Framing a house: 2X4 vs 2X6

[Chain Bender]

Hope to start sawing logs in the next week or two for lumber to frame my son's new house. I know most houses are framed with finished 2X4's, but I believe that is because of the cost of 2X6's. I've got plenty of clear pine to cut all the 2X6's I would need. I live in NW FL and the winters are mild and the summers really hot for 2 months. Would there be any real "thermo" advantage to using 2X6's? I know structurally it would be stronger than 2X4 outside walls.

Anyone here ever frame a house with rough cut 2X6's?

tks in advance,
Chain Bender

 

[wedge40]

Hope to start sawing logs in the next week or two for lumber to frame my son's new house. I know most houses are framed with finished 2X4's, but I believe that is because of the cost of 2X6's. I've got plenty of clear pine to cut all the 2X6's I would need. I live in NW FL and the winters are mild and the summers really hot for 2 months. Would there be any real "thermo" advantage to using 2X6's? I know structurally it would be stronger than 2X6 outside walls.

Anyone here ever frame a house with rough cut 2X6's?

tks in advance,
Chain Bender

I believe in some nothern states it is now required to frame with 2x6.

Wedge

 

[Eyecatcher]

Obviously, 2x6 construction will give you much more space for increased insulation installation. I don't think that's your problem. I framed a workshop in DeLand Fl with rought cut pine 2x4 that I stacked, dried and had pressure treated. When the inspector came for framing inspection, he said "no heat
I see". I asked him what he was talking about, and he showed me in the Florida Bldg Code, that unless framing lumber has a kiln dried stamp on it, you cannot heat the structure. Says the heat brings the bugs out of the lumber. I argued that it had been pressure treated, didn't cut any ice, had to agree that there would be no heat. Had to wait a couple of months after final to install the heat and air, so be careful.

 

[Chain Bender]

Boy don't I hope that has changed. Wouldn't matter if it was a 2X4 or a 2X12 if that's the case. Not sure where the nearest kiln is around here. But I will be tryng to find out in just a few minutes.

Tks for tks heads up. This certainly changes the price of a new house!

C. Bender

 

[Alan L.]

Two things to worry about (1) The lumber is properly dried, otherwise it will warp and twist and really mess up the house, and (2) that the lumber dimensions are standard 1.5" x "5.5", otherwise this could make the construction project more difficult. Otherwise 2 x 6 is good for strength and because you can put more insulation in there.

 

[andyt11]

it's code up here since the 80s I think. 2x6's on outside walls.

Its nice actually, lots more insulation and stiffer. If you have the means do the 2x6's - but make sure hey are 5.5 otherwise it will become a pain when you start with door frames and so on.

sounds like the biggest thing will be the kiln drying problem though.

 

[Artisan]

Your plumber will thank you.

 

[dschuffert]

I built a new house almost two years ago (December 2010). I used 2X6's for the outside walls instead of the 2X4's originally called for in the blueprint. According to my architect this gave me some structural advantages on the spans along with it met the requirements for my insulation requirements (1.5 inches of foam and then the remaining in wet cellulose). The insulation characteristics worked out well the last two winters (2010 and 2011) with the Geothermal unit, which is completely dependent on the homes insulation, kept the house very warm for no more than $50 per month in electricity to simply run the fan and heat-pump.

 

[Iowachild]

When I built my 24' X 36' seasonal home, I went with 2x4's as it is heated with wood, unheated when no one is there, and framed with 2x6's would have cost me 20 sq. ft. of floor space. Just my :2cents:

 

[thatguy]

Here in VA with our milder winters our builder didnt think we would see that much of a savings, BUT I wish we would have used the 2x6 for at least the outside walls..

I like 'dschuffert' idea of the 2x6 with some foam insulation.. I wish we had also done some foam insulation


Brian

 

[lockhaven]

2X6 has many advantages, in the future the worry about nailing a wire or pipe is less, as long as you do not go overboard with the nail size. the extra insulation will make the cost easy to justify with the current cost of heating. little things like the extra deep window sills not much but nice. i built my house 30 years ago and used 2X6 and have never second guessed that decision.

 

[Gator6x4]

When young during the summer I helped a carpenter in construction. Strong back, good knees and a weak mind was about all the requirements. A lot of air dried sized lumber was used then in framing and also on interior walls. The lumber was milled, stacked and let dry for a year or more before being used. One of my jobs was sorting 2x4's and 2x6, etc to insure all items used at a particular location, ie; wall were the same width and thickness. Since you advised you were going to saw the lumber I hope your mill is in good condition to insure consistent width and thickness or you have some means of sizing the lumber prior to use. It is hard to find a commerical/business/individual anymore that will plane and size air dried lumber.

