Front wheels locked

[glmf]

as posted, it took me several try to get the oil level to be in the glass. I have found this to be true with the Hydro fluid as well, seems to help to pull the fill cap when checking the hydro fluid, and confirm the readings when using the tractor several times before relaxing. Hope this works out for the OP

 

[sodamo]

UPDATE

Didn't get to do much this week other than gazing forlornly at my baby parked next to the spoils pile and rereading this thread...

Wed I figured I'd give it a go. Still not sure what I did or how, but was able to "free" the 4wd lever. There was also a not very good sound of a metal clunck- like something binding up. However, the front seemed to free up, but I sure didn't feel good about driving it and shut it down.

Figured I'd do the 500 hr service and see what happened. Drained 4+ qts from the front axle. OK, a bit low, but definitely not dry. No metal bits or chunks came out with the oil, no burn odor. Had new filters on hand, but hadn't got new fluids yet, so a trip to town. Friday was rainy and I'm not eager to crawl around the wet ground so much since retiring from the army.

Today I attacked the service, refilled front axle, new coolant, engine oil and filter, grease... but reluctant to change out the hydraulics. At nearly $14/gallon, I was very hesitant, thinking, gee what if that gets dumped to fix what's wrong...

Anyway, after doing all except the hydro, asked the wife to come and listen as I gingerly inched it forward then back a few times. All seemed well, no noises, wheels worked. Figured I'd complete the service and drove down to a spot convenient for that.

Although I was about 12 hours shy of 500 hr service due, the hydro fluid looked pretty bad, almost milky looking compared to new. Of course this didn't show on the dip stick. Anyway, changed all the filters, some metal on the plug magnet, but not excessive. I felt with my finger inside but felt nothing.

So now I've worked about 1.5 hours brush hogging and no problems. Still a mystery what the problem was and if it has indeed gone away -- but my fingers are crossed.

Thanks for all the help.

David

 

[IXLR8]

Glad to hear you are moving again...
Sorry to say.. problems that 'fix' themselves make me nervous!
I wish you the best and may this issue never return.

 

[wallace]

Now this is one time that I am glad I was proved wrong.

 

[sodamo]

I'm with you , Jim. Makes me very nervous. One thing to breakdown 50 ft from the house, quite another at the other end of the property.

I hoped you were wrong too, Rick.

So, another 2+ hours on the meter today without incident. My brush hogging isn't for the faint of heart- all done in 4wd, low range. Multiple usage of the diff lock as the tractor migrates to 3 and sometimes just 2 wheels. Back to doing some bucket work this week. My fingers are crossed.

David

 

[Highbeam]

I've broken transmission gears in motorcycles and the missing tooth would make a tick every time it went around. These were spur gears and not R&P style gears. The tick was the subtle clue that I had broken a gear. The real unsubtle clue was when that chunk of broken gear would swim into the mesh and lock up the tranny resulting in a skid.

Bottom line: Hope that you don't have a chunk swimming around somewhere.

Oh and my HST fluid looked milky too. I think it is water from the condensation and our humid environments.

 

[sodamo]

"Oh and my HST fluid looked milky too. I think it is water from the condensation and our humid environments."

My thought as well. Sure looked bad though.

David

 

[intel]

I JB weld little magnets, The super magnets ( the strong ones), on the end of every drain plug. This may help
I get the magnets at ACE hardware, break the plastic off and use just a little JB weld probably would not even need the JB weld, but i use just to be sure.

 

[mrutkaus]

Whew, jb welding magnets has occurred to me but what if they come off and get in the gears?

Mike

 

[intel]

be sure and take a dremel motor tool and use a grinding stone to scratch the end of the drain plug and the one side of the magnet. This helps the JB weld to adhere better. plus you still have the magnetic properties holding to.
Or if possible sometimes Advanced auto parts have some drain plugs that are magnetized if will fit but be carfule they are not to long.

 

[sodamo]

So if perchance I do have a broken piece or two, think a good magnet might be enough to keep them out of harms way? Other than the drain plugs so dee if there is good location or two that might help?

David

 

[IXLR8]

Whew, jb welding magnets has occurred to me but what if they come off and get in the gears? Mike

Mike, JB them on the outside if the plug is steel. The magnetic force will be transfered to the inside... no need to put magnets inside and take that chance they will come off.

 

[IslandTractor]

If we are talking about the drain plugs for the front axle, I'd imagine that an external magnet, even if glued, would like be knocked off by brush. I know that the HST drain plug already has a built in magnet. Is that not the case for the transmission on gear versions too?

 

[mark.r]

Is gear oil the recommended lube? the manual says gear lube or hydraulic fluid.

This is a good point to stress as I believe Rick talked about it this past summer. Maybe Island or Joel or Rick himself will speak on it again but I believe although the manual recommends hydro fluild Rick specifically said to go with gear oil. Anyone recall this from the open house?

 

[Sandlot]

If we are talking about the drain plugs for the front axle, I'd imagine that an external magnet, even if glued, would like be knocked off by brush. I know that the HST drain plug already has a built in magnet. Is that not the case for the transmission on gear versions too?

Yep, big honkin magnet on the main tranny drain plug!

 

[IslandTractor]

This is a good point to stress as I believe Rick talked about it this past summer. Maybe Island or Joel or Rick himself will speak on it again but I believe although the manual recommends hydro fluild Rick specifically said to go with gear oil. Anyone recall this from the open house?

When I bought my DK from Rick I asked him to bring all the fluids I'd need for the 50hr service. He brought HST oil for the HST and 90w gear oil for the front axle.

That said, I suspect that unless you are running the tractor on a highway that almost any oil would be adequate so long as the level is OK.

 

[Gittyup]

Rick also advised me to use 90W. When new, he said they have hydraulic fluid in them for breakin that must be replaced with 90W at the 50 hour service.

 

[mark.r]

Rick also advised me to use 90W. When new, he said they have hydraulic fluid in them for breakin that must be replaced with 90W at the 50 hour service.

Thanks! That's what I was referring to in my previous post. Any one know how to tell the difference between the two? I though Rick said one smelled really bad?

 

[mab]

I believe Gear oil has an extreme pressure additive that wreaks and won't come out when spilled on things. It's a smell you don't forget! I think it also might be more viscous than hydraulic fluid (which has its own particular odor- not particularly offensive). I'm sticking with gear oil!

 

[mark.r]

I believe Gear oil has an extreme pressure additive that wreaks and won't come out when spilled on things. It's a smell you don't forget! I think it also might be more viscous than hydraulic fluid (which has its own particular odor- not particularly offensive). I'm sticking with gear oil!

I've got both in the garage so I'll compare. I was curious cause to be honest I didn't do my 50hr. so I don't really know what's in mine currently. It should be gear oil but I don't have or should say didn't have the most faith in my former dealership. I need to check after I determine which smells like what.