Gooseneck trailer locks?? Securing a tractor?

[HCJ]

Does anyone recommend a specific gooseneck trailer locking mechanism to prevent or discourage theft? I leave my trailer in my shed behind a locked gate, but if someone wanted it, they could find a way to get to it, as the property is isolated and uninhabited. I realize locks are not foolproof, but would it be worthwhile to use one? And while I am asking, my tractor sits beside it. Should I do anything to protect it? Of course I have insurance, but if I could somehow prevent a theft by locks or devices, that would seem wise. By the way, no electricty is availabe for an alarm. Oh yeah, my four wheeler is there also, so any advice about that? Man, I hope no theives are scanning this site!!!

 

[chh]

Sounds like you may be a thief's dream. Being isolated can also mean lots of time to work without being caught. I have not tried any gooseneck locks. They might help slow someone down and really discourage at least the lazy ones. When I had to keep my 4 wheeler in a shed quite aways from my house I used to use a good chain and a heavy master lock around a pole to discourage theft. Removing the battery or putting in a battery disconnect switch on the tractor might help with it. I have seen the battery disconnects used on heavy equipment for that reason. A man I used to know always left his horse trailer at his rural property, he removed both tires from one side everytime he left it and hauled them to his house. Kind of a pain, but it worked for him for years.

My luck would be though that they would steal the trailer and use it to haul off the tractor and 4 wheeler. Of course using my "lock" chain to help load and secure everything.

 

[sandman2234]

What type of hitch (gooseneck) does it have? If it is the one that uses a pin on the trailer, rather than the ball on the truck, I have a couple of pin locks that we used to use on tractor trailers. The keys were lost and the company said get rid of them. I have already had a couple re-keyed, and they work great. They are a lot heavier duty than the cheap ones you buy at the truck stops.
Remember that locks are only for honest people. The degree that they slow the thief down is what they are made to do, so if you can put up with the hassle, make several different ways for them to have to cut/etc in order to steal your trailer.
Little things like parking between two of those concrete barriers or some other none movable item will slow down tire thieves. Putting a piece of steel over the tires that has a chain running thru it will also deter tires from walking off. A chain ran thru all four rims and padlocked will keep the tires from rolling, a pin lock on the tongue, leave the ramps down and padlock them in place so they will have to drag if towed down the road. Using your loader, place a heavy barrel (like a 55 gal drum)filled with cement (or rocks topped off with cement) under your tongue, and chain it to the trailer. Make it a royal pain in the tail to go and use it, and thieves will go on down the road looking for an easier score.
Lock the tractor and the fourwheeler together, (in the rear of the tractor)so they have to drag on with the other as they load it on your trailer. (Don't chain it to the loader, or they will just pick it up). Consider installing lights, especially motion sensitive (yeah I caught the part about no power). Lights can be solar powered, and don't require outside wiring. Somebody probably makes a solar powered alarm system (they are all battery backup) that will use a cell phone (prepaid, no long distance, limited minutes, etc) or add a cell phone to your plan for about $10 a month. There are a lot of different ways to do it, it just takes a little bit of effort on your part to get it set up, and maybe some money to pay somebody to install it.
David from jax

 

[Skyco]

Same issues with my remote property. I'd love to leave the tractor and ATV there. I haul it back and forth. Short of building an underground bunker with a 2" thick steel door there is no way to stop a determined thief that has all week to work at it while I'm away
I sure wish I had power and a phoneline at my property, but then the particular county, Polk NC, I'm in has so many problems with the Sheriff's Dept lately, they'd likely be the ones stealing

 

[RadarTech]

Same issues with my remote property. I'd love to leave the tractor and ATV there. I haul it back and forth. Short of building an underground bunker with a 2" thick steel door there is no way to stop a determined thief that has all week to work at it while I'm away
I sure wish I had power and a phoneline at my property, but then the particular county, Polk NC, I'm in has so many problems with the Sheriff's Dept lately, they'd likely be the ones stealing

Skyco,
Hey neighbor...

We should catch up.. I live in Polk County.

J

 

[WantedWolf]

FWIW I use the holes in my GN hitch provided for a padlock. but yeah it would make for a quick theft.

For truck and tractor I always wanted to build some sort of Flintstones driveshaft lock so it couldnt be towed or rolled even with brakes off in N.

How about wheel locks for the trailer. Is it a tandem or tridem axel?
I wont be able to explain in words but I working on a tire locking rig
Two triangles of steel (looking like wheel chocks) with a threaded rod to draw them tight together against the inside of both tires (like a clamp) Then A lock to keep the clamp from easily turning loose.

Like said, with time anything is stealable, as a concerned owner find a system with multiple lock points that in total takes you 5-10 mins to secure.
But would take a theif hours to disable. and with enough measures he might forget one and think hes done only to have the trailer still not roll.??

