Ford 1700 Starting issues

[SgtSluggo]

So this happened out in the field the other day after I turned the tractor off to brush of the radiator. When I went to get back on, the tractor wouldn't start. Didn't even try to crank, but lights came on. Had the tractor in neutral, clutch depressed as far as it would go. After doing some fiddling, I was able to get it started by shorting the starter with a screwdriver.

Couple of questions - It looks like from reading that a likely culprit is the clutch/neutral safety switch. However I am having a hard time finding this. Pictures on the internet don't seem to match anything on my tractor and I can't find it on the parts diagram. I have a service manual but the picture there also doesn't seem to match what I am looking at.

Is it possible that a previous owner tried to bypass it and failed? Where should I be looking for something like that? Any hints on how to find either this part on my tractor or figure out where the wiring went?

Is there a simpler way to temporarily bypass the switch without starting by shorting the starter? I wasn't able to reach both the key and the starter motor, so I have to have help doing it that way.

Thanks for your help!

 

[kirkawilson]

My neutral safety switch is near the steering column inside the cowling between my legs. I think that the 1700 has a clutch safety switch somewhere in the 'throw' of the clutch mechanism under the tractor.
Also might try this:Ford 1700 not turning starter, battery good, new starter 1 year ago. Clicks only, su

 

[JC-jetro]

So this happened out in the field the other day after I turned the tractor off to brush of the radiator. When I went to get back on, the tractor wouldn't start. Didn't even try to crank, but lights came on. Had the tractor in neutral, clutch depressed as far as it would go. After doing some fiddling, I was able to get it started by shorting the starter with a screwdriver.

Couple of questions - It looks like from reading that a likely culprit is the clutch/neutral safety switch. However I am having a hard time finding this. Pictures on the internet don't seem to match anything on my tractor and I can't find it on the parts diagram. I have a service manual but the picture there also doesn't seem to match what I am looking at.

Is it possible that a previous owner tried to bypass it and failed? Where should I be looking for something like that? Any hints on how to find either this part on my tractor or figure out where the wiring went?

Is there a simpler way to temporarily bypass the switch without starting by shorting the starter? I wasn't able to reach both the key and the starter motor, so I have to have help doing it that way.

Thanks for your help!

Attached you can find the clutch safety switch and how it is operated by depressing the clutch pedal. It is a simple N.O. Normally Open switch and once is pressed it closes the circuit to starter solenoid. You can do a test like I did in the pic or you can take both leads off and do a continuity check.with Ohm meter. It should be open (infinite resistance) or closed (zero resistance) once pressed. just to check the circuit just simply jump the leads and you should be able to start. If the circuit is open then when you preheat the light will not come on. I don't recommend it just jumping it t get around replacing the switch. I wondered if just some brush pulled one of the leads off.

JC,

 

[SgtSluggo]

@JC-jetro Am I right in thinking that this is on the outside of the tractor just in front of the clutch pedal? IE: I should be able to see this without taking anything else off?
If so, it is definitely not there on my tractor.

 

[JC-jetro]

@JC-jetro Am I right in thinking that this is on the outside of the tractor just in front of the clutch pedal? IE: I should be able to see this without taking anything else off?
If so, it is definitely not there on my tractor.

Yes , It is on the left side of the tractor from the side you get on. I have couple of more pic for you to see. Can't miss it. step on the clutch and look at what clutch pedal does and what it activates. look at the geometry of the arm.

JC,

 

[SgtSluggo]

Yeah, that is definitely not there. In fact, I think the bracket that the safety switch is attