jyoutz
Super Member
When I used to heat exclusively with wood, I would burn both hardwoods and softwoods. The key to reducing creosote problems is how you burn the wood. I used to start the fire with split pine, then burn pine and fir to get the fire roaring to heat up the house quickly. If you burn hot with full open air vent and damper open, the softwoods don’t produce creosote and nothing heats the house quicker than pine/fir. Then I let them burn down to coals, and add the hardwood logs. Once they are burning good, I close down the air/damper to slow the burn for overnight. I have never had creosote problems by burning this way. But if you try to burn softwoods slow overnight, that’s when the creosote starts forming in the chimney.Yes, one side only. It's a really nice tool to use. 6 lb. is about right for me. If you know your wood, splitting by hand is pretty easy. Our local white oak and bigleaf maple split best when they are green. Madrone checks so badly it almost splits itself, so I stack it and wait for it to dry before splitting. The only time I have ever wished for a power splitter was when I got stuck with a bunch of 3' maple rounds. I had to split shakes off the outside to get it small enough to split through. Horsing them to the splitter would have been a task, though.
I don't burn soft woods in the stove because I don't want to deal with the creosote. Cedar and fir are good in the outdoor fire pit, as long as they are dry enough to not spit a lot of sparks.
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