fit between the two surfaces and clamp tightly. It seems to work pretty well where a waterproof glue is needed on porous materials. I glued a leather seam on my hiking boots and it lasted for a long time. I have also used it to glue cloth to cloth where I needed strength, but was too lazy to sew.

 

[boatyard]

The gorrilla tape was all that I could find on a road trip. It was very expensive. It seemed to work very well; ie very sticky. But when it got hot out, the tape got all soft and came undone in a sticky mess. They will not last in the market place.

 

[skipro3]

It works very well on plastics. I had a round plastic table I bought from Home Depot. It's a fairly cheap table that's about 4' diameter and sits on my back patio. A high wind sailed it around the house and slammed it into sever things, sending parts scattered through the yard. I gathered the parts up and used gorilla glue to put it back together. I think the foaming action filled gaps where plastic was either missing or was deformed. Anyways, that was 2 years ago, and since then, that table has been blown off the back patio on many occasions. I've never had to repair it since that first encounter.

 

[Scooby074]

My experience has been different then most of the other posters, as its worked quite well. The foaming action seams to seal up the joints. Also the things ive glued with GG have been wet, which helps the Gorilla type glues set up. I cant comment on its effectiveness on plastics or other materials as ive only used it on wood.

That being said, my usual wood glue for most projects is titebond III.

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

i was going to ask this, are most of you wetting the surface first? it seems like this is a must, if i recall....

 

[DieselPower]

GG alway's seemed to work well for me. It worked great on a couple of chairs I have reguled the stringers on. I have only ever used it in all wood applications. When I glue different materials together I tend to use two part epoxy's.

One question for the guy's it's not working for, do you prepare the wood surface before you do the glue up? By preparing I mean cleaning out old glue and slightly ruffing up the surface.

 

[weldingisfun]

Gorilla Glue, IMO not worth the cost.

 

[ray66v]

I have used several bottles of Gorilla Glue on many projects and will not buy another bottle because:
Elmers makes an equivelent water activated glue at a fraction of the price. Also for wood to wood joints TiteBond makes a professional wood glue that is easier to use and is stronger, cheaper, and cleans up with water.

Gorilla glues' short shelf life, and oozing issues have turned me off to the urethane wood glues.

I also like the TiteBond. I use the Molding & Trim version, it's thicker formula reduces drips and oozing. And, its fast initial tack reduces the need for fasteners, and clamping.

For trim, I also like the 2P-10 professional (super glue) thick. Used with the 2p-10 accelerator, it makes fastening impossible pieces of trim, like small returns, fast, and easy.