Ford 3000 diesel project Help please

[Kenthemastergardener]

I have a 1969 3000 diesel I just rebuilt; bored, sleeved, new pistons, rings, etc. It was running before but had low compression. I just finished the rebuild and tried to crank and it will not hit. I checked the timing and reset the intermediate gear with the fly on 0 degrees the #1 valves positioned correctly, the injection pump on 0 degrees etc. All gears are lined up and dotted per the book. It still won't hit. It has a CAV pump. I have bleed everything on the fuel system and have fuel to the injectors. The injectors are new because our local shop wanted more money to clean and reset them than a new set cost me. I am wondering if they may be the wrong injectors for this application. Anyone have an idea what else may cause this problem.
Thanks

 

[whodat526]

could be the wrong injectors since them tractors also came with a simms pump but when i time a 3000 i set the fly wheel on 18 degrees btdc

 

[banjodunn]

G'day as stated they did come out with both pumps but i am sure your shop would have sold you the right inj ..... the pump timing worries me though i donot have a manual on hand to check but 0deg does not sound right to me



Jon

 

[Kenthemastergardener]

Wow thanks. That could be it. I get lots of white smoke out of the exhaust when we try to crank it, so I am sure we are getting fuel to the pistons.

 

[Jerry/MT]

I have a 1969 3000 diesel I just rebuilt; bored, sleeved, new pistons, rings, etc. It was running before but had low compression. I just finished the rebuild and tried to crank and it will not hit. I checked the timing and reset the intermediate gear with the fly on 0 degrees the #1 valves positioned correctly, the injection pump on 0 degrees etc. All gears are lined up and dotted per the book. It still won't hit. It has a CAV pump. I have bleed everything on the fuel system and have fuel to the injectors. The injectors are new because our local shop wanted more money to clean and reset them than a new set cost me. I am wondering if they may be the wrong injectors for this application. Anyone have an idea what else may cause this problem.
Thanks

If you're timed to TDC I think that's your problem. Byt the time the fuel is injected the piston is way down on the powerstroke and the temperature and is dropping in the cylinder. It should some where between 15° and 20° BTDC. Your owners manual or shop manual should tell you the correct timing.

 

[Kenthemastergardener]

So you dot the cam and crank with the fly wheel at 18 BTDC or do you set the cam, and crank at 0 deg, then rotate it to 18 deg and install the injector pump?

 

[Kenthemastergardener]

I reset the injector gear with the fly wheel at 18 deg BTDC. It only moved the injector gear 1 tooth. Still won't hit. I tried a couple of teeth either direction, still won't hit. Any suggestions?

 

[whodat526]

u must have all the dots on the gears lined up then u can also advance the pump up to 30 degrees and retarded it 30 degrees by loosening the 3 bolts on the injection pump and turn it on derection or the other

 

[Kenthemastergardener]

Not on my pump it is a CAV and it has a dowel, it will only bolt up 1 way.

 

[whodat526]

the three bolts that hold the pump on not the the drive gear

 

[Kenthemastergardener]

Oh OK. Thanks

 

[whodat526]

yea becuase when i said set the crank on 18 degrees i was thinking of a sims pump even tho u said u had a cav pump my mind got side tract but u adjust the timing on a cav pump by the three bolts holding the pump on

 

[midsetberg]

So you dot the cam and crank with the fly wheel at 18 BTDC or do you set the cam, and crank at 0 deg, then rotate it to 18 deg and install the injector pump?

According to my manual:
Turn the engine until no 1 piston is on the compression stroke and the 19° btdc mark on the flywheel is aligned with the timing mark in the inspection window found on the bottom right rear of the engine. Remove the inspection plate from the front of the engine timing cover ant check that the pump timing marks are aligned - if the marks are not aligned loosen the three bolts that hold the drive gear to the pump flange and rotate the flange until the marks line up.

 

[Kenthemastergardener]

OK with the timing issue resolved, I have concluded that I have low compression. I got a testeer and it measured 250 well below the 400 minimum required. Anyone have an idea as to what would cause such low compression. I have double checked the valves twice and they are set correctly according tot he manual.

 

[David-Davies]

Hello Kenthemastergardener. From your first post, you have new pistions, rings rebored, good as new. Two questons, was it done in a good machine shop, and did you have the head tested and rebuilt???? Having had a really bad experience, with a machine shop, I had to pull my engine twice. Second time it went to a well known shop.

David-Davies

 

[whodat526]

if low compression pull start it and run it under a load for a couple of hours the rings are most likely not seated yet and running a bushhog or something that will load the motor will help set the rings

 

[whodat526]

According to my manual:
Turn the engine until no 1 piston is on the compression stroke and the 19ｰ btdc mark on the flywheel is aligned with the timing mark in the inspection window found on the bottom right rear of the engine. Remove the inspection plate from the front of the engine timing cover ant check that the pump timing marks are aligned - if the marks are not aligned loosen the three bolts that hold the drive gear to the pump flange and rotate the flange until the marks line up.

the cav pumps have a dial pin in the drive gear of them so u can not rotate them you can only rotate the drive gear on a sims pumps

 

[Kenthemastergardener]

Can't you pull the gear off, rotate the shaft of the CAV pump until the gear lines up and then bolt it back on?

 

[Ford tractor]

1) are you 180 degrees out of phase? ie on the exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke? VERY easy to do that.

2) are the valves adjusted too tight? Tight valves allow compression to go past as they are not seated.

3) are the rings end gap off set? Ring gaps lined up can allow a lot of compression out.



I've never had issue with low compression on a new short block (lower end). Typically, the rings are so tight it's a bear to spin. Only issues ever have been timing 180 out, valves tight and pump/injectors being bad.

 

[Kenthemastergardener]

I found the problem. The pistons they sent me are 1/4 inch too short.