Ford 4.6l Electrolysis

[deerefan]

As posted before, I own a 97 F150, 4x4 with the 4.6. In 2009, I had a new engine installed at 145k miles due to a cracked head (it was only 1k more for the new motor vs fixing/replacing heads). The truck was seldom used until August of last year. I have put 15k miles on it since. It developed a random miss on cylinder 4. After much trial and error, it was found to have water in that cylinder. I brought it back to the mechanic and it was discovered the head gasket between 3 and 4 was severely compromised. We spoke for a while, talking over the history of the past few years since the engine was installed. We came up with 2 conclusions- due to the occasional use of the truck and the new ethanol fuels, the #4 injector became partially gummed up, causing a lean condition (the obd system did throw this code once) and burned the gasket, beginning the deterioration process. Electrolysis did the rest. He has replaced the gaskets and is adding an extra ground to deter the electrolysis and also suggested burn at least a tank a fuel a month- ethanol fuel is destructive, especially to aluminum, and breaks down faster than traditional gasoline. Basically, allowing the truck to sit caused more harm than good. What is your input on the electrolysis and fuel issues with these Ford Mod motors?

 

[Diamondpilot]

As posted before, I own a 97 F150, 4x4 with the 4.6. In 2009, I had a new engine installed at 145k miles due to a cracked head (it was only 1k more for the new motor vs fixing/replacing heads). The truck was seldom used until August of last year. I have put 15k miles on it since. It developed a random miss on cylinder 4. After much trial and error, it was found to have water in that cylinder. I brought it back to the mechanic and it was discovered the head gasket between 3 and 4 was severely compromised. We spoke for a while, talking over the history of the past few years since the engine was installed. We came up with 2 conclusions- due to the occasional use of the truck and the new ethanol fuels, the #4 injector became partially gummed up, causing a lean condition (the obd system did throw this code once) and burned the gasket, beginning the deterioration process. Electrolysis did the rest. He has replaced the gaskets and is adding an extra ground to deter the electrolysis and also suggested burn at least a tank a fuel a month- ethanol fuel is destructive, especially to aluminum, and breaks down faster than traditional gasoline. Basically, allowing the truck to sit caused more harm than good. What is your input on the electrolysis and fuel issues with these Ford Mod motors?

It's a Ethanol issue and lack of use. I see the same thing in Marine based GM motors and in all makes of outboards.

It has nothing to do with who makes the motor. It's a fuel issue.

Chris

 

[94BULLITT]

It sounds like something may have not been done properly when the engine was rebuilt for the head gasket to fail.

If the engine was running lean it you would have probably had a CEL light.

Did he replace the #4 injector?

 

[deerefan]

It sounds like something may have not been done properly when the engine was rebuilt for the head gasket to fail.

If the engine was running lean it you would have probably had a CEL light.

Did he replace the #4 injector?

Originally no. I did get a cel on this about 3 months ago, ran a bottle of seafoam thru it, reset the light and it did not come back on. He has replaced the injector now while repairing the head gasket.

 

[Soundguy]

i think i'd also take the additional step to run some sca/dca conditioner in the coolant.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

As posted before, I own a 97 F150, 4x4 with the 4.6. In 2009, I had a new engine installed at 145k miles due to a cracked head (it was only 1k more for the new motor vs fixing/replacing heads). The truck was seldom used until August of last year. I have put 15k miles on it since. It developed a random miss on cylinder 4. After much trial and error, it was found to have water in that cylinder. I brought it back to the mechanic and it was discovered the head gasket between 3 and 4 was severely compromised. We spoke for a while, talking over the history of the past few years since the engine was installed. We came up with 2 conclusions- due to the occasional use of the truck and the new ethanol fuels, the #4 injector became partially gummed up, causing a lean condition (the obd system did throw this code once) and burned the gasket, beginning the deterioration process. Electrolysis did the rest. He has replaced the gaskets and is adding an extra ground to deter the electrolysis and also suggested burn at least a tank a fuel a month- ethanol fuel is destructive, especially to aluminum, and breaks down faster than traditional gasoline. Basically, allowing the truck to sit caused more harm than good. What is your input on the electrolysis and fuel issues with these Ford Mod motors?

Bolt on a sacrificial zinc anode.

 

[deerefan]

i think i'd also take the additional step to run some sca/dca conditioner in the coolant.

Pardon my lack of info...this was added to the coolant with the head gasket repair. Does this electrolysis issue effect other brands also? I know ethanol does not discriminate, but what about electrolysis?

 

[deerefan]

Bolt on a sacrificial zinc anode.

Thanks Eric. Can you dumb this down for me...what is a sacrificial zinc anode? An extra ground wire was added.

 

[Soundguy]

Pardon my lack of info...this was added to the coolant with the head gasket repair. Does this electrolysis issue effect other brands also? I know ethanol does not discriminate, but what about electrolysis?

electrolysis is common any time you have disimilar metals... some engines have the added problem oc cavitation as well .. like wet sleeve diesels.. so stuff like sca/dca addatives were packaged to help prevent cavitation and electrolysis in the cooling system. there are some thread sealant/lubricants/preparations that also inhibit disimilar metal problems between fasteners and threaded materials.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Thanks Eric. Can you dumb this down for me...what is a sacrificial zinc anode? An extra ground wire was added.

A zink anode wants to "soak up" all the energy from electrolysis before allowing anything else to corrode or rust. Thus an anode "sacrifices" itself to protect other metals. Zinc and magnesium are good metals to use and since zinc is inexpensive it gets the nod.

How does a anode work? By bolting a zinc block/wad/whatever-shape-it-is-in up to the frame. However you want to bolt it up is fine.

Here is a long answer as to how a sacrificial anode works: Sacrificial Anode - Chemwiki

A good marine store will have access to zinc anodes or you can get them from Amazon too. You may need to modify the zinc by drilling mounting holes.

Marine anode

Here is a cheap one on Amazon.

 

[alchemysa]

How does a anode work? By bolting a zinc block/wad/whatever-shape-it-is-in up to the frame. However you want to bolt it up is fine.

You need a liquid electrolyte (i.e water) to provide an electrical path between the the metal you want to save and the sacrificial anode. So you won't save a head by bolting an anode to the block or the chassis. If only it was that easy!

 

[alchemysa]

Its a bit of a pain to go in and re-tighten the head bolts a month or two after installing a new or reconditioned engine but really thats the best way to prevent the damage described in the OP's first post.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Its a bit of a pain to go in and re-tighten the head bolts a month or two after installing a new or reconditioned engine but really thats the best way to prevent the damage described in the OP's first post.

The tractor I just sold called for head bolt re torque at 50 hrs.

Chris

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Its a bit of a pain to go in and re-tighten the head bolts a month or two after installing a new or reconditioned engine but really thats the best way to prevent the damage described in the OP's first post.

In twenty years as a tech, I've never had to re-torque head bolts.

Railroad and industrial marine engines have re-torque specs but that is because some heads are so long in V16 applications and the defunct V20 (which had a tendency to twist crankshafts leading to an early retirement) applications.

Short heads should not need to be re-torqued. The longest head I ever encountered was Ford's 300 straight six and it has no re-torque spec.

That said, if a spec calls for re-torquing, do it.

Redline 1025 rpm, baby! The V20 engine in the video below is rated at 5000hp at 900 rpm. Maximum performance, industrial style.