Ford 7710 clutch replacement

sandman2234 · Apr 6, 2007

I just found out that the 7710 I have been trying to purchase for the last couple of months will need a clutch, which is what took it out of sevice. I am lucky to have a friend who works there and lets me know these things as they are disclosed.
Does anyone have a ballpark idea of what it would cost to put a clutch in it, and maybe what type of tools I would need should I decide to split the tractor myself?
I could use a ballpark answer if no one has acess to an actual cost.
Anyone recently put a clutch in a 100 hp tractor? How much did it cost and did you do it yourself?
I am more inclined at this point to want a price on what it will cost to have someone replace it, due to it affecting the value of the tractor.
Thanks, David from jax

Farmwithjunk · Apr 6, 2007

sandman2234 said:
I just found out that the 7710 I have been trying to purchase for the last couple of months will need a clutch, which is what took it out of sevice. I am lucky to have a friend who works there and lets me know these things as they are disclosed.
Does anyone have a ballpark idea of what it would cost to put a clutch in it, and maybe what type of tools I would need should I decide to split the tractor myself?
I could use a ballpark answer if no one has acess to an actual cost.
Anyone recently put a clutch in a 100 hp tractor? How much did it cost and did you do it yourself?
I am more inclined at this point to want a price on what it will cost to have someone replace it, due to it affecting the value of the tractor.
Thanks, David from jax

To do the work yourself, you'll need "splitting stands" or some configuration of jacks, jack stands, hoist's, and blocking to SAFELY handle 2 halves of a tractor. You'll need the correct alignment tool to re-install the new clutch, as well as all the hand tools to bolt and unbolt everything. Generally, just about every tractor ever built will require a few odd "special tools" to set and/or install clutch parts on that particular model. I'm sure the 7710 is no different. Usually those special tools can be worked around somehow, but at the sacrifice of speed and accuracy.

Then there's the manuals. You BETTER have a SERVICE manual (at the very least)

A friend recently had a clutch put in an 8000 Ford (@ New Holland dealer) . He had a few other minor details attended to while the work was going on. Bill was close to $2000. Not sure exactly how much was the clutch job, but it was MOST of that I'm sure.

sandman2234 · Apr 6, 2007

Thanks FWJ,
I called the local Ford/New Holland dealer this morning and they quoted me anywhere from 700 to 1800 for the parts, and 21 hours of labor at $75 an hour to redo it, using somewhat "worse case scenerio". I would rather find out that it didn't cost me that much, than it costs more than my estimate, although a little either way isn't going to make a difference. Another shop here in town that I have never used, but very much like the people that work there, as I buy incidentals from them, such as pins and things quoted me $1200 but I am not sure if that included the parts, thinking back on the way the conversation went. He will probably pick the tractor up for me and bring it to my house (or his shop) due to the reasonable price he set on moving it.
Thanks again, David from jax

Soundguy · Apr 8, 2007

That parts # sounds about right.. depending on if you need extra's.. like a new flywheel.. or a resurfacing.. etc.. etc. I was looking up parts for a similar tractor mind you.. but was close enough for balpark. The labor is what gets you as you can see. Also.. as has been pointed out here and ,in my PM, I said if you split it yerself.. have the big cribbing ready.. Also.. as a tip.. for most ford manual trannies.. you can remove the tranny input shaft and use it as an alignment tool. just get a new seal/gasket.. etc.. which is recomended anyway if you have her split..

soundguy

RickB · Apr 8, 2007

An inexperienced mechanic should not remove the input to a dual power transmsion unless he wished to become an experienced mechanic. A quality clutch job should include 3 new expansion plugs at the back of the motor, a new rear main seal, and a hard look at the splines on the PTO driveshaft and hub. A rear (double) split is required to swap out a PTO driveshaft with severely worn splines.

sandman2234 · Apr 8, 2007

Should I have to do this clutch job, and decide to do it myself, with a friend helping, I will start by building a couple of stands that will bolt onto the tractor in places such as the side of the engine and the side of the tranny. My idea would be kind of an "A" frame arrangement with tabs sticking up to run alongside those items. Rollers (4) on each should allow it to move without tipping. Something along the line of all-thread to keep the halves aligned and hopefully no accidents. I would probably take the measurements from the input shaft and turn something up in the lathe to make an alignment tool, unless one can be purchased or borrowed/rented for less than about $20. I may give the flywheel a whirl, or send it to the shop next door to where I worked for several years. They had a resurfacing machine, which would probably do a better job than my mill.
The part that worries me most is knowing what has to come apart, where it comes apart and in what sequence it goes back together again. Guess I just take everything that crosses the bellhousing line apart and put it back in in the reverse order I removed it. A few pictures along the way to jog my memory as I will probably be on and off the job over a period of time.
I thought I had a shop manual for this tractor, but turns out it is for a smaller one (2310 2610 2810 2910 3610 3910 4110 4610 230a 234 334 335 530a 1981/2-90). Just thought I would mention that in case somebody else needs one. I may ebay it since I don't forsee needing it. Hopefully they still have the shop manual for this tractor and are willing to let me have it. They did give me all the manuals for my JD2555 so I am hopeful of the same treatment with this one, however most of the people and the way they handled this sale has changed since the way of the JD, I may find out different.
David from jax

