Generator Transfer switch connection choices

[Ford850]

Are you serviced by the co-op in Guernsey County? If so, check this link and give them a call. GenerLink Safety Device | gmenergy.com
My co-op had purchase and rent-to-own options when I looked into it a couple years ago. And they installed them no charge.

Here's the Generlink prices including cables and installation from my co-op:
GenerLink devices may be purchased by members and installation at the home's electric meter is FREE. The cooperative offers a 12 month interest free payment plan, and purchase is as follows:

$660 — GenerLink 30Amp Non-Surge MA23-N with 20 ft. GenerLok Cable
$720 — GenerLink 30Amp Non-Surge MA23-N with 40 ft. GenerLok Cable
$750 — GenerLink 30Amp Surge MA23-S with 20 ft. GenerLok Cable
$810 — GenerLink 30Amp Surge MA23-S with 40 ft. GenerLok Cable
$930 — GenerLink 30Amp Surge MA23-S with 80 ft. GenerLok Cable
$870 — GenerLink 40Amp Surge MA23-S with 20 ft. GenerLok Cable

 

[aczlan]

$600-700 for the 30 amp model. $200 more for the 50 amp model. Sources:
GenerLink | South Central Power Company
https://www.lcec.net/my-home/products-and-services/generlink

Aaron Z

 

[MMagis]

Thanks. I do have service through the GMEC co-op. Now that I think a little more, I think I looked into this exact thing a couple years ago when they advertised it through the co-op magazine. I remember it being around $700. Need to get it done, other things just keep coming up.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Misunderstood OP. How do you delete post?

 

[Xfaxman]

Misunderstood OP. How do you delete post?

On a computer, click Edit, click delete, click box for delete message and click delete.

 

[daybreak1998]

Howdy,
No, some information does not change. A transfer switch of some type should be used between your generator and your house. The only exception would be a generator and a bunch of extension cords running in your door to your appliances you want running.

 

[daybreak1998]

Howdy,
Yes, I have had the Generlink for almost 7 years now. It works fine. I have never had any issues with it.

 

[Texasmark]

I bought a Generac brand in Feb 2014. I bought the Generac transfer switch for 2 reasons:

1. With the switch there is no physical way I can electrocute a lineman with feedback from the unit down the input power line.

2. My breaker box is not the single interrupt switched type. Back when I built my house you could have the 6 switch system where you had 5 mains for high power circuits and one 60 A for low power household circuits. That means 6 switches are needed to transfer power rather than one and I didn't want to chance goofing on that switchover at 2am on a cold winter morning with a storm on top of me.

 

[DieselBound]

I'm in the process of implementing an interlock setup. It wasn't until I stumbled across this solution that I could figure out how to provide emergency power to all my buildings. I have a main service panel that's outside -it's a manufactured home- that feeds the house (manufactured home), pump house and shed. Best I could tell there was no way a transfer box was going to be able to handle all of this: the house is 100amp; no way to break that out into individual circuits on the front side. I've now since had a garage built and it's pulling power from this same service panel, which means that it too can be supplied with emergency power; initially I was going to go with a new service feed, but due to technical issues and cost I opted to serve it via a sub-panel; this now allows me to locate my freezers to this building.

Not automatic, but I'll have my bases covered. Don't consume a lot of electricity. I figured that a 7.5kW generator would suffice: picked up an old Onan with a Kubota diesel; only 650 hrs.

Anyway, I thought it would be good to provide a case in which a transfer box couldn't cover what was needed. And for me, I was once cursing this stupid, manufactured home, electrical arrangement, but am now actually feeling that it turned out to be a blessing (with the "advent" of the interlock solution).

NOTE: My local utility company recognizes, and approves of interlocks. Same with my electrician: I'm having him do the wiring (I take care of all non-critical outbuilding wiring).

 

[DieselBound]

1. With the switch there is no physical way I can electrocute a lineman with feedback from the unit down the input power line.

There is, but one would have to do some really stupid stuff to do so.

I've read anti-interlock folks stressing that one can open up the box, the face plate, and flip breakers. Clearly this is true, but this would be intentional, and actions of such are pretty hard to defeat. The point is that under normal operations (not the case of malice) feedback cannot occur. Also note that in most cases, not saying ALL, someone's little generator ain't going to be filling power lines up (and linemen's protocol is to always test for live voltages- yes, someone could come along and flip something, but in most cases the window in which this would have an effect is small; line segments tend to be isolated during repair- today's protocols are a lot more safe).

