Garage floor: Sealer or epoxy?

[Soundguy]

the 'fake sand' for my stuf had to be mixed into the can.. etc. not sure about others.

soundguy

 

[jtheys]

Just installed Epoxy Coat in my 3 car garage this past weekend. It went on great. Highly impressed. It is slick as all get out, but beautiful. I put a clear layer over the base coat and flakes, so man is it shiny. It is kind of blinding when the sun hits it. I have a suspended garage floor and wanted to put the epoxy down to combat any salt the vehicles will carry in. I think it was well worth the investment. My 3-car garage cost about $800 to Epoxy-coat.

As others have said, floor prep is everything. It took me 3 times the time to prep the concrete than actually install the epoxy.

 

[ray66v]

"into the wet epoxy as it is being applied" Is that also how the anti-slip SAND is applied? Just hand toss on top of the wet paint?
Thanks, Not wanting to bust my butt.

Yes, the best way to apply flakes or sand, is to toss it in the wet paint.

You want to carefully toss small amounts up into the air and let it rain down into the paint. This gives the most even coverage.

They sell spiked sandals you can use to walk in the wet areas, which are also helpful, but if you plan it right, you won't need them.

The spiked sandals are the same ones they sell at places like Harbor freight, to "aerate" your lawn, and can be bought for less money.

Lawn Aerator Shoes - Improvements Catalog

 

[radioman]

"into the wet epoxy as it is being applied" Is that also how the anti-slip SAND is applied? Just hand toss on top of the wet paint?
Thanks, Not wanting to bust my butt.

you mix it in the can before rolling on.

The paint chips I sprinkled in as my brother rolled on the epoxy-I followed right behind him. Let it dry for a day and then put on two coats of clear.

I am confused here. I thought paint chips is to prevent slippage- the clear coat just makes the whole thing slippery again so it should have been applied DURING the last clear coating for slippage control.

 

[Soundguy]

i thought the piant flecks were jst for decoration... and the grit addative was for slippage.. at least on my can it shows that.

soundguy

 

[ray66v]

I am confused here. I thought paint chips is to prevent slippage- the clear coat just makes the whole thing slippery again so it should have been applied DURING the last clear coating for slippage control.

Yes the paint chips will help reduce slippage, but only if they are applied on the surface. If you put them under the clear, they will become strictly decorative.

From the manufacturers Q&A section:
12. What are the flake chips for?
A: They help with nonskid and help hide imperfections in the floor by adding a decorative look.

The primary anti slip product is the sand. The chips are not as effective, and dependent on how much you apply.

Epoxy Coat will sell you clear coat if you want to use it, but unlike other products, Epoxy Coat finish is very high gloss without it, and they will tell you it is not necessary. The main benefit of the clear would be the additional millage will result in a smoother looking floor.

 

[Soundguy]

IMHO.. for the price of the clear.. I'd go with another coat of paint.. that's just me though.

soundguy

 

[jtheys]

The clear coat I used is the exact same epoxy as the base coat, without the tint of color. So it is the same as another coat.

 

[ray66v]

The clear coat I used is the exact same epoxy as the base coat, without the tint of color. So it is the same as another coat.

That's true.

Since Epoxy Coat can be applied up to 1/2" thick in one coat, if you just want millage, it is easier, and faster to apply a heavy coat of color once, rather than a separate color and clear coat with 18-24 hrs. between.

However, some floors may not allow you to apply material really heavy in a single coat, due to slope, and groves. Then you would have to do multiple coats if you want it really thick.

I used a 500 sq ft kit, in a 475 sq ft garage. And it was sufficient for the job. But, I would have added an extra qt. if I had it on hand.

This is another thing I liked about Epoxy Coat, they offer their product in 2 smaller quantities, for such occasions, and later touch ups.

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. so far my covered lania is holding up great.. I did 3 coats on mine. standing up to dogs and foot traffic after a few years.

soundguy

That's true.

Since Epoxy Coat can be applied up to 1/2" thick in one coat, if you just want millage, it is easier, and faster to apply a heavy coat of color once, rather than a separate color and clear coat with 18-24 hrs. between.

However, some floors may not allow you to apply material really heavy in a single coat, due to slope, and groves. Then you would have to do multiple coats if you want it really thick.

I used a 500 sq ft kit, in a 475 sq ft garage. And it was sufficient for the job. But, I would have added an extra qt. if I had it on hand.

This is another thing I liked about Epoxy Coat, they offer their product in 2 smaller quantities, for such occasions, and later touch ups.