Robert_in_NY · Apr 8, 2007

Rick does know what he is talking about so if he suggest taking it to someone with experience I would ask around to see who in your area is good at working with these trannys and decide from there. I know I would just take it to my New Holland dealer because they have the proper tools and shop to do the work on this size tractor. I can probably do it but I need to rely on my 7710 during the summer and I do not want to learn how to repair this tranny during my busy season. The only thing worse than having to split a tractor is having to split it again because you didn't do something right the first time.At the very least I would be good friends with the Ford/NH dealer before trying to do this. I know my NH mechanics and they will take the time to help me out and explain things if I am having trouble. Plus they let me borrow some of the tools from the shop if I need to

Farmwithjunk · Apr 8, 2007

From the beginning of this thread, I've been fighting off the urge to throw a wet blanket on the fire, but here goes....

Splitting a tractor is a real job, even with proper equipment and a little experience. The first one is an experience you don't forget. There's more things you can do wrong, un-neccessarily, or in reverse order than you can ever imagine. Some of the things that can go wrong involve DROPPING 1/2 a tractor. Even with splitting stands, you've got a heavy, awkward chunk of iron to pull apart. A better "first timer" would be a smaller, lighter tractor IMHO. You're looking at an expensive labor charge for a job that's worth every penny it will cost.

I've split 8 tractors in my lifetime. I've got 2 in line to be restored that need clutches. I almost always do all of my own wrenching. I'm paying someone to put in the clutches. I won't miss doing it myself one slight bit.

R W · Apr 8, 2007

Have not split a tractor this size,from experience with smaller tractors
(Fordson PM) I would suggest the following.
Consult a workshop manual if possible or some one with experience.
Construct or borrow a suitable trolley or floor jack to wheel engine forward.
Place a jack under the drawbar as well as the front of the transmission.
Wedge front of engine so it cannot move on the axle pivot.
Check that there is nothing inside the clutch housing that needs undoing,
(M-F65MP has hydraulic lines inside).Remove all neccessary bolts etc.
Find out what alignment tools are needed(make or borrow).Insulation tape
wrapped around a length of rod will sometimes work.
Guild bolts can make reassembly easier.
Have suitable blocks, stands,and an extra jack on hand.

john_bud · Apr 8, 2007

I tend to agree with Farmwithjunk. That is a LARGE tractor and about 3x the trouble of a small (hundred series, early thousand) tractor.

BUT, 21 hours at $75 is a bundle of dough.

If you are handy with fabrication of stuff out of steel, I would suggest building a splitting trolly, probably a couple hundred bucks in materials and stuff. If you can get 2x3 tubing and make bolt on side rails on one half and 3x4 on the other side that will slide inside each other, it should help out a lot. However, you will have more than a ton of angry metal on each side of you just waiting to crush you like a bug. Never forget that. Stout jack stands and roll around floor jacks and engine hoists or chain fall on an "I" beam should be used along with your trolly.

If you are going to go for it, make sure you have all the sockets, wrenches, torch, penetrating fluids, hammers and things that will be needed. On a big job, I like to start with the penetrating oil a week in advance (Kroil or the stuff GM sells as Heat Pipe Lubricant).

jb

whitetiger · Apr 8, 2007

If I remember correctly the NH repair time is listed at about 9 hours for a 7710 FWA flatdeck to R&R a clutch.
I have split approx 250 tractor in the last 27 years. They have ranged in size from compacts to 200 plus HP. The 7710 is one of the simplest of its size to split. Remove the hoods and fuel tanks and you will see that everything is in the open and easy to get to. They are pretty much goof-proof. If you need pages from the repair manuel scanned, email me and I will send them to you.

sandman2234 · Apr 11, 2007

I completely agree that this shouldn't be my first tractor to split, and it probably won't be. I have a friend who needs a B6000 split and I am negotiating with him to swap labor and tools. I have pretty much all the tools that it takes to fab metal, and before I started the flatbed/dump trailer a couple months ago(yes I am slow, with very little free time) I had a lot of extra metal. The pile is nowhere nearly as large as it was, but still has some good stuff in it! I have two rollaround toolboxes full of wrenches and such, as I worked in a machine shop for a couple years and needed a new set of tools, because I was doing work at home along with at the shop. The boss gave me a toolbox allowance since I was hired with a "no tools" requirement.
I have an old Ford truck with a jib crane on it, along with a crane rail that projects about 8' past the rear of the truck. My forklift is acting up, but it will still raise and lower, just won't move under it's own power. Something that needs to be fixed and sold!
I am not above building a crane rail directly above the tractor, with two hoists to suspend both halves.
Hopefully I will know if the clutch needs replacement in a week or so, when they get around to releasing it.
I may ask for help concerning the splitting tools mentioned, in case I need to build one similar.
I asked the auction company to check into the manuals, but as expected, I got no reply. I will have one before I tempt fate!
Thanks to all, especially FWJ, as I KNOW he means exactly what he says. I would consider having it done, but SWMBO isn't going to release funding for a clutch job, so I will have to make the money with the JD to pay for it, something I really didn't want to do.
David from jax
Thanks

