FORD 2000 3CYL GAS WONT FIRE

[Jerry/MT]

THANKYOU,MY NEW TRACTOR IS HOME AT MY BARN!!..I RECHECKED ALL MY CONNECTIONS,RESET POINT GAP..DID TSP OF OIL IN 2 EASY CYLINDERS..THEN I HAD THROTTLE ROD IN PROPER POSITION,ALL THE WAY UP,HARD..JUMPED MY TRUCK TO FRESH BAT ON TRACTOR..INSTEAD OF BLOWING ETHER IN CARB BOTTOM I REALLY JUST KEPT SQUIRTING IN AIR INTAKE ALOT,,IT SLOWLY STARTED TO STRNG SOME POPS TOGETHER!!!.THEN IT RAN!!..RAN IT FOR 15,,NO SMOKE OUT OF STACK AT ALL,ALL SEEMED WELL,,TSTAT DIDNT OPEN YET BUT I WANTED TO GET IT HOME,,OIL IS BLACK AND IN A PERFECT WORLD I WOULD HAVE CHANGED IT BEFORE THE 3.5 MILE RIDE HOME,,,WORKED GREAT UP AND DOWN HILLS ETC,,LOT OF SMOKE OUT OF CRANKCASE VENT...DIRTY OIL?..AFTER PARKED IT DRIPPED SOME WHITISH GOO OUT OF THERE TOO,MAYBE A TLBS...THANKS SOUNDGUY,,JIM

gald you got it to run.

I don't want to rain on your parade but I doubt that the smoke out the crankcase vent is from dirty oil! Did the engine get to operating temperture in the 3.5 miles to your barn? Sounds like it didn't. That whitish goo could be water condensate/oil mist from sitting outside for a while and not being operated or it could be something else. Change the oil and carefully examine what you drain out.

Don't work the tractor if you can't get it to operating temperature. Check the thermostat, the water pump, and belt tension and make sure those components are working, replacing whatever is not if you find something bad. Then get the engine to operating temperature and see if the blowby is reduced.

 

[Soundguy]

he might have sticky rings from setting.. that may have been part of his starting problem.

if it were mine, I'd dump some atf in each cyl and then change the oil, looking for coolant emulsion.. if none, change oil and filter and service air filter, then roll the engine over now and then by hand ( plugs out of course.

change oil in the rear sumps, and then dump some atf in the engine oil and the gas and then go run her for a days worth of work.

after that I'd check the compression.. dry then wet, warmed engine, throttle open all the way, gas off.

soundguy

 

[CHEEKS]

Thanks so much,Okay,this thing sat for almost a yr.The oil is beyond filthy.I figured all this would contribute to the blowby,The tlbs of goo concerns me..the stack blew clear all the way home,unless i reved it a good bit it would belch black for a sec..Now how much ATF am i dumping in cyls?.and mixing with gas?..I gotta get a book,,wheres rear sumps?..Its a 74' im almost sure of but not 100%on model as theres only i set of numbers over serial#..Jim

he might have sticky rings from setting.. that may have been part of his starting problem.

if it were mine, I'd dump some atf in each cyl and then change the oil, looking for coolant emulsion.. if none, change oil and filter and service air filter, then roll the engine over now and then by hand ( plugs out of course.

change oil in the rear sumps, and then dump some atf in the engine oil and the gas and then go run her for a days worth of work.

after that I'd check the compression.. dry then wet, warmed engine, throttle open all the way, gas off.

soundguy

 

[CHEEKS]

Thanks so much,when and if it warms ill do a lot of work on it,huntin this week,,i figure if there was problem with moisture it would smoke whitish out the stack which was clear unless i reved it a good bit it would belch black for a sec,,i have to get a manuel also..i thick it was neglected before it sat the yr and also coming off of plowing snow during out bad winter last yr..can this tractor run on 2 cylinders if say # 3 wire came off cap?..Old Dist nipple was all worn on inside as if wire contact was off and vibrating on inside of it..all chewed up and that contact was solid rust,of course this was how i found it,not now,thankyou,Jim

gald you got it to run.

I don't want to rain on your parade but I doubt that the smoke out the crankcase vent is from dirty oil! Did the engine get to operating temperture in the 3.5 miles to your barn? Sounds like it didn't. That whitish goo could be water condensate/oil mist from sitting outside for a while and not being operated or it could be something else. Change the oil and carefully examine what you drain out.

Don't work the tractor if you can't get it to operating temperature. Check the thermostat, the water pump, and belt tension and make sure those components are working, replacing whatever is not if you find something bad. Then get the engine to operating temperature and see if the blowby is reduced.

 

[Soundguy]

put some atf in the fyls.. at least a few ounces each.. plugs in loosely to keep debri out.. then let it set and pull plugs prior to turning the engine over after a day.. etc.

then remove plugs and crank over to expell the oil.

as for atf in the fuel and oil.. say half quart each...

soundguy

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I would get the old oil and filter changed out and go with a good diesel oil like Rotella 5W-40 and change the filter about every 10 hours. If you are going to warm up the engine before you drain I would dump a can of Sea Foam into the crankcase and let it run for 20 minutes. I could consider a new filter first just in case the current one is in by-pass mode already.

If you are going to change it cold then let it drain for a while then go back with most any oil and a new filter and it warmed up and add a can of Sea Foam and work it for a few hours and change it again.