I cannot speak to the requirement that klin dried lumber be used in constrution in Florida were heat will be used. I can speak about twisted, bowed lumber when used in home construction when green or with a high (mc) moisture content. That was another of my jobs use a straight edge to locate then remove all bowed, wrapped and twisted framing prior to the interior walls being installed. Something about wavy walls in a house that upsets people. I don't think you will have a problem keeping things straight and plumb if you remember you are using true dimensioned lumber instead of reduced and do your layout, 16-or-24 inch center accordingly.

So if you have the time to let the lumber air dry for at least a year before starting construction and then let the house stand for 60-90 or more days after getting it under roof and dried in before covering the walls so you can remove wrapped, twisted and bowed studs I would say you will have a very strong house. Be sure and not forget the hurricane and tornado straps.

 

[magicheater]

2x6 is ultimately better on the outside walls, for thermal and sound insulation as well as additional weight displacement for the roof structure. Insulation is valuable for both heating and cooling as some tend to forget. Windows and doors may cost more because of the additional width in the jamb. I would tend to use "sawn" lumber in areas where standard components are not affected, i.e. roof sheeting. Trim is a good thing to have sawn if you have some nice hardwoods from your property, kiln dried and planed to your specs. You can have your lumber sawn to the nominal thickness but you will not have the consistency of planed lumber which is critical to all finishing aspects of your home, windows, doors, drywall, etc. As Artisan said your plumber will love you for 2x6 framing and I would encourage this in all walls containing plumbing. Good luck with your project!

 

[Chain Bender]

Obviously, 2x6 construction will give you much more space for increased insulation installation. I don't think that's your problem. I framed a workshop in DeLand Fl with rought cut pine 2x4 that I stacked, dried and had pressure treated. When the inspector came for framing inspection, he said "no heat
I see". I asked him what he was talking about, and he showed me in the Florida Bldg Code, that unless framing lumber has a kiln dried stamp on it, you cannot heat the structure. Says the heat brings the bugs out of the lumber. I argued that it had been pressure treated, didn't cut any ice, had to agree that there would be no heat. Had to wait a couple of months after final to install the heat and air, so be careful.

I've done some searching and can't find the requirement for kiln dried wood. Do you have any idea where to start looking again.

thanks to anyone who might have a suggestion.

C. Bender

 

[vtsnowedin]

I built my house twenty five years ago with rough sawed unplanned lumber. I would not do that again. I used 2x6 in the walls as is standard here and as others have stated 2x6 even in Florida helps on cooling as well as heat. If you saw your own, saw and plane them to standard dimensions so your doors , windows and other fittings Fit[/B] without modification.

 

[ENG18LT]

Check with your permit office about rough cut. It is in the IBC, but the code enforcement has final say.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I wouldn't fight the permit gods either. Code is in your interest especially if you ever need to sell it. In Florida I would be concerned with humidity, termites and hurricanes. What are your plans to deal with those realities?

 

[Mike476]

I used kiln dried lumber when I built my house 12 years ago, still ended up knocking out interior studs (drywallers will backcut warped studs if you don't) after 3-4 weeks of being roof tight, I started using the expression "pond dried" lumber. Kiln dried lumber stored outside doesn't magically repel moisture.

As far as the insects are concerned, I have built my 20x30 woodworking shop and have enough sawn lumber milled to build my next project, I let it air dry once milled for at least a year, stacked properly I lose very little to warpage and have never had a pine beetle or carpenter ant problem.

 

[MotorSeven]

If it were mine, I'd opt for 2x6 walls. More insulation means slower heat/cold transfer....it will stay warm or cold longer. If there are porches think about insulating them as it makes a huge difference on the temp of the main structure.

Kiln drying only kills live bugs or eggs. If you have either, once the wood is no longer living they leave, or hatch out and leave. It will not prevent carpenter ants, carpenter bees or termites, etc. As pointed out, the wood should be pretty dry or it will shrink after it's up. Depending on the species of wood it will shrink a little(cedar) or a lot(Southern Yellow Pine). Even if air dried, it will always shrink further..but not too bad.

 

[LD1]

I would just go with store-bought 2x6's. Mainly for reasons others mentioned.

But I have to ask why you are even considering sawing your own?? What are you really saving in the grand scheme of things??? Around here, 2x4x8's are typically $2 and 2x6x8's are $3. So if you buy 1000 of them, thats only 3 grand. Thats pocket change when you figure the total cost of everything. Not to mention that sawing you own isnt exactally free either. There are costs associated with that as well. AND, 1000 boards is ALOT. on 16" spacing, that is enough to do over 1300 lineal feet of wall. How may studs did you figure you would need??