Front tire removal questions

[Andrew2019]

Hi guys,

I have a slow leak in my front left tire (Kubota BX2380) and I'm going to get a tube put in.

I have two questions.

The torque on the bolts seems to be 110 lbf-ft to 132 lbf-ft
I'm assuming that's foot lbs? I've never seen it written that way so I thought Id ask to make sure. I have a good torque wrench
and I don't want to over tighten the bolts.

Secondly, I can use the bucket to pick it up initially but where can I put the jack stand safely in the front?

The manual doesn't say where the right spot is.

Andrew

 

[CobyRupert]

Yes, 110 lbf-ft torque is the same as 110 ft-lbf (or 110 footpounds).
The torque is the feet x pounds (ft-lbf) which is the same as the pounds x feet (lbf-ft).

110 foot pounds: Imagine the torque (at the socket) a 1 foot long breaker bar has with 110 pound weight hanging from the end of the handle. Same torque as a 110 foot breaker bar has with 1 pound hanging at the end of it (but not counting the weight of the 110' breaker bar!!). Also 55 lbs x 2ft (55lb at 2 ft) is same torque as 2 lbs x 55ft (2 lbs at 55'), etc...

....but it would sound funny if my electric bill charged me for hours-kilowatts instead of kilowatt-hours..

If you're changing one tire, why not jack under the front axle? If both tires, why not under where front axle pivots...assuming it won't fall off jack.

 

[Andrew2019]

If you're changing one tire, why not jack under the front axle? If both tires, why not under where front axle pivots...assuming it won't fall off jack.

Thanks for the fast reply. The manual says to 'fix the front axle to keep it from pivoting"

They don't mention how to do this so I figured I'd just lift with the bucket as opposed to screwing it up and having it land on me.

AS far as the torque, they give me a range. Is it just that? Or should I aim for 110 ft-lbf?

Andrew

 

[Roadworthy]

When given a torque range I generally calculate the middle number and tighten to that. As far as the pivot, if it's not secure one wheel can move up while the other goes down. I generally just block both sides so neither wheel can come back down until I want it to. That allows me to remove either or even both wheels.

 

[LouNY]

There should be enough open space on the axle side that you are working on for a jack stand.
Alternatively throw a tree cutting wedge (plastic) or a wooden wedge into the opposite side.

 

[Fallon]

My solution to the hacking issue with a recent flat... front axle flopped around a bit when both tires were on, but not badly.

You can guesstimate the torque reasonably well as mentioned previously. 1' ratchet or breaker bar & apply the rated number of lbs on it. I weigh 210lbs so putting around half my weight on a breaker bar would get things about right. An appropriately sized tween or teen would be about right. Just apply the force smoothly & don't bounce as that will dramatically increase torque applied.

That being said a good torque wrench is worth it. I just roughly put the lug nuts on after the issue below. Got me through the job close enough, then used the torque wrench back at the barn. I was actually pretty close.

 

[fried1765]

Yes, 110 lbf-ft torque is the same as 110 ft-lbf (or 110 footpounds).
The torque is the feet x pounds (ft-lbf) which is the same as the pounds x feet (lbf-ft).

110 foot pounds: Imagine the torque (at the socket) a 1 foot long breaker bar has with 110 pound weight hanging from the end of the handle. Same torque as a 110 foot breaker bar has with 1 pound hanging at the end of it (but not counting the weight of the 110' breaker bar!!). Also 55 lbs x 2ft (55lb at 2 ft) is same torque as 2 lbs x 55ft (2 lbs at 55'), etc...

....but it would sound funny if my electric bill charged me for hours-kilowatts instead of kilowatt-hours..

If you're changing one tire, why not jack under the front axle? If both tires, why not under where front axle pivots...assuming it won't fall off jack.

Why not just use the loader to lift the entire front end?
Takes mere seconds!
Then....be sure to use jack stands, or wood blocks.

 

[oosik]

I do exactly as fried1765 said. Lift with the loader - lower back down to a jack stand on each side of the front axle.

 

[ovrszd]

Or let the hub down onto a block of wood. Definitely use the FEL.

 

[diesel85]

Use the FEL to pick it up, then slide wood or stands under.

NEVER EVER rely on a FEL to hold up a machine. Let alone a floor jack.