Sea Foam will help flush the build up out of the ring groves and all other build up. Keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge.

Blow-by is normal in these gas engines from my experience once they get some hours on them. As long as the compression is high enought to start and work do not rebuilt one unless you plan to use it 40 hours a week for hire.

I would like to have a small FEL around the place that would start and run.

 

[Jbrink64]

I would make sure it gets up to 180 degrees- hot enough you can't touch the intake manifold. Those 3 cyl gassers don't run well cold.

 

[MMagis]

I would make sure it gets up to 180 degrees- hot enough you can't touch the intake manifold. Those 3 cyl gassers don't run well cold.

In what way do you mean? Mine has always done well, though it's been years since I've used a diesel enough to make a fair comparison.

 

[Soundguy]

it's not good for any of those engines to run at lower than their thermostat temp.. doesn't keep the sludge out..

soundguy

 

[CHEEKS]

I would get the old oil and filter changed out and go with a good diesel oil like Rotella 5W-40 and change the filter about every 10 hours. If you are going to warm up the engine before you drain I would dump a can of Sea Foam into the crankcase and let it run for 20 minutes. I could consider a new filter first just in case the current one is in by-pass mode already.

If you are going to change it cold then let it drain for a while then go back with most any oil and a new filter and it warmed up and add a can of Sea Foam and work it for a few hours and change it again.

Sea Foam will help flush the build up out of the ring groves and all other build up. Keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge.

Blow-by is normal in these gas engines from my experience once they get some hours on them. As long as the compression is high enought to start and work do not rebuilt one unless you plan to use it 40 hours a week for hire.

I would like to have a small FEL around the place that would start and run.

Thanks Gale,ill either change oil cold,then put new and add put some marvel mystery oil in it that i have here,run and see how hot it gets,then do a good oil change,,go from there

 

[CHEEKS]

Thanks to all..i finally got to it a bit..i changed oil with a quart of engine flush cleaner,basically fancy kerosene,,ran it and i got a few drops of antifreeze out of blowby...changed oil and filter proper,ran it for a while and got no antifreeze and less smoke out of blowby,,still a few drops of milky dirty goo...motor runs quiet!!...all my gauges are out,,i think tstat works...

 

[Soundguy]

you can boil it an check.. or just replace it..

soundguy

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

My buddy has one of these and he is going to sell it now that he just fixed up a slightly newer Ford 2610 diesel. It has been a good little tractor, he just wanted a diesel as he has a diesel tank on his farm to feed his larger tractors.

 

[CHEEKS]

Thanks SOundguy,now i just stalled it in gear and took out of gear but i think safety switch in gearbox somewhere wont let me start it ..2 ft of snow to deal with!!!!!..any hints?.both are in neautral!!thanks,Jim

 

[Soundguy]

the NS switch simply interrupts power from the key to the solenoid.

if you are truly in neutral.. IE.. the tractor will roll, then you can bypass the ns switch real simply with a straight pin pushed thru both wires that come out of the top of the trans.. then giver her a try at cranking while setting int he seat... for safety..

soundguy

 

[Jerry/MT]

Thanks SOundguy,now i just stalled it in gear and took out of gear but i think safety switch in gearbox somewhere wont let me start it ..2 ft of snow to deal with!!!!!..any hints?.both are in neautral!!thanks,Jim

Some times wiggling the stick helps a sticking Neutral Safety Switch.

 

[Soundguy]

and if the connection becomes resistive.. you can use it to run a relay, and have the relay power the solenoid.

soundguy

 

[bach939]

Soundguy what do you think. Sorry to jump in on this thread, but I'm getting fustrated.

I got a Ford 4000 3 cyl that runs very rough. I had New Holland rebuild thr carb, but still have the same problem. When I installed the rebuilt carb, I couldn'get it to start. In doing some testing, I found I have no spark. Put on a new coil, but the same and rechecked the points. What I did discouver was jumping the + side of the coil to the + of the batt it started, but runs really rough and at time backfires. Took the jumper off and It started to settle down and ran pretty good for a while then back to the rough running thing. For sure, I have to do the same jumper to the coil to get it started. I pulled the three plugs and they were fairly black which tells me it's running rich. It runs better at low rpm's, but as I advance the throttle, it starts running really rough and backfires occasionally. Is there a possibility the vacuum advance is not working and why do I need to jumper the coil?

HELP!

 

[Soundguy]

sounds like it could be multiple problems.

1, do check the vacume advance mech, 2, check the timing. but check advance first.

3, that machine, if like other 3 cyl gassers, uses resistor wire from key to coil, .. check all your conenctions from the key to the coil. you said new coil.. what type? oem 6v style or a new repop 12v generic?

 

[bach939]

sounds like it could be multiple problems.

1, do check the vacume advance mech, 2, check the timing. but check advance first.

3, that machine, if like other 3 cyl gassers, uses resistor wire from key to coil, .. check all your conenctions from the key to the coil. you said new coil.. what type? oem 6v style or a new repop 12v generic?

Thanks for getting back to me. I'm going to work on it today and I will do as you suggest. The new coil is a NAPA 12 with outside resister as the old one was. I have good spark off the coil, but I feel the spark at the plug are weak. I'll trace down the resister wire and see what I can find there. It's been a hair puller. Runs good one day and the next day not.