 

[Boeing]

How long should I wait to seal/paint a NEW concrete floor? How long does it take for CRACKS to show up on a NEW concrete floor? and they WILL occur...as sure as "change is coming":ashamed:

 

[Danno1]

.


30 days min for paint/sealer.

Cracks? Could be days, could be years.


.

 

[dodge man]

I used some stuff I bought off the shelf, I think Rust Oleum brand. It was a two part epoxy and not cheap. It really hasn't held up that well, but I didn't do a very good job on the prep. I had already painted my floor with a cheap paint, and didn't strip the old paint off, just power washed it off. It had the color chips I sprinkeled on the wet paint, and it does keep it from being slick. If I had to do it all over again, I just leave the natural concrete.

 

[RPW]

In the process of builing my barn with a concrete slab. Am planning on using the epoxy on it. I've already got a minor crack and I figure that by doing the epoxy I'll keep from getting any more cracks. I can understand the cracks in this Texas heat wave. I had asked the concrete people if I should have either covered or sprayed water on the concrete for the first few days to slow the curing and they said no. I wonder if my gut was right.

 

[orezok]

I've read that moisture in the concrete before applying the coating is about the biggest problem there is. And, if it's new concrete, it's prob still damp? There have ways to check it; you should research them as I can't recall how.

I wanted to paint our garage floor, & after reading so many horror stories of the coatings peeling, chipping, etc., I decided it wasn't worth the gamble/ money/ effort/ time, etc. Doesn't look that bad as-is, & could certainly look worse.

The flooring we use on our schools requires that moisture is below a certain percent before we place. We use a test pack that basically contains salt and it is taped to the floor for 48 hours. It's then weighed and the amount of moisture is determined. The tests are not cheap so as a pre-test, we just tape a foot square piece of poly sheet to the floor with duct tape. Let it sit for 48 hours and if you see any moisture on the plastic, it's probably too high.

 

[jamtuc]

We just epoxied our hanger floor here at work. I have not read all the other posts yet but will throw in my 2 cents.
1.Make sure the concrete is dry enough. If you tape down a piece of clear plastic it should not gather moisture under it.
2. Use the higher priced 2 part epoxy paint. The single stage paint comes up when you drive on it.
3. Ensure if you put the sealer on that it is epoxy based sealer. Somehow the guy who picked up the sealer got a water based sealer (which is what Lowes gave him) oil goes right through the sealer stops at the epoxy and you end up with a stain you cant get out.

 

[Boeing]

EPOXY SEALER???
I looked at the beautiful epoxy paint photos, they are quite beautiful.
I recall from corporate jet hangars that shiny equals....slick. If you add the non-skid or sand you lose the shiny.
I checked on the prices of the epoxies, we're looking at at least $500 for my 960'. Sealers are much less expensive and I THINK, not slick.
The last post referred to EPOXY SEALER....which I can't understand....
Please help me out here.
BTW, this is for a 24X40 shop/garage tractor driving on it....maybe some water and mud drips.

 

[Soundguy]

I have the epoxy paint with a traction mod.. it's shiney and not slipery.

it's not a sand.. it's a granulated plastic as far as I know..

soundguy

 

[SPIKER]

Today was the 1st full day of drying for my water based concrete sealer (I used the Rustoleum Brand of stain and sealers.) I wanted more Blue in the floor but it is mostly a green over the Pewter base color. It turned out not really all that transparency as far as the stain goes but came out OK. We had some issues with the way we acid etched the floor. I used two 5 gallon buckets and we moped the floor with heavy cotton mops. where the buckets sat there are rings in the floor due to the acid splash over and the buckets holding the acid concentrated against them. it was/is a pewter semi-transparent base stain with a turquoise/patina over-spray. when mixed it looked pretty good but ended up turning green aver top the Pewter. I wanted more of a slate blueish color but I think I can get used to the grey/grass color. It has 2 coats of clear sealer on top with the anti-skid stuff in the walking paths inside the barn. it is still has a good shine but spraying the sealer there was no real good way to get the sealer only where I wanted it so I ended up putting it onto a paper plate and blowing over the plate while stepping backwards to get the most even pattern I could. I sprayed the sealer over the top of the anti-skid and except for a couple places where the anti-skid got too much in one spot it was good. the heavy spots of anti-skid appear white in the sealer but it is good & anti-skid...
I added photos and a couple moves to see pour & finish and the prep...
Mark http://s87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/WPSPIKER/BARN photos/

 

[Boeing]

That's one beautiful barm Striker.
Question, with NEW concrete do I need to "acid wash" prior to sealing?
I'm thinking a sealer with transparent color added.
Thanks, Rob:thumbsup: