Oil & Fuel Fuel Problem???

[donb1963]

I have a Jinma 180 that dates back to 1996. It ran fine until last week. I increased the engine RPM's and the engine just lost power and died. It was low on fuel so I put in more fuel. It tried to crank but didn't. Starting fluid started the motor until it ran out. I have checked the fuel to the injector pump from the tank and have a good flow. I'm waiting on fuel filters to arrive to change them. Is there anything else I can check that may be the problem? This is the first fuel problem I've had since I bought the tractor new 8 years ago. I don't ever recall the filters being replaced so that's my starting point.

 

[SPIKER]

have you cracked all the injectors and PUMPED the hand pump to bleed the fuel system? you will need to open one of the injector lines above the fuel pump and there is a small hand piston type pump on the side of the injector (IF it is like the newier ones) which is used to prime the injector pump and the fuel filter system. one reason to NEVER run out of fuel is this is a PITA to do. it takes a while too. when replaceing the fuel filter be sure to fill the new filter with fuel befor you put it on. they do not need much fuel as you are well aware and flow is very little out of the pump into the injector lines only like drops per rev. this means that you have to crank longer than should be donw if it runs out if you don't bleed it using the hand piston type pump. it unscrews and has a spring under the knob which pushes up the piston and you push it back down... remember it needs to have a line cracked for flow of fuel to get going or else you are only pushing fuel back into the tank through the bypass hose and not getting it up to the injectors.

MarkM /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[greg_g]

Sounds like air lock in the hard lines between the injector pump and the injectors. The hand (priming) pump will only get fuel TO the injection pump, not through it. It's a little confusing, because the fuel pump and injection pump are actually two halves of a single unit. The fuel flow is; tank > sediment bowl > fuel pump > fuel filter > injection pump > injectors.

Locate the line between the fuel filter housing and the injection pump. Loosen the banjo bolt at the pump end. Prime with the hand pump till bubbles around the loosened banjo bolt change to a steady fuel flow. Tighten the banjo bolt, screw down the primer pump.

Use a line wrench to loosen the hard lines at the top - the injector end. Half a turn is usually enough. Now crank the engine till escaping bubbles turn to fuel flow. Unlike the steady flow you observed below, the flow into the injectors is intermittent. This is normal. Tighten down the hard lines, start the tractor with your usual procedure.

If that doesn't work, you may have fouled your injectors.

//greg//

 

[SevenCorners]

I wanted to chime in here, priming these engines is a pain! I pumped for at least an hour and still had an air lock, I finally solved it by cracking all fittings one by one and pumping as each fitting was cracked. My air lock was on last fitting before the hard lines, you can hear air escaping.

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( My air lock was on last fitting before the hard lines, you can hear air escaping)</font>

If I understand you correctly, the last fitting before the hardlines is the banjo fitting on the injection pump end of the fuel filter hose. When fuel is hand-pumped to that point, it should bypass the injection pump and flow back into the tank via the bypass line. An air lock at that location suggests a blocked bypass hose line.

See the attached diagram. Red 1-4 represent low pressure fuel flow when the hand primer pump is used.
1 - fuel tank to fuel pump
2 - fuel pump to fuel filter
3 - fuel filter to injection pump
4 - injection pump bypass line (back to fuel tank)
Once the injection pump HAS fuel, it pressurizes it and sends timed spurts up the hardlines (blue 5).

So when the tractor is not running and the hand primer is used, the fuel flow is Red 1-2-3-4. When the tractor is running, the fuel flow is Red 1-2-3>Blue 5, with excess fuel returning to the tank via Red 4.

That help?

//greg//

 

[donb1963]

Well I got my filters in and replaced them as well as replacing one of the fuel lines. It finally cranked up after using ether and running all of the air out of the lines until it ran by itself with a load on the engine. It cranked up fine six straight times after I initially got it going again. My primer is froze up and won't pump. Has anyone had any experience with this problem and is there a way to free it up without taking the pump apart to do it? The filter was the original so it was pretty torn up and the primer has only been used when the tractor was new in 1996. I also have a very slight leak in the injector but it's just dripping now. After losing 2 gallons of diesel in a pan, I found that the nut on the bottom had worked loose and it was losing diesel.

Thanks to everyone who responded and gave advise to work through this problem... This is my first major problem outside of the head gasket and ignition switch problems which the dealer fixed and they are common to these tractors.

 

[schmalts]

Lay off the ether, you are looking to blow the engine up.

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( My primer is froze up and won't pump. Has anyone had any experience with this problem and is there a way to free it up without taking the pump apart to do it? )</font>

They're cheap, and actually somewhat universal. Well, maybe not universal, but the same primer pump is used by a lot of engine manufacturers. Sorry that I can't give you a Jinma part number. I replaced the one on my Mercedes several years ago, and the one on the KAMA just recently, they're easily removed. If there's no Jinma parts source near you, maybe just remove it and take it to a vicinity diesel shop. Maybe they can match the threads.

And FWIW, I agree with the ether statment above. Don't get too reliant on starting fluid, it might cost you an engine some day.

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Lay off the ether, you are looking to blow the engine up. )</font>

Ether can be used safely on diesel engines. Key is being carefull, and attentive. Many large diesels in heavy equipment and large trucks have OEM built in replaceable ether canisters with pull cables that let metered amounts be introduced to the engine. That said.. I think I'd try something like propane, or wd-40 to start them. WD-40 used to have a flamable propellant.. but not I think it is cos.. however the oil seems to burn fine.

On many of the antique tractor boards I read.. we refer to ether as 'head bolt loosener', as most peopl euse it incorrectly.

Soundguy

 

[DwayneB]

Could you tell me what size line wrench to get for my Y485 and where I could pick one up? Napa perhaps?