Framing nail gun questions

[Budweiser John]

Yes, if you are only interested in price, by all means use nails. In fact, if you want cheap, hand nail.

Yes,
As a bonus, installing screws is far safer.

They are worth the cost to me.[/QUOTE
I certinally agree. The evolution from slotted to Phillips to square drive and on to star (forex) heads makes them a no brainier.

B. John

 

[searcyfarms]

yea next thing you know they will be putting on 55 squares of asphalt shingles on my roof with a screw gun - NOT!!!

I cant imaging using screws to put an entire house together that would be ridiculous - for a small project yes but an entire house NO, maybe a mini house ;-)

 

[downsizingnow48]

I have a Hitachi framing nailer which is easy to use and reliable, but those nails are not being given away either. I am using it right now for framing and sheathing the new generator shed. But, for a lot of things these days I also use screws instead. The high quality square drive and torx drive screws now available are amazing, such a change from even a few years ago. For a recent deck I got 3 1/2" square drive stainless steel screws in 1000 screw buckets from McFeeleys, that was about $200 a bucket. The only Phillips drive screws I have are real drywall screws, 1 5/8", for drywall. For all other uses the square drive and torx drive screws, as well as the heavy duty Spax and GRK type screws, are the way to go in many applications where used to be a nail was your only choice. For finish work I use Senco nailers and staplers, but even there you can get trim head #6 screws that out perform nails for some purposes.

 

[Redlands Okie]

When framing a house screws will NOT pass inspection in central Oklahoma. Due to shear and bending issues I assume. A buddy of mine learned that the hard way a while back. Had to lay all the walls down and nail them. Since the inspector was in a mood over having to deal with such things the walls were not allowed to be stood back up until they were inspected top and bottom plates. Then they were allowed to be stood up and fastened and call for the normal inspection.

 

[ray66v]

There are screws that meet the requirements for fasteners under the IRC and IBC building codes.

Strong-Drive(R) SDWS FRAMING Screw | Simpson Strong-Tie

They also don't generally list a fastener requirement for interior non-load bearing walls.

Again, I use screws on smaller projects. You can go pretty fast when you get a rhythm going. But, not as fast as a nailer, of course. If it was a whole house, it's more important to get dried in, so a nailer is going to be a better choice.

 

[RPW]

Although HF has changed brands and no longer carries the 28 deg nails they are available online or at HD and Lowe's.

 

[Barnbuilder]

I do wish I could find 3.5 ring shank hot dipped galvanized nails for it.[/QUOTE]

I use Maze Nails. Go online but order by phone due to shipping. CT4491 I think is part #. Largest you will find.

 

[caver]

Old Thread.....Old Thread

I need round head collated 21* framing nails. My Milwaukee gun can handle up to 3.5" long and .148 diameter. The stores always carry 3" or 3.25" and usually .131 dia. No building codes where I am building in the near future. This is for framing. I found a place online that has 3.5" .148 but out of stock. For those that build in area with codes is the .131 ok? My kit company just said 3.5."

 

[scootr]

Sorry I missed this Screw v Nail debate. That inspector must have been already mad at somebody to pull that stunt. I'm a retired carpenter and commercial superintendent. I would have gotten shear & pull load specs on those screws and made the case that the inspectors job is public safety not personal preferences. What a dick.

 

[EddieWalker]

No help on the nails, but I'm curious what the reason for 3 1/2 inch nails is? Do you need to use them for the entire kit? or just in certain areas? I have a box of 3 1/2 inch galvanized nails that I use for sill pressure treated sill plates and framing studs that I hammer in one at a time.