RedNeckGeek
Super Member
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2011
- Messages
- 8,754
- Location
- Butte County & Orcutt, California
- Tractor
- Kubota M62, Kubota L3240D HST (SOLD!), Kubota RTV900
Remember Ray Bradbury's 451 Fahrenheit? 451F is supposed to be the temperature at which paper ignites, but it starts to char at a little over 350F, at least according to the safe man I spoke with. It's also the temperature at which wood starts to char, plastic melts or warps, and "blue" on firearms is destroyed. And 1800F is significant because that turns out to be the temperature when steel starts to soften and warp, which compromises the integrity of the safe body. Once the door seal is broken, hot gasses can enter the interior of the safe and destroy the contents. So what I'm learning is to pick a safe with at least an 1800F temperature rating, and as long a time rating as you can find. Then place the safe on an outside wall, so when the burning house or building collapses, there won't be as much fuel around it, hopefully reducing both the temperature and the time the safe spends soaking in high temperatures.
Security wise, a strong frame around the door, coupled with a very tight fit, pretty much eliminates being able to pry the door open. The safe man gave one of his safes to the local fire department, who then used their hydraulic spreaders and "jaws of life" to try and open it. They failed. They did manage to get in using their giant chainsaw engine driven abrasive cutter, but it took 'em a while.:laughing: And they had to go in through the body, as the bolts are designed to spin if hit by an abrasive wheel or saw, and the door has more than an inch of steel to get through.
The other lesson is that the budget for the safe should reflect the value of what it will store. If all you need is to keep little fingers off your 10/22, you'll be fine with something from the gun store or Costco. The family jewels or grandpa's Purdey are a different story, though.