I dont know , these days you need to pile all your stuff in a cement compound and petrol it with firearms to be sure.
I thought rural areas were better for this but now I know better.

 

[George2615]

I use the simple hardened padlock for the gooseneck trailer. Also use a cable lock through the wheel spokes to prevent it from rolling. If theives want it bad enough they will get it. But any device that will slow them down is a theft deterrent since it will take more time to defeat the device.
If your trailer is parked for an extended time and the gooseneck mount is adjustable in height you could always slide it completely out throw it in the truck with you.

 

[newbury]

I'm facing plans for the same type problem.
I've several "remote" properties I want to put a 40' shipping container on for storage, remote workshop etc.
I figure heavy padlocks on the shipping container will discourage "wander by's", but to truly discourage theft I'll have to bury them and make a concrete/block front entrance.
Anti-personnel mines might help.

 

[wwalkersd]

Where exactly did you say I could find this unattended trailer and tractor? Be careful what you post on the internet! Anybody can read this forum!

I use a lock called a "Gooselock" for my horse trailer. I'm sure you can find it with a google search. Of course, this only locks the coupler. If your pylon has the typical sliding height adjustment, then a prepared thief could just loosen the bolts and remove the lower half with the coupler and install a new one. They also sell a lock that'll go over the pylon bolts, or even better is to have it tack-welded in place. That being said, nothing will stop a determined thief with time on his hands.

For the tractor, I'm thinking that if your wheels have slots between the hub and rim, a large chain going through both wheels and across the operator's platform might slow 'em down. You could also remove the battery pretty easily and take it with you (just don't forget to bring it back when you need it!). You always have to balance the level of protection against the level of inconvenience you're willing to tolerate. You could, for example, block up the tractor, remove all four wheels, and chain the wheels to the trailer. But that'd be a pain in the butt.

 

[radman1]

A man I used to know always left his horse trailer at his rural property, he removed both tires from one side everytime he left it and hauled them to his house. Kind of a pain, but it worked for him for years.
.

We have 5 irrigation motors mounted on carts. We used to just remove the wheels. 2 years ago, the thiefs brought their own tires and stole one. Now we remove the axles or take off the hubs. New motor was 6K. Actually, it worked out ok. The motor was getting near the end of life and the insurance paid for entire new motor. Maybe I should leave the tires on the ones I need to get rid of. I am trying to locate cement dividers used on highways. They weigh about 1500 lbs. The motors sit in huts in the fields. I want to just block the entrance to the huts with the cement dividers. Move the divider out of the way with pallet forks when I bring the motors inside in the fall. I have had batteries, starters, alternators, mufflers and gauges stolen. I buy cheap batteries specifically designed for irrigation motors. They typically only have lifespan of 2-3 years. The gasoline motors get hit the most often and diesels are typically left alone.

 

[JoeinTX]

Like you say, if somebody wants it bad enough they'll find a way to get it. But, most sub-human gutter thieves are looking for the quickest, easiest hauls so they often pass on the ones that look like time consumers.

For the trailer, a pad lock to block the ball hitch receiver is good. Possibly a tire boot? They are a little pricey but if it's important enough to you then they might be a good investment. How about removing some of the tires as to make it un-towable if you're not using it on a continuous basis?


As for the tractor, I have the same worries since I live in a semi-suburban area where all manner of traffic passes by each day and can see exactly what I have sitting about. I make mine the biggest piece of dead weight possible. It's a gasser, so I remove the main distributor wire when I'm not using it. I leave it hooked up to the biggest and heaviest implement I have when parked (my shredder.) I secure both of them to a giant oak tree with hardened chain and a padlock. And, I have it completely tarped down. Unless someone with the distributor wire for my tractor, cutting torch/electric shears, and a truck/trailer with a winch that can drag it all up on the bed comes along then they are going to have an effort for them. Combine that with the fact I have either police, sheriff, or neighbors who know who should and should not be around passing by every two hours or less on average.........and I've had no problems in 4 years.

 

[Mark Cline]

Over the last few years, I have had 2 of them stolen. The coupler locks that are on the market are useless, because the thief can remove the coupler and put his own coupler in its place and take the trailer. Over the last 3 years, I have designed and patented a lock that deals with these issues. We expect to be in full production by the end of November. I want to invite everyone to check out GanderLock and give me your feedback.

 

[Car Doc]

It's a gasser, so I remove the main distributor wire when I'm not using it.

Unless someone with the distributor wire for my tractor, .