sandman2234 · Apr 26, 2007

Well, the good news is...
The 7710 managed to finally show up at my house today, so now I have a big blue thing sitting in the driveway! It is much, much larger than it seemed when it was parked near those other huge tractors.
I wisely paid someone to move it, despite the hassle it was to get everything together. I at first thought I might be able to haul it on that flatbed/dump trailer I am building, but it isn't ready and my buddy told me not to try it. After seeing it on a Landoll trailer, I feel foolish for even contemplating it. With it measuring 11' 3" wide at the tires, it was an adventure to get down the 2 mile narrow road that comes off the main street. Doing it at 5pm didn't help the drivers' nerves any I am sure.
Clutch seems ok. It climbed a Landoll trailer today, with the mower attached, and didn't seem to mind. I know that isn't loading it very heavy, but just the general feel of it seems ok.
The bad news is there is a hydraulic leak coming from somewhere around there, so if the seal is bad, it will have to be split anyway. Hopefully not, but that is going to have to wait till I can find a manual.
One reason I missed the several hydraulic leaks, was the fact that the rear end dipstick wouldn't touch the bottom of the dipstick. Hard to leak when there isn't anything to leak.
I found what appears to be a serial number, and it is probably a 1985 or 1986 model.
I need to get horizontal as 3am comes early when you have to work for a living.
David from jax

john_bud · Apr 26, 2007

David,

Congrats on getting the machine home - and even more congrats for doing it the smart way!

If you think you may need to split it, start spraying all the bolts, nuts and things now. If there are bolts and nuts that have been painted over, wire brush them clean and spray. Find the size of the bolts and nuts - make sure you have the wrenches, sockets (and strong impact wrench!) for all the sizes. I found it somewhat inconvenient to travel 38 miles to the store for a socket when you're about 7/8th of the way thru a split....

good luck,
jb

sandman2234 · Apr 27, 2007

I plan on doing the PB spray routine this weekend. Probably need at least a couple gallons! I might look into some Kroil, but I have plenty of PB Blaster on hand.
I am pretty well set on the tool dept, as I had a rollaround full when I went to work for a friends machine shop, and he couldn't afford me and my toolbox (since I work at home also, I needed them there), so he gave me a tool allowance and I purchased a whole new set of tools. When I left there, I brought them home and have two rollarounds full scattered somewhere in my garage. I feel reasonably sure I have all of the wrenches and sockets. I will need to look into the impact situation, as the shop supplied all of them, and I might not have one strong enough to handle this thing.
David from jax

jeffreyb · Mar 31, 2013

im doing a clutch in my ford tw 5 right now can get a kit with clutch presure plate pilot bearing for 435.00 i also have to put one in my 7710 that kit i can get for 411.00 from all states ag parts i have done several clutches on my ford tractors not that hard with splitting stands or an a-frame hoist hiring it done im thinkin at least 1000.00 all state ag parts are great source for good parts new ,used and rebuilt ill give you the number you can call for a free catalogue 1-877-530-4430 hope this helps

jeffreyb · Mar 31, 2013

hey im going to split my 7710 could you send me some pages ive done my 8000 4000 fords but not the 7710 glad its an easy split never done the fwa tractor before but like to do things myself always a learning expirience also im havin trouble with the fwa wont dissengage how do i test the solenoid to se if its what the problem is thanks very much jeffreyb@rrt.net

AGRIMAN · Apr 1, 2013

Like whitetiger, I have split many tractors of all sizes. I would say that if you have never split one before…. then your first time could be a little "challenging" , but I guess that also depends on your mechanical ability. Just take your time and watch what you are doing and you should be fine. Splitting stands are nice especially if working alone, but most of the time I just use a good floor jack (heavy 2 ½ ton or larger shop size)under the front and a bottle jack under the rear. It's sounds like you have some extra help so you should be fine there too.

In my opinion, most larger tractors are easier to split than a compact. It’s usually easier to reach everything that needs disconnecting and the added weight seems to help when “rocking” it back together.

Here’s a few tips that will help.

1. Cut some wooden wedges to lock out the front axle. You can easily adjust them when reassembling if needed.
2. Watch the floor jack when rolling it apart and make sure it doesn’t slip.
3. Push evenly on both front tires and rolling it straight as you can. Just makes it easier to reassemble.
4. Separate it just far enough to give yourself room to work.
5. Place both halves on jack stands or blocks when separated.
6. When going back together, watch the gap between the engine and clutch housing (both top to bottom and side to side) make small corrections as needed to insure when they meet everything is straight.
7. DO NOT pull it together with the bolts. Once you have it close, you can start a few bell housing bolt by hand to use as guides if you want to but make sure it comes together on its own. Don’t apply any force to the bolts with a wrench and “pull” it together.