GC 2310 TLB front axel

[Mattmotors]

I'm getting ready to change the fluid in my front axel . Read the book but feel it would be a little easier to fill it thru a bigger opening as opposed to thru the two plugs on top on either end as the book says. My question is how to get the big plastic cap off with out destroying it? Special tool of channel locks. Should I buy an extra cap to have on hand? Thanks , Matt.

 

[GeneV]

I hate that plug for the very reason you're worried about it! I used channel locks and was careful where I placed the jaws, that way I was able to unscrew it w/o damaging it...to much.

 

[JWR]

There's a way better solution: don't change that oil. What makes you think it is desirable much less necessary?

 

[Mattmotors]

650 hours on the machine

 

[Dmacleo]

on multiple machines I have used channel locks that expand enough to not crush tabs on the vent/fill plug (its also a vent) many many times.
gc2400, gc1710,gc1723,gc1725,MF1532.....you get the idea

 

[hube2]

I'm confused, that's where I fill mine from.

I have a set of pliers, don't remember what they're called and it's too cold out to go out to the shed just to get the name. They were made by Craftsman, they are like channel lock, but they auto adjust to whatever you put them on. They were advertised on TV many years ago. Not even sure you can get them any more.

But I also have a spare vent plug sitting on a shelf, just in case.

 

[hube2]

Found it online "RoboGrip", probably one of the best tools I've ever purchased.

 

[irvingj]

Those plugs are pretty easy to put on cross-threaded, which I suspect more often than not occurs during assembly. My axle plug was/is OK, but my main hydraulic fill plug in the back was a b^%^ch to get off. Replaced it years ago. Keep in mind those plugs are vented....

 

[DMW]

Channel locks on the body of the plug work well. Don't use those protruding ridges, they will break. To replace, thread on by hand, tighten with pliers if you want, do not torque it on, it is just a plastic plug.
Raise the front end with the loader so the axle swings free. You will need to pivot the axle to fully drain the 4 quarts of used oil from both sides. Measure how much comes out, replace with equivalent amount, then check level before adding any more. It's probably the easiest maintenance to do on the tractor.
Notice your ball joint boot is torn, so has mine for 10+ years. They are not cheap to replace, also time consuming. No guarantee on how long the new one will last, 10 days or 10 years. Been slathering mine with fluid film for years now, figure the ball joint replacement will be cheaper in the long run, rather than replacing the boot every time it tears.

 

[hube2]

I don't know if this matters....

The bottom of the plug is angled. Mine has a red dot of paint on the plug. This dot on the top of the plug directly above the longest part of the plug. I assume that the dealer put this dot of paint on the plug as the new one does not have it. This dot on the plug was positioned pointing to the outside of the axle when I got the tractor. Also assuming that this was done so that the angle of the plug was orientated to match the angle of the bevel gear directly below it.

I don't have a clue it this is necessary or not and nothing in the manuals mentions it. I figured I was better safe than sorry so I tighten the plug so that it is the same way the dealer delivered it to me.