Ford 7610 hydraulic newby

[Warrenpfo]

Good day all. Longtime reader first time poster so be kind.

To give some background i am somewhat practically minded and am good with my hands and dont have the funds to just buy new parts or get someone in to fix it so am hoping the combined brainpower and knowledge of the forum can help educate and solve my new to me Ford 7610 hydraulic niggles.

We bought this tractor about 3 years ago and the hydralics have never been great since day one. I can't profess to know the year so maybe starting there is a good place.

After that the tractor seems to only have the internal pump and no external just a blanking plate.

The rear lift arms are slow to respond but do work and there is a constant "bouncing" *cycling of the pump to retain lift of any rear impliment if left at full hight and I dont pull the diverter on the right side to stop flow to the arms once they are at the top.

The diverter would seem to divery flow to the loader which is painfully slow and only works if the diverter valve is out (will have to confirm if it's out or pushed in) and the rear lift arm lever is in the up position. If down it won't work.

Illupload what pictures I have in the hope it helps and the tractor sits at a small holding some 3h away and I am only there once a month so might be slow in responding with information when needed.

I dont use the rear valves although might like to keep there functionalllity for a tip trailer or log splitter one day but would really like to get to the bottom of the slow hydraulics and tidy it all up.

I have changed the filter under the right side step and the screen was cleaned, i assume this is the internal pump?

I have also changed the hydraulic fluid and checked to makes use the level is correct at the rear dipstick.

Something I have also noted is that if the tractor is nose up I loose hydralic power.

Hope this all makes sense and I appreciate and input but do treat me like a novice/dummy.

 

[Warrenpfo]

 

[Harry in Ky]

A couple observations. It looks like the tractor had an engine driven pump at one point, and someone removed it and most of the plumbing. The plate covering the pump mounting point looks fabricated not factory. I'm not sure how removing that pump's oil supply will affect the action of the combining valve. Tractors without the front pump use a similar valve body, but to be honest I don't know what (if any) internal differences there are. I have books somewhere that would explain that but I've never had to study that portion.

There may some issues with the auxiliary service valve (spool with the black knob) that may be affecting the loader valve operation. I've seen a number of machines with that valve, but not sure if anyone uses them. Most loaders I see are either operated using the remote valves or with a live power sandwich block when the tractor has only the internal pump.

The bouncing of the lift arms can be a result of poor lift cylinder seals as well as some control valve issues. You may be able to narrow that down a bit by raising the lift with weight on the arms, shutting the engine off and observing how fast the arms drop. That may tell you something.

 

[Warrenpfo]

Thanks for the reply. Perhaps when next I am at the property I should remove the pump cover plate to see what if anything sits under it if that would help??

I am also happy to re plumb the loader if you think it will solve the issue.

I will also raise the rear arms with a weight on and give you a time to drop. I know they do and want to say it's over night but I'll double check and get back to you.

I am there next weekend.