I've seen far too many accidents where people rely on hydraulics and they fail, people get crushed, loose arms/legs, etc.

With that being said, never leave a FEL lifted unattended or work under a lifted loader. I see this at some dealers, which I'm surprised they would even take the liability.

 

[Andrew2019]

That was my plan. I have some ironwood planks that'll do the trick well.

 

[4570Man]

Removing a tire and crawling under something aren’t even close to the same. You’re probably endangering yourself more to place the jack stand vs just pulling off the tire. I’d lift up the tractor with the loader and pull the lug nuts with my battery impact and then put a 6x6 under it and let it back down. I’ve done exactly that a few times. I’ve removed rear tires by lifting it with a backhoe stabilizer too. Now anything I’m crawling under gets proper support. Either wood blocks or beefy jack stands. I won’t use dinky jack stands or the drive on ramps.

 

[Smokeydog]

Tube to fix a car tire yes, tractor no. I have fixed and preventive a lot of slow leaks in equipment tires with slime leak sealant from tractor supply. $20/gallon. Hay rakes, bailer, trailers, manure spreader, hand carts, atvs and tractors. For the newest two tractor loader front tires used bulletproof sealant from Gemplers. No need to remove wheels to install. Do use loader to take the weight off the tires while installing the sealant. Gallon jugs have their own pump. Cheaper than tubes, better protection, less down time and still can plug a tubeless tire if needed. Nothing kills a day worse than having to fix or replace a tire.

 

[dj1701]

T for tight always worked for me, however I understand why the manufactures but the info into the service manual. LOL:laughing:

 

[fried1765]

Removing a tire and crawling under something aren’t even close to the same. You’re probably endangering yourself more to place the jack stand vs just pulling off the tire. I’d lift up the tractor with the loader and pull the lug nuts with my battery impact and then put a 6x6 under it and let it back down. I’ve done exactly that a few times. I’ve removed rear tires by lifting it with a backhoe stabilizer too. Now anything I’m crawling under gets proper support. Either wood blocks or beefy jack stands. I won’t use dinky jack stands or the drive on ramps.

^^^^what he said!

 

[check]

I had constant slow leaks on my front tires. Kubota apparently updated the tires/rims, so I bought a new set. No problems since then.

 

[PILOON]

We talk of torque wrenches, and I have about 3 and all calibrated as well.
Whenever I carefully torque to specs, Heads, rims etc) I always seem to get that feeling that I just stripped the threads.
Consequently I now simply leave them in my tool box.

 

[fried1765]

We talk of torque wrenches, and I have about 3 and all calibrated as well.
Whenever I carefully torque to specs, Heads, rims etc) I always seem to get that feeling that I just stripped the threads.
Consequently I now simply leave them in my tool box.

I have two nice torque wrenches.
Unless the torque is something critical (like an engine head) I use the that's enough method also.

 

[PILOON]

In aviation much had to be torqued to specs.
Like slip clutches on autopilot servos, shucks every nut had a torque spec of some sort.
Also all torque tools needed an annual re certification with correction charts, costly!

I recall being chastened because my master compass was not calibrated,*
I replied that a magnet will always point north and no, I did not cut out 10 deg from the compass rose.

*annual certification included 'swinging' the compass and calibrating corrections on all cardinal points.
(A procedure that I suspect was frequently faked.)
Since we did many new avionic installations 'swinging' was an important aspect of the job.

 

[repete]

Removing a tire and crawling under something aren’t even close to the same. You’re probably endangering yourself more to place the jack stand vs just pulling off the tire. I’d lift up the tractor with the loader and pull the lug nuts with my battery impact and then put a 6x6 under it and let it back down. I’ve done exactly that a few times. I’ve removed rear tires by lifting it with a backhoe stabilizer too. Now anything I’m crawling under gets proper support. Either wood blocks or beefy jack stands. I won’t use dinky jack stands or the drive on ramps.

Absolutely. I have had wheel issues in the field and lowered the bucket to the ground, lifted the front end with the loader and backed up to the barn using left and right brake. Changed many a flat tire this way.

Everything you do has an inherent degree of danger to it. Just think about what you are doing with the thought of what can go wrong with this plan. Jack stands in gravel or dirt, nope, 6x6's.