Please forgive me if this post is disjointed. The GD website logged me out while I was typing it, THEN it erased it when I resubmitted it a second time because it is apparently heavily into LSD and fantasized I had a link somewhere, so I have entered it 3 times (so far) and probably lost something in translation.
My backhoe wont start. It is a 20+ yo 5l Iveco Diesel engine with "power-shuttle" (I think thats what they call it) 4-speed clutchless manual with torque converter.
It has electronic F/N/R (no mechanical connections) lever on the column. Lots of hours, but surprisingly few leaks.
Ive had it 3-4 years and it always ran beautifully til this "happened". It lives outside in OH, I don't own a building it would fit in. I think some wires got mouse-chewed someplace during a long idle period (6 mos) last year while my mom was in the hospital and my after work time was spent taking care of her or her house. The backhoe has always had mice, they love the thing. If I needed to build a mouse house for some reason (like those cat tower things) I would shape it like a backhoe. I cover all the openings (this HAS gotten the squirrels out!), but obviously nothing will keep them out of the chassis where all the wires are unless I tether several cats to the thing fulltime, or park in a big vat of acid. But anyway, on to the situation.
The battery is new(ish). The main disconnect is connected.* The fuses are all good, except for the 1 that runs the (nonexistent) radio is blown, guessing the wires dangling loose said hello to each other (long before I got it; the fuse had electrical tape on it which I assume was a reminder that it was blown). Also the main 80A fusible link on the firewall is missing altogether and has been bypassed (before I got it; I will replace once I get this problem solved).
The starter will not engage when key is turned. The electrical accessories seem to all work (lights, wipers, fan). The oil pressure light is on (until it is started) and the glow plug light works as expected (not on until key turned 1 more notch). The gas gauge seems to have stopped working, not sure if there is a relation.
When this problem FIRST happened, the temp gauge was all the way redlined (in February, while 25F ambient ). I suspected there might be a "safety feature" that wouldnt let it start while overheating. I cleaned out a bunch of mouse debris around the thermostat area and the gauge went back to normal (ie all the way cold). But still wouldnt start.
I confirm the gear lever is in neutral. I fondle the "disengage" buttons on the gear stick and bucket control lever to make sure they arent stuck.
If I jumper the fuel value and manually trigger the starter, it starts and runs sweetly as ever (and this is the smoothest diesel I have ever operated).
Once I get it the engine running, all the hydraulics work. The oil pressure light goes out.
BUT, if I try to put it in gear, nothing happens, neither F nor R. I proofed the F/N/R switch with a meter and it is sending correct signals. With the ignition on and the engine not running, I can hear the F/R relays clicking on the fuse panel when I shift the lever, and I have proved they are sending the right signals with a tester as well. But, this thing is well used and there are several wires in the fuse panel that look like they were added later, including several with no obvious connections to anything.
There is a panel under the floormat which looks like it might give access to the top of the transmission, I think my next step is to remove that and check the other end of the wires from the F/R relays
Anyone have any experience with this? Or have general debugging suggestions? I am guessing SOMEPLACE there is a "safety feature" that keeps it from starting while its in gear and it falsely thinks it is already in gear so it wont "shift" into gear either.
Also, while youre here, does anyone know if this is a "wet sleeve" engine that needs coolant additive?
* Naturally I reconnect it for testing. HOWEVER-prior to this problem happening, I never had to switch it off in the first place, there was no current drain during idle periods, even as long as 2 months it never ran the battery down. NOW however, if I leave it connected it runs the battery down overnight and when I charge the battery externally, I can see a couple more amps current flow on the charger if the battery connect is on than if its off.
My backhoe wont start. It is a 20+ yo 5l Iveco Diesel engine with "power-shuttle" (I think thats what they call it) 4-speed clutchless manual with torque converter.
It has electronic F/N/R (no mechanical connections) lever on the column. Lots of hours, but surprisingly few leaks.
Ive had it 3-4 years and it always ran beautifully til this "happened". It lives outside in OH, I don't own a building it would fit in. I think some wires got mouse-chewed someplace during a long idle period (6 mos) last year while my mom was in the hospital and my after work time was spent taking care of her or her house. The backhoe has always had mice, they love the thing. If I needed to build a mouse house for some reason (like those cat tower things) I would shape it like a backhoe. I cover all the openings (this HAS gotten the squirrels out!), but obviously nothing will keep them out of the chassis where all the wires are unless I tether several cats to the thing fulltime, or park in a big vat of acid. But anyway, on to the situation.
The battery is new(ish). The main disconnect is connected.* The fuses are all good, except for the 1 that runs the (nonexistent) radio is blown, guessing the wires dangling loose said hello to each other (long before I got it; the fuse had electrical tape on it which I assume was a reminder that it was blown). Also the main 80A fusible link on the firewall is missing altogether and has been bypassed (before I got it; I will replace once I get this problem solved).
The starter will not engage when key is turned. The electrical accessories seem to all work (lights, wipers, fan). The oil pressure light is on (until it is started) and the glow plug light works as expected (not on until key turned 1 more notch). The gas gauge seems to have stopped working, not sure if there is a relation.
When this problem FIRST happened, the temp gauge was all the way redlined (in February, while 25F ambient ). I suspected there might be a "safety feature" that wouldnt let it start while overheating. I cleaned out a bunch of mouse debris around the thermostat area and the gauge went back to normal (ie all the way cold). But still wouldnt start.
I confirm the gear lever is in neutral. I fondle the "disengage" buttons on the gear stick and bucket control lever to make sure they arent stuck.
If I jumper the fuel value and manually trigger the starter, it starts and runs sweetly as ever (and this is the smoothest diesel I have ever operated).
Once I get it the engine running, all the hydraulics work. The oil pressure light goes out.
BUT, if I try to put it in gear, nothing happens, neither F nor R. I proofed the F/N/R switch with a meter and it is sending correct signals. With the ignition on and the engine not running, I can hear the F/R relays clicking on the fuse panel when I shift the lever, and I have proved they are sending the right signals with a tester as well. But, this thing is well used and there are several wires in the fuse panel that look like they were added later, including several with no obvious connections to anything.
There is a panel under the floormat which looks like it might give access to the top of the transmission, I think my next step is to remove that and check the other end of the wires from the F/R relays
Anyone have any experience with this? Or have general debugging suggestions? I am guessing SOMEPLACE there is a "safety feature" that keeps it from starting while its in gear and it falsely thinks it is already in gear so it wont "shift" into gear either.
Also, while youre here, does anyone know if this is a "wet sleeve" engine that needs coolant additive?
* Naturally I reconnect it for testing. HOWEVER-prior to this problem happening, I never had to switch it off in the first place, there was no current drain during idle periods, even as long as 2 months it never ran the battery down. NOW however, if I leave it connected it runs the battery down overnight and when I charge the battery externally, I can see a couple more amps current flow on the charger if the battery connect is on than if its off.
