Garage floor: Sealer or epoxy?
- Thread starter SailTrac
- Start date
SPIKER
Elite Member
There is at least one type of sealer/stain that is put on the concrete when finishing it that is very good and actually creates a stain/coloration into the wet concrete. ZYPEX if I remember right (something like that) from a few years back that is a dry power that is sprinkled in and trowed on the finish trowel job that seals and stains it.
but for the most part after dried the surface should be etched prior to staining to help open up the pores of the concrete.
mark M
Boeing
Platinum Member
OK, So, now I need to acid mop
It's too late to do the powder seal while pouring, it's poured and dry. (and ALMOST level)
About this acid wash.....how long does IT have to dry before I can apply sealer/stain? I usually only have a few days up there so if it needs a long dry time is it OK to acid it and came back next spring for the sealer? I presume that sealer/stain needs to be 50 degrees or so to apply and it will be too cold soon.
Thanks for all the answers:confused2:
It's too late to do the powder seal while pouring, it's poured and dry. (and ALMOST level
)About this acid wash.....how long does IT have to dry before I can apply sealer/stain? I usually only have a few days up there so if it needs a long dry time is it OK to acid it and came back next spring for the sealer? I presume that sealer/stain needs to be 50 degrees or so to apply and it will be too cold soon.
Thanks for all the answers:confused2:
Soundguy
Old Timer
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when I did my acid etch, I sprayed on, let it set till it stopped bubbling, then rinsed it off.. did this in early morning.. by late afternoon the sun and heat had dried it out like it had never been wet.. I painted over it and it's held up fine.. if you had 2 days.. it wouldn't hurt to wait longer. I'm in fl so had plenty of sun to help..
soundguy
soundguy
SPIKER
Elite Member
spraying the acid will work probably a bit better, the mopping worked well just left bucket rings where it sloshed acid over and held it to the bucket base. it needs to be rinsed well as above stated after the bubbling is all done it can be rinsed off. I did a double rinse after it. then used squeegee to get most of the water up and then shop vac over the top to dry more. left it dry for a week then stained it. waited a couple days then clear sealer...
MARK
MARK
crbr
Veteran Member
No, not if you have a new placement with nothing on it (what I understand as new).
The reason to acid etch or scarify is to remove any surface sealer (or other contaminants) so the epoxy will bond and adhere to the concrete. That is what a lot of folks do not consider when placing the surface sealer on a floor slab, i.e., "Will I ever want to add a floor cover on top of this sealer?"
What would you be etching away from a new surface? Nothing...
And in my opinion, a surface sealer adds very little value of usefulness to a concrete placement. Subsurface is the way I have always sealed concrete for reasons other than looks.
.
Boeing
Platinum Member
CRBR.....won't a sealer allow me to "wipe" up oil drips and wash off mud without it staining the concrete floor? That's all I'm looking for.
Thanks
Thanks
Soundguy
Old Timer
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yep, paint or sealer on a floor keeps dripped gunk from getting into the porous concrete..
soundguy
soundguy
SPIKER
Elite Member
there are several reasons to seal, mostly to prevent oils from penetrating the concrete surface and leaving a blackened spot...
the reason to acid etch the surface is to let the stain or epoxy to bond and penetrate into the concrete surface and really bite into it. the NEW surface is the new surface is actually very smooth (depending on how the surface was troweled or brushed) and can be smooth enough to prevent a good grip by the paint/stain/epoxy. I would not use paint unless you like to keep painting & dealing with chips over the years ... stain last a long time but you need to add clear sealer on top and or a wax to seal it.
the epoxy is probably best way to get a consistent color and set. it is about 1.5X the costs though..
mark
Boeing
Platinum Member
Last question on the sealer (I promise)
As I recall sealer is thin like gas....too thin to pour and squeegee, it just soaks in almost immediantly. So, is a roller the best bet and just a fast roll to go farther or slow roll to really soak it in?
I DO NOT want oil drips etc to stain the floor.
Thanks
As I recall sealer is thin like gas....too thin to pour and squeegee, it just soaks in almost immediantly. So, is a roller the best bet and just a fast roll to go farther or slow roll to really soak it in?
I DO NOT want oil drips etc to stain the floor.
Thanks