 

[buickanddeere]

There is, but one would have to do some really stupid stuff to do so.

I've read anti-interlock folks stressing that one can open up the box, the face plate, and flip breakers. Clearly this is true, but this would be intentional, and actions of such are pretty hard to defeat. The point is that under normal operations (not the case of malice) feedback cannot occur. Also note that in most cases, not saying ALL, someone's little generator ain't going to be filling power lines up (and linemen's protocol is to always test for live voltages- yes, someone could come along and flip something, but in most cases the window in which this would have an effect is small; line segments tend to be isolated during repair- today's protocols are a lot more safe).

Still does not make back feeding into the utility with a generator acceptable .

 

[DieselBound]

Still does not make back feeding into the utility with a generator acceptable .

Not sure where I said it could be acceptable. Just stating facts (and reality).

 

[grsthegreat]

And those deadfront mounted interlocks mert both nec and ul ratings, so all is good

 

[daybreak1998]

Howdy,

Interlock = The interlock is made to stay in place whether the front panel is on or off. It is just more than a slide piece of metal. The manufacturer has the entire panel and interlock device submitted for UL certification. That is why I have said it makes it easier if you have a main line (larger main stream company) service panel. I do know Square D, GE, Cutler-Hammer, Milbank, Challenger, Murray, Siemens have approved interlocks.

If you have a older service panel, or smaller service, and are upgrading. It might be easier to buy a new service panel, and interlock kit, and go from there.

 

[daybreak1998]

Howdy,
The information is the same today as it was when the thread was started.

Whatever your generator size, hook it up correctly. :thumbsup:

 

[daybreak1998]

Howdy,

The information is still current.

There are many ways to hook up a generator. There will always be debates about someone back-feeding a panel. Doing the proper safe way is always better for all.
Whatever your generator size, hook it up correctly :thumbsup:

 

[daybreak1998]

Howdy,

It does not add tons of cost to connect a generator properly. A full blown transfer switch, a Generlink collar, other approved meter collar systems, a generator break-out box, a UL approved inter-lock for your service panel, or the different kirk-key options out there.

The idea is to have it safe for all involved.

 

[fried1765]

Howdy,

It does not add tons of cost to connect a generator properly. A full blown transfer switch, a Generlink collar, other approved meter collar systems, a generator break-out box, a UL approved inter-lock for your service panel, or the different kirk-key options out there.

The idea is to have it safe for all involved.

Does anyone on here have a homeowner service entrance panel with a second separate cover on the actual service entrance itself, inside the panel box ( If you live in Canada you do ).

As far as I know this is not required by the NEC.

That said: It IS REQUIRED in Canada! (CSA)
Service entrance panels sold in the USA cannot be used in Canada.
Simply not safe enough!

More covers make it safer? Right?

Perhaps the whole panel should be housed in a Mosler safe.
That would make it safer yet.

 

[TheMan419]

Does anyone on here have a homeowner service entrance panel with a second separate cover on the actual service entrance itself, inside the panel box ( If you live in Canada you do ).

As far as I know this is not required by the NEC.

That said: It IS REQUIRED in Canada! (CSA)
Service entrance panels sold in the USA cannot be used in Canada.
Simply not safe enough!

More covers make it safer? Right?

Perhaps the whole panel should be housed in a Mosler safe.
That would make it safer yet.

I just have two regular looking panels. One much smaller. I have two switches I have to flip. Built in such a way only one can be on at a time. Easy enough for SWMBO to operate and not be worried about electrocuting anyone. B

 

[newbury]

Howdy,

It does not add tons of cost to connect a generator properly. A full blown transfer switch, a Generlink collar, other approved meter collar systems, a generator break-out box, a UL approved inter-lock for your service panel, or the different kirk-key options out there.

The idea is to have it safe for all involved.

But can you quantify "tons" in terms of dollars?
I'm also in Northern Virginia. To hook up my generator to the house with a transfer switch requires inspection, electrician, possibly a new panel. I've lived here since 1975. I've had 2 major power outages in that time. I've had a generator for the house since 2003 after Hurricane Irma (the second major power outage). The generator has been run once for a power outage that lasted about 6 to 8 hours during the heat of the summer and I wanted to make sure a freezer full of meat did not thaw and fired it up after 6 hours. It was about time to run the generator anyways. So I fired it up drug the extension cords and when the freezer and frig finished cooling down (maybe 20 minutes) turned it off.
I used to test it about quarterly with a load, but that has gotten down to annually.
So to spend hundreds of dollars for a "proper hookup" may not make sense to a lot of people.