front tractor A frame 3720

[Chuck on lake]

I have a 3720 on order and will also purchase the 59 inch snowblower. I understand that the A frame lift attached to the tractor must be removed in order to use the FEL. I can't find anyplace that describes how that is done. I have limited use of one arm and sometimes find it difficult to get into "tight" spots to put in bolts etc. Can someone please describe what is involved in removing the tractor portion of the A frame lift? Thanks very much!

 

[CinderSchnauzer]

Not sure how many $$$$ you want to put into this project. JD appears to have a 64" FEL mounted SB. Major hitch is that a $6K Hydraulic pack is needed to run the thing, although it apparently can also be used for other things as well.

Have not seen one of these and the pics on the website are small, however, I suspect it might be relatively easy to install / remove.

Select a Model

 

[Chuck on lake]

I saw those also and priced them out when I was considering a tractor in the 4x20 series. If I remember correctly by the time you got the power pack, blower and necessary hardware the package was running about $11,000 and that was way over my budget. I plow a private road that is one mile long and use a blade most of the winter however as the winter goes on I am sometimes not able to move the snow back sufficiently and the road gets too narrow and then I use a blower. Last winter we didn't get much snow and I was able to use the blade all winter long. Maybe that will be the case in the future and I won't have to worry about putting the blower on!

 

[DrainPondDesign]

Chuck,

I have a 3320 with 59" blower so the setup will be the same as for a 3720.

The hydraulic cylinder with hoses and a sub frame stay attached to the tractor when the blower is off and the loader is on. This subframe reduces the ground clearance a little but this has not been a problem for my limited field use.

Forged (heavy) steel arms that extend beyond the front of the tractor attach to tabs on this subframe and are secured with spring ring pins.

The A-frame attaches to these arms with more pins and a top link like a small 3pt hitch.

My blower is stored on a wheeled dolly, raise the A-frame under the matching A-frame on the blower and secure with a king bolt and pins. Attach the hoses and you are ready to go.

It might be possible to do this with one arm but those forged arms are heavy. This opperation is not too complicated or hazardous so maybe anyone with your direction could help swap the loader and blower.

If you have a gravel drive you may need to lower the blower skid shoes until the ground freezes (2 bolts per shoe).

Keep spare shear bolts and spring ring pins.

It's snowing today, time to think about putting on the blower.

When the blower lift lever (loader control lever) is in the float postion the blower's weight is on the skid shoes which may follow ruts instead of going where you steer the tractor wheels. Just raise the blower to get it's weight on the wheels to regain steering control.

 

[Chuck on lake]

Thank you so very much for that wonderful explanation. I can picture just how it all goes together in my mind. It sounds like each arm, which will be pretty heavy, goes on the frame indpendently so that will help. Then the other end of each arm attaches to the base of the A frame which I am sure is pretty heavy. Then, if need be, I could place that on my floor jack and lift it to the correct height to accept the top arm. Thanks very, very, much. Your explanation if very helpful.

 

[Nuru]

Thank you so very much for that wonderful explanation. I can picture just how it all goes together in my mind. It sounds like each arm, which will be pretty heavy, goes on the frame indpendently so that will help. Then the other end of each arm attaches to the base of the A frame which I am sure is pretty heavy. Then, if need be, I could place that on my floor jack and lift it to the correct height to accept the top arm. Thanks very, very, much. Your explanation if very helpful.

Chuck, I am sure i put pics of the A-FRAME and my 366 blade somewhere on this site If you search, matter of fact, let me take a quick look. Ok, try these links:

this thread discusses a lot about the Front 3PT hitch assembly and removal, and I posted some good pics of the A-FRAME on the tractor and off.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-buying-pricing/118871-366-frame-mounted-blade.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...rating/158016-366-front-mount-blade-poly.html

 

[Rob-D]

Thank you so very much for that wonderful explanation. I can picture just how it all goes together in my mind. It sounds like each arm, which will be pretty heavy, goes on the frame indpendently so that will help. Then the other end of each arm attaches to the base of the A frame which I am sure is pretty heavy. Then, if need be, I could place that on my floor jack and lift it to the correct height to accept the top arm. Thanks very, very, much. Your explanation if very helpful.

Chuck, check my photos (post 16) that I just posted when I installed mine:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...186668-59-blower-3x20-series.html#post2128408

Cinder, You can't get a 64" front blower for the 3x20 series.

Rob

 

[CinderSchnauzer]

Cinder, You can't get a 64" front blower for the 3x20 series.

Rob

Well sure Rob, I know "I" can't get one because $11K - $13K is too rich for me, but JD has a 64" SB that "you" could buy for your FEL - on the front unless I'm misreading the following:

http://configurator.deere.com/servlet/com.deere.u90947.eproducts.view.servlets.ProductSelectionServlet?userAction=configureProduct&lang=en&country=US&sbu=FE&category=Snow%20Products&model=SB2164%20-%2064%20In%20Hydraulic%2C%20300%20Series%20Carrier%20Loader%20Mount%20Snowblower&modelID=Model_US596&baseCode=&futureProduct=false

 

[Rob-D]

Well sure Rob, I know "I" can't get one because $11K - $13K is too rich for me, but JD has a 64" SB that "you" could buy for your FEL - on the front unless I'm misreading the following:

http://configurator.deere.com/servlet/com.deere.u90947.eproducts.view.servlets.ProductSelectionServlet?userAction=configureProduct&lang=en&country=US&sbu=FE&category=Snow%20Products&model=SB2164%20-%2064%20In%20Hydraulic%2C%20300%20Series%20Carrier%20Loader%20Mount%20Snowblower&modelID=Model_US596&baseCode=&futureProduct=false

Here's the link to JD attachments, check pages 18,19:

Implements & Accessories - Product Catalog

Your link didn't come up.

