Ford 7610 hydraulic newby

[Warrenpfo]

Good day all. Longtime reader first time poster so be kind.

To give some background i am somewhat practically minded and am good with my hands and dont have the funds to just buy new parts or get someone in to fix it so am hoping the combined brainpower and knowledge of the forum can help educate and solve my new to me Ford 7610 hydraulic niggles.

We bought this tractor about 3 years ago and the hydralics have never been great since day one. I can't profess to know the year so maybe starting there is a good place.

After that the tractor seems to only have the internal pump and no external just a blanking plate.

The rear lift arms are slow to respond but do work and there is a constant "bouncing" *cycling of the pump to retain lift of any rear impliment if left at full hight and I dont pull the diverter on the right side to stop flow to the arms once they are at the top.

The diverter would seem to divery flow to the loader which is painfully slow and only works if the diverter valve is out (will have to confirm if it's out or pushed in) and the rear lift arm lever is in the up position. If down it won't work.

Illupload what pictures I have in the hope it helps and the tractor sits at a small holding some 3h away and I am only there once a month so might be slow in responding with information when needed.

I dont use the rear valves although might like to keep there functionalllity for a tip trailer or log splitter one day but would really like to get to the bottom of the slow hydraulics and tidy it all up.

I have changed the filter under the right side step and the screen was cleaned, i assume this is the internal pump?

I have also changed the hydraulic fluid and checked to makes use the level is correct at the rear dipstick.

Something I have also noted is that if the tractor is nose up I loose hydralic power.

Hope this all makes sense and I appreciate and input but do treat me like a novice/dummy.

 

[Warrenpfo]

 

[Harry in Ky]

A couple observations. It looks like the tractor had an engine driven pump at one point, and someone removed it and most of the plumbing. The plate covering the pump mounting point looks fabricated not factory. I'm not sure how removing that pump's oil supply will affect the action of the combining valve. Tractors without the front pump use a similar valve body, but to be honest I don't know what (if any) internal differences there are. I have books somewhere that would explain that but I've never had to study that portion.

There may some issues with the auxiliary service valve (spool with the black knob) that may be affecting the loader valve operation. I've seen a number of machines with that valve, but not sure if anyone uses them. Most loaders I see are either operated using the remote valves or with a live power sandwich block when the tractor has only the internal pump.

The bouncing of the lift arms can be a result of poor lift cylinder seals as well as some control valve issues. You may be able to narrow that down a bit by raising the lift with weight on the arms, shutting the engine off and observing how fast the arms drop. That may tell you something.

 

[Warrenpfo]

Thanks for the reply. Perhaps when next I am at the property I should remove the pump cover plate to see what if anything sits under it if that would help??

I am also happy to re plumb the loader if you think it will solve the issue.

I will also raise the rear arms with a weight on and give you a time to drop. I know they do and want to say it's over night but I'll double check and get back to you.

I am there next weekend.

 

[Harry in Ky]

If the three point will hold a load for even twenty minutes the piston seals are not the problem. No need to remove the pump mounting cover plate. Nothing under there but a gear on the end of the camshaft. My questions are more concerning the valve body on top of the lift housing. The one with the elbow fitting that's capped off. I'm not sure there could be some issues there without oil flow from the front pump. I'm just not familiar enough with the inner workings of that valve to have an opinion.

If it were my project I would be considering adding a sandwich plate to the mix to supply the loader valve directly and simply not use the diverter valve at all. However, the custom seat support looks like it might interfere with that option.

The loader is slow? Does it seem to have adequate power to lift weight even though it seems slow? Those tractors had the option of adding the engine pump to improve the speed of implements powered through the remote valves, but the lift system and (I believe) the diverter valve spool are supplied only from the internal pump. It's also possible the internal pump is just plain tired. Does the paint color on the pump indicate it's been there a while or does it look like it may have been replaced at some point?

 

[TractorTech]

Welcome to TBN!

What a plumbing horror show. I started my reply earlier today, but see Harry has answered quite a few things on here. I too thought that it might have had a front pump at one time, but now I see the line going up the right side is just for the lift cylinder on the left.
Since you are limited on funds and just want it working, you might want to plumb the loader pressure and return lines into one of the remote valves on the rear. You can lock the remote into detent or tie it into place. Of course you will have to plug the outlet that the pressure and return lines go to now.
A sandwich block under the unload valve would be the ultimate and a long run solution, but you would have to spend a bit on that setup.

The line you show next to the loader pressure line on the 3pt top cover you labeled 'suspect' is for the 3pt lift assist cylinder and that is fine.

The rear pump by itself, when working properly is a 9 gallon/minute pump and is enough to lift that loader quickly.

From your video, it looks like the pump is not painted, which means it has probably been replaced at some point