It has plug wires doesn't it? (just saying)

I had some of my drinkin buddy's steal my coil wire at a bar one night thinking I couldn't get my truck started WRONG I used the #1 plug wire as a coil wire and ran it home on 7 cyls. :thumbsup:

Better to reroute the coil wire into one of the plug wire holes in the cap and visaversa only a real savy person will figure that out. hth (thats what I did to pay back my budds hehehe)

 

[RadarTech]

It has plug wires doesn't it? (just saying)

I had some of my drinkin buddy's steal my coil wire at a bar one night thinking I couldn't get my truck started WRONG I used the #1 plug wire as a coil wire and ran it home on 7 cyls. :thumbsup:

Better to reroute the coil wire into one of the plug wire holes in the cap and visaversa only a real savy person will figure that out. hth

if you're going to do it.. do it right....

tricks of the trade--
potato's and shaving cream up the tail pipe.. put a hole the tater that goes in the tailpipe-- it will blow shaving cream boms going down the road..
be sure and use the whole can..


pull the fuse to the fuel pump.
purposefully blow a fuse for the starter, and then put it in.
TAPE the good one up somewhere hard for a drunk to reach.


more upon request...


J

 

[Car Doc]

radar, I think he plans on still using it but could be wrong???

btw those are some pretty good ones glad you arnt one of my drinking buds I would have to watch you pretty close!!

 

[davkir]

Over the last few years, I have had 2 of them stolen. The coupler locks that are on the market are useless, because the thief can remove the coupler and put his own coupler in its place and take the trailer. Over the last 3 years, I have designed and patented a lock that deals with these issues. We expect to be in full production by the end of November. I want to invite everyone to check out GanderLock and give me your feedback.

I think this looks like a very effective product. I have purchased several locks over the years and am now using a homemade one. (But it, like all the ones I have purchased, can easily be defeated with a torch, abrasive chop saw or some even a hacksaw.)
A concern for me would be that not all gooseneck couplers are the same and I would be concerned about compatibility. (As an example, my current trailer doesn't use a pin and doesn't have holes for the lock bolts to extend out into.) I don't know if the tubing ID is all the same or not.
Based on others I have purchased, the price seems reasonable.

PS: It may be just me, but my Firefox browser has a problem with the plugins on the web site.

 

[RadarTech]

radar, I think he plans on still using it but could be wrong???

btw those are some pretty good ones glad you arnt one of my drinking buds I would have to watch you pretty close!!

All of those ideas are non destructive.. Trust me I know.....

My favorite is the fuel pump fuse.... Had a buddy struggle with that for 5 hours!


Of course back in the day, the best gag was liquid flux in the beverage your target was drinking. Eye drops don't work anymore........

Anyway…

That is my story and I'm sticking to it!

 

[Car Doc]

We could swap some good ones! This is off topic but wth...

I am a practical joker as well.... I took a lead pencil once and marked the coil tower down the side to the case on a sweet old 413 Chrysler 300 of an Italian coworker once.

He was a pretty salty old tech a true factory trained Ferrari mechanic even and he had bad hearing so he couldn't figure out what was wrong at first. I could hear it snapping from where I was watching he saw me laughing and then he started looking for the problem as something I did and got it fired up.

The next day I start my car up going home and I start getting bit from under my seat really hard shock and fast so I roll out fairly quickly didnt even shut the car off to find a plug wire had been ran under my floor mat thru a hole in my firewall and under my seat. We laughed about that one for quite awhile that was a good one.

 

[Mark Cline]

I think this looks like a very effective product. I have purchased several locks over the years and am now using a homemade one. (But it, like all the ones I have purchased, can easily be defeated with a torch, abrasive chop saw or some even a hacksaw.)
A concern for me would be that not all gooseneck couplers are the same and I would be concerned about compatibility. (As an example, my current trailer doesn't use a pin and doesn't have holes for the lock bolts to extend out into.) I don't know if the tubing ID is all the same or not.
Based on others I have purchased, the price seems reasonable.

PS: It may be just me, but my Firefox browser has a problem with the plugins on the web site.

In my research, I have found that most gooseneck trailers, even the older models, that were built by the major manufacturers have the same diameter receiving tube. The problem with the older models is that they don't have the holes for the safety pin. To over come this issue, we will be packaging the product with a template that you can use to mark the tube and drill holes that will make it work.

I will talk to my web page designer about Firefox and make sure that everything works properly. Thanks for your input.

 

[davkir]

In my research, I have found that most gooseneck trailers, even the older models, that were built by the major manufacturers have the same diameter receiving tube. The problem with the older models is that they don't have the holes for the safety pin. To over come this issue, we will be packaging the product with a template that you can use to mark the tube and drill holes that will make it work.

I will talk to my web page designer about Firefox and make sure that everything works properly. Thanks for your input.

If you're looking for someone to "Test" your lock and template on an older Adam trailer, I would be happy to try it out for you!
I'll donate the labor if you donate the lock!!!!!