Rob

 

[arrabil]

Cinder, you got it. I was looking at those yesterday. There is even a 76" model if you have the PTO HP for the pump.

I could blow snow off the roof of the garage with a loader mount blower.

 

[Rob-D]

Well sure Rob, I know "I" can't get one because $11K - $13K is too rich for me, but JD has a 64" SB that "you" could buy for your FEL - on the front unless I'm misreading the following:

http://configurator.deere.com/servlet/com.deere.u90947.eproducts.view.servlets.ProductSelectionServlet?userAction=configureProduct&lang=en&country=US&sbu=FE&category=Snow%20Products&model=SB2164%20-%2064%20In%20Hydraulic%2C%20300%20Series%20Carrier%20Loader%20Mount%20Snowblower&modelID=Model_US596&baseCode=&futureProduct=false

Right, I just saw it but, like you said, big bucks!! I'll stick with the 59" blower.

Rob

 

[Chuck on lake]

Thank you all for the many replies. I don't think i will have any problem with attaching the blower if I just take my time. I hope everything arrives before I really need the snowblower this spring when the road gets narrow. Meanwhile my JD 4400 will do just fine on keeping it opened up and passable. As everyone knows, it is just so darn hard to have finally pulled the trigger and then wait for the new team to arrive! Thanks again everyone.

 

[CinderSchnauzer]

Here's the link to JD attachments, check pages 18,19:

Implements & Accessories - Product Catalog

Your link didn't come up.

Rob

Apparently that one "times out" I did work right after it was posted but not now. Try the link I provided in Post #2 and drill down from there to the product with pricing for US or CAN.

 

[Rob-D]

Thank you all for the many replies. I don't think i will have any problem with attaching the blower if I just take my time. I hope everything arrives before I really need the snowblower this spring when the road gets narrow. Meanwhile my JD 4400 will do just fine on keeping it opened up and passable. As everyone knows, it is just so darn hard to have finally pulled the trigger and then wait for the new team to arrive! Thanks again everyone.

Chuck,
Good luck. One more thing, if you're putting on the front 'A'frame yourself it takes a few hours to get it on and to do it right you'll need regular Loctite (242) and a torque wrench. A 3/4" socket set makes the job a lot easier too.

Cinder, Yes, I did do a 'build your own' on the blower and saw where it can be set up for the 3x20 series.

Rob

 

[Chuck on lake]

Chuck,
Good luck. One more thing, if you're putting on the front 'A'frame yourself it takes a few hours to get it on and to do it right you'll need regular Loctite (242) and a torque wrench. A 3/4" socket set makes the job a lot easier too.

Cinder, Yes, I did do a 'build your own' on the blower and saw where it can be set up for the 3x20 series.

Rob

Thanks for the tip. The A-Frame stationary frame will be installed by the dealer so I won't have to worry about that. I sure wish there was a simple way to remove the drive shaft. If it is anything like my 4400 and it looks the same, it was not so hard to remove but to put it back on was really tricky, at least for me! Thanks again everyone.

 

[DrainPondDesign]

Hi Chuck,

Some additional info.

The drive shaft stays attached to the blower unit, mine has univerals and the local JD tech says that the newer shafts now have flex joints but it should attach the same way by slipping over the front PTO spline and securing with a spring loaded collar.

There is a bearing mounted under the front of the tractor that supports the front of the PTO shaft and extends forward as a spline that the blower shaft slips over and clicks onto.

Some owners that use their tractor over rough terrain remove this front PTO bearning & shaft but I leave mine on & have not had a problem.

To make hooking it up easier keep the front spline greased and I keep a plastic cover (condom?) from a roof snow rake handle over it to keep it clean during the summer.

It will help if you can attach & remove the blower/loader on a cement floor, you may be able to cut wood blocks to support those attachment arms as you pin them to the sub frame.

When removing the loader for the winter try to get the bucket and parking stand so that the hydraulic cylinders are not supporting the weight of the unit. This will reduce pressure inside the loader hydraulics and make connecting the hose couplings easier in spring.

Our JD dealer offers on site service including attaching and removing loaders and blowers, yours may too if needed.

One last thing, the JD advertisement DVDs show a pretty blond lady effortlessly removing and attaching impliments, I am neither blond, good looking nor female which may explain why I need a big rubber mallet and a few cuss words to accomoplish the same work.

We all can use a little help sometimes.

Bill

 

[Chuck on lake]

I, too, got a chuckle out of the posts. Those advertising types can sure make it look like child's play. Yuup, here in northern Minnesota most of use have a tool section for our "persuaders" which are an assortment of pry bars, mallets, and other such devices. Thanks for the suggestions on the FEL. When the snow banks require that I use the blower rather than the blade I kick my pickup out of the building and use that stall for removing the FEL. That way I have a nice level surface to place it on and makes installing it much easier. I hold off using the blower as long as I can because clearing my one mile road is much faster with the blade. Thanks again everyone. I am like a kid at Christmas waiting for the 3720 to arrive. Must be patient!