Not sure if this'll help you much or not, Bill, but after bucking up about three dozen fallen trees over the last month or so, I've got a way I feel safer with. I like to start at the base of the tree and work up to take off the limbs that are too small for the stove. Anything smaller than about an inch and a half thick, I pile on the forks of the tractor until they're full, then dump them on the burn pile. I use the forks to compress the branches in the pile so they'll burn better. When the pile gets about 4' high, I light it, and subsequent loads of branches go right into the fire.
I cut the wood destined for the stove to length while it's still attached to the tree if I can. That keeps the chain from hitting the ground and going dull prematurely. If I need to, I'll lift the trunk with the forks to make room. I'll also use the forks to take the load off branches I'm trying to cut. Nothing worse than having something jump as the saw is moving through it. Once a big branch is off the trunk, I'll use the forks to position it as well, trying to get one end supported and the other free to drop when the cut is complete. When all the branches are off, I'll do the same with the trunk. Makes for a lot of jumping on and off the tractor, but getting stuff up off the ground saves bending over and getting a sore back.
If the branches are straight enough, I'll either pick them up and put them onto the sawbuck, or use the forks to move them there. But when they're twisting all over the place, I'll either buck them to length while they're still on the tree or move them around with the forks until I can cut them. I get nervous when the saw gets too close to the forks, though, and prefer to use the sawbuck when I can.
When the rounds get too big to pick up, I roll them onto the forks and let the tractor do the work of lifting. Right now it's all going into stacks, but when it comes time for splitting, I'll use the forks to move them over to the rail and roll the rounds into position. No more lifting heavy stuff for me, my back just can't take much of that bending over stuff anymore.
I've also learned to pay attention to what the kerf is doing behind the saw. If I see it start to narrow, I'll either stop the saw and start cutting from the other side of the limb/trunk, or drive in a wedge to keep the kerf open. I try to minimize the number of cuts I make in the middle of a limb or trunk, and instead cut them to stove length from the small end to the big end. Sometimes stuff is too far up in the air to do that, though, and I try to plan the cuts so that the weight will open the kerf instead of pinching it shut. I still screw up, though, and end up using the forks to open the kerf back up, or picking up another saw to cut enough weight off the limb/trunk to free up the first saw.
Another thing I pay attention to is what's around my feet. I like to be able to back away from a cut quickly if I need to, so I don't let branches or bucked lengths of wood accumulate on the ground. It's too easy to twist an ankle or lose my balance tripping over something, and that's not a good idea when the saw is running in my hand.
I really like the
Husqvarna helmet. The ear muffs are easy to adjust for a good fit, and they move out of the way easily when I don't need them. The face guard keeps branches and sawdust out of my eyes but I can still see what I'm doing through it. The headband is easily adjustable and has a built in pad to keep sweat out of my eyes. I had a Stihl helmet and the headband was never comfortable; it gave me headaches after a while. I wasn't sad when I mistakenly crushed that helmet with the FEL one day.:laughing:
And after my neighbor's accident, I'm using the chainsaw chaps again. They are hot, but it's better than having to walk around in circles because one leg is shorter than the other.:laughing: