Garden Tractor Capabilities

[LyleB]

Guess most of the posts on this site are about compacts rather than "garden tractors", but I'm hoping someone can answer my question. I'm trying to determine whether a garden tractor will handle mowing chores on rural property I own. It's in the Post Oak savannah region of TX. Soil is sandy with some clay. Mostly wooded but areas of tall grass & weeds. The ground is irregular, but no rocks. Lots of high & low spots. Best I can tell it's from ants or some sort of subterranean insects or varmints. Little mounds everywhere. So back to the point...Will a garden tractor like those sold at Sears, Home Depot, Lowes, etc. such as Craftsman, Troybilt, JD130, Poulan, Cub Cadet, Simplicity, Ariens, say with around a 25 hp twin (Kohler or B&S) and maybe a 48" deck knock down weeds & tall (6" - 18") grass or are they only good for lawns? I can't afford a larger machine with rear PTO for shredder right now so am looking for something in the interim. I was thinking of something like one of these mentioned above, but don't know if they'll handle the terrain and vegetation. I rented a Billy Goat brush mower to take down some of the really tall stuff figuring that perhaps if it was knocked down, a garden tractor would be sufficient for maintenance purposes if I kept on top of things. I don't want to spend $2500 if it can't cut the mustard. Thanks.

 

[JDgreen227]

Welcome to TBN, the best tractor website of them all. For 13 years I mowed a five acre lot and enlarged it a little every year with an 18hp John Deere with a 50 inch deck. When I wanted to enlarge my yard it required cutting down two foot high grass and weeds, all I had to do was prop the chute deflector up with a rubber strap, run the engine full throttle and cut about a strip of grass about 18 inches wide per pass. Any more than that would either clog the discharge chute or stall the motor. So yes, you basically can clear tall grass with a little engine but likely shorten the service life. Get an absolute minimum of a twin cylinder with 25 hp--Kohler would be my choice over Briggs. I have nothing but praise for my 1400-plus hour JD 318--they are built like a tank and there are many low hour models for sale in the $2500 price range.
If it were me, I would not want to buy a brand new garden tractor and start using it for lot clearing purposes but that's your choice. Good luck !!

 

[yellowsocks93]

318s are really good or if you can't find one of them you may be able to get a JD 320 with higher hours too.

 

[8NTX]

I would think that a garden tractor that size would work. Even my cheap little MTD 17 hp with 42" deck does a pretty good job on fairly tall grass and small brush. After two years of abuse it's still going. BTW, $2500 is what I spent on my 8N with 5 ft. brush cutter. This rig handles 2-3" saplings and heavy brush with ease. And lots more fun than a "lawn mower".

 

[Bird]

Lyle, I've done that sort of thing with both a Cub Cadet (11hp Kohler single cylinder and 38" deck) and a Craftsman (21hp Briggs twin cylinder and 42" deck). Slower than using a tractor, of course, but you can do it without damaging the equipment if you take your time.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

For almost 7 years I mowed about 4 acres exclusively with a 18hp Cub Cadet, the land was reclaimed farm fields that had been neglected. You can mow down tall grass (36" to 60" tall) with a lawn tractor if you work at it slowly and carefully, take passes that are only 50% tall grass and 50% mowed already, etc.

I think you will find that the higher priced garden tractors at tractor dealers will hold up better than the lower priced ones from the superstores, because they are typically a bit heavier built. However, it is amazing what the little things can do. I've got more hours on the little Cub Cadet than the other tractors and it is still holding up well.

 

[frank_f15]

u can do it with that type machine, just have to take smaller bites, go slow and try not to let it get too tall. my 18hp craftsman will do all that would just take longer than the b2400. also another thing i found helpful, was to cut once with blades as high as can be then go over it with blades lower. remeber that going slow in these situations is the better choice.

 

[txdon]

LyleB, My place is also in the Texas Post Oak Savannahs. Are you close to Lee County? If your land is not too hilly and the vegetation covers the sand sufficiently and the gopher mounds and the harvester ant hills are not too large and you get a mower with as big of wheels as possible and go slow you will be OK. My land has mostly all the above and for my first mower I went with a belly mower on a Farmall A. A few expensive repairs (because it was a 60 year old tractor) but got the job done.
TXDon

 

[JazzDad]

Hey, Lyle. As everyone else had mentioned; it will work if you take it SLOW. Just this last Saturday I was mowing some of my Post Oak Savannah with an MTD 18HP, 48" deck. I just set the HST to nearly the slowest it will move and it will cut the tall grass. Of course, the mole hills will dull the blades if you run over them.

 

[songhunter]

LyleB,
My dad kept a couple of acres nicely cut for about 11 years with an MTD-made mower from Lowe's. That was even after he dropped a tree on it the first week he had it. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

The tractor finally was retired when it became very difficult to steer. My dad ran it into a ditch and bent the front axle beyond reasonable repair.

If you have a concern about whether it will fit your application, why not buy an inexpensive used lawn mower (Ford YT16H, Case 444, Ingersol, etc.) to see how it does? If it works okay, you've saved a couple of grand. I've sold really nice tractors that size for about $500. If it doesn't work well, sell it and get your money back.

Just a thought. I often have to look for the cheapest workable solution. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif