Ford 1910 stuck in reverse

   / Ford 1910 stuck in reverse #11  
I would have to quess that either the splines on the input shaft are damaged, or the splines on the gear is damaged.

Prior to this happening, was the gear box quiet? Possible bearing failure caused damage.

Unfortunately I think you will have to split the tractor and disassemble gear box to inspect.
 
   / Ford 1910 stuck in reverse #12  
Is the rail the second from the right holding the far right rail from moving.
It looks like the square machined slots are some type of interlock to me.
 
   / Ford 1910 stuck in reverse #13  
Any thoughts?
When cycling the shifter do you see any excess movement or slack in the linkage?
Does that tranny have a gearlever ball joint? Sometimes they stick.
The roll pins in the pics seem fine, how about set screws elsewhere or other roll pins any chance of issues with them?
Stripping that gearbox may be the only choice if you need to go deeper. Ouch.
Oh and the obvious: is the clutch properly decoupling the tranny?
I am guessing you only have the one flywheel. On trannys with duals that often causes the gearbox to jam.
And I gotta ask: Were you at a dead stop when you shifted into reverse? If not the reverse idler gear may be the sore spot.
I'm just spitballing here I ain't no Transmission tech
 
   / Ford 1910 stuck in reverse #14  
I agree with LouNY, but rather the 2nd shift fork is twisted to the right somehow. Perhaps the fork is broken, but the machined notches should bypass each other, not lock in like they are in the picture.
 
   / Ford 1910 stuck in reverse
  • Thread Starter
#15  
The picture is a bit misleading in that the two rails are not interlocked. The inside rail slides under the one of the right (rev/1). The slot is for the shifter arm that attaches to column linkage. The forks look ok. What is the purpose of the interlock pin on the side of the case? It appears to go directly toward the dentent housing. Could this be broken internally and restricting the movement of the rail? The pin is non-magnetic so I'm assuming is will have to be drilled out. As others have said, splitting the tractor to get at the tranny would be the next step but I'm not experienced enough to do that and don't have the time or inclination. This has been a dependable machine for over 25 years with no problems but it may be time to retire it for a newer tractor. Trying to get parts for a 40 year machine might also prove difficult since the 10 series was only made for 4 -5 years in the mid '80s. Thanks to all for the advice.
 
 
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