Front lights for BX2200

Anonymous Poster · Mar 26, 2003

As I'm sure you all know, the headlights on the BX are useless with a fel. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif I'm not sure what they were thinking when they designed the headlights on this tractor /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif but I saw an opportunity to address the problem and I must say it works excellent.

The Curtis cab made this real easy since it has holes already drilled for mounting top lights but I didn't want to pay their prices so I went to good ole Walmart and for $20 I got a set of rectangular driving lights (55 watt halogen). The lights mounted perfectly through the pre-drilled holes and tucked underneath the lip of the cab top so they are not exposed to tree branches etc. The lights aimed perfectly at about 25' in front of the tractor and you can't even tell the factory headlights are on with the top lights going. The only time the bucket blocks these lights at all is when it's way up and you usually won't be moving much when that is the case. Here's a picture of it all light up.

Anonymous Poster · Mar 26, 2003

And here's a picture of what you can see from inside the cab with the lights on.

I'll post more pictures of the set up including some close-ups tomorrow when it's light out again.

PhilNH5 · Mar 27, 2003

Bob,
Nice job! How did you tie into the BX's power. I searched this site and keep hearing about a connector under the seat. I don't have that but I did find a set of quick-connects right before each tailight.

Thanks,
Phil

Bird · Mar 27, 2003

( connector under the seat. I don't have that )

Phil, maybe your tractor doesn't have one under the seat, but at first, I didn't see one under the seat on my B2710 either. I found that they had taped it to another wire and in wrapping the tape around the wires they had completely covered the connector so it wasn't visible. When I found two wires coming together into the tape and only one going out of that tape to the rear of the tractor, I removed the tape, found the connector and used it.

Anonymous Poster · Mar 27, 2003

( Bob,
Nice job! How did you tie into the BX's power. I searched this site and keep hearing about a connector under the seat.
)

The Curtis cab has a heater and a wiper so to install that they drill a small hole in the side of the dashboard for wiring. I ran my lighting wires through that hole and anchored the ground under a bolt on the frame. The lights came with a 15 amp in-line fuse so I just went straight to the hot side of the battery. The illuminated rocker swith that came with the kit really won't mount anywhere so I have a pull switch temporarily connected until I can get what I want for a switch. I will then drill a hole in the dash beside the ignition and permanently mount the switch. There are a couple of spots in the dash in that area that look like they were meant for supplimental swithing. I'll post a few more pics later this evening.

And next, it's on to rear lighting! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif The wife just laughs at me, she thinks I'm nuts! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Charliebrn · Mar 27, 2003

Bob, one question: Did you upgrade the alternator at some point, or are you still using the dynamo that comes standard? I've been wanting to add more lights (I added 2 55watt halogens already, and I posted that project some time ago), but I'm afraid the dynamo won't handle any more. I priced out the alternator upgrade and they wanted quite a bit more than $200!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Anonymous Poster · Mar 27, 2003

( Bob, one question: Did you upgrade the alternator at some point, or are you still using the dynamo that comes standard? )

No, I'm using the standard power plant. I figure I'll use these lights instead of the factory headlights, since they're pretty useless anyways. This shouldn't necessitate more current capability.

Anonymous Poster · Mar 28, 2003

I thought the same way about the factory lights and added one in this manner.

Anonymous Poster · Mar 28, 2003

( I thought the same way about the factory lights and added one in this manner. )

That's a pretty fair alternative for someone who doesn't have a cab.

Here's a close up of my cab mounted lights.

Anonymous Poster · Mar 28, 2003

And closer...

Anonymous Poster · Mar 28, 2003

And one more showing the pull switch installation.

Anonymous Poster · Mar 29, 2003

Having this light down low enables me to see not only in front of the bucket with it raised more than 6 inches, but also right behind the bucket if I am using to scoop and I can see if I get too deep and getting into the turf. For power I just piggy backed off of the input side of the switch for the front lights. Then cut a hole next to the switch for the turn signals and placed a rocker switch there.

chrisjbell · Mar 29, 2003

I figure I'll use these lights instead of the factory headlights, since they're pretty useless anyways. This shouldn't necessitate more current capability.


You can probably get away with using your 55 watt lights instead of the "stock" lights, but the ones that come with the tractor don't pull 55 watts (I think they pull 28 each).

At 55 watts you're pulling nearly 10 amps and if you run off the regular light's fuse you're pushing it, because that fuse is also running the rear "running" lights and the flashers. If you're connected straight to the battery you're probably OK, but bear in mind that the total load the electrical system can handle is 30 amps, handled by a slow blow fuse at the dynamo (at least on the B7300 and I'll bet you have the same dynamo). If you add another set of 55 watt lights you're pulling nearly 20 amps in lights alone. Might be OK. Worst that'll happen is you blow the main fuse, I guess /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

BTW, your accessory lighting wire should be Red and Lavender if it is the same as my tractor and is fused for 15 amps. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Anonymous Poster · Mar 30, 2003

(
For power I just piggy backed off of the input side of the switch for the front lights. Then cut a hole next to the switch for the turn signals and placed a rocker switch there. )

Looks great! I was too chicken to cut into the dash like that so I settled for the pull switch. I was also considering hooking my new lights up through the existing headlight switch but was concered about overdrawing the circuit. Don't want to void my warrantee, you know! /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

Anonymous Poster · Mar 30, 2003

( You can probably get away with using your 55 watt lights instead of the "stock" lights, but the ones that come with the tractor don't pull 55 watts (I think they pull 28 each). )

Good point! I had not thought to check to see what the stock lights were rated at.

( If you're connected straight to the battery you're probably OK, but bear in mind that the total load the electrical system can handle is 30 amps, handled by a slow blow fuse at the dynamo (at least on the B7300 and I'll bet you have the same dynamo). )

Thanks for the info on the electrical system. I love Kubota tractors but their manuals... not so much. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif I suspect you are correct in assuming that both tractors use the same stock dynamo. I did connect straight to the battery with a 15 amp fuse in the circuit so I should be okay there. I'll check the slow blow fuse on the alternator and get a spare, though!

( If you add another set of 55 watt lights you're pulling nearly 20 amps in lights alone. )

For rear lights I was only going to go with one on a seperate switch. I only need it to monitor the back blade while removing snow and I'll only run one set of auxillary lights at a time.

chrisjbell · Apr 1, 2003

I love Kubota tractors but their manuals... not so much. 

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

So true. I would suggest picking up the WORKSHOP MANUAL - TRACTOR (I just love the title /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif). It has some interesting language, but is a great reference for working on the thing. Much more info than the owner's manual and not too expensive (although much more than it should be - it is a loose leaf manual and you have to provide your own binder).

Anonymous Poster · Apr 1, 2003

( So true. I would suggest picking up the WORKSHOP MANUAL - TRACTOR (I just love the title /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif). It has some )

I'm headed back to the dealer for more implements on Friday and was planning to ask about this. Sounds like a "must have" to me!

chrisjbell · Apr 2, 2003

Yeah, I try to get the factory shop manual for all my vehicles. There's always a lot in there that isn't in the owner's manual and often not in third party shop manuals.

I think I paid around $20 for it. Dealer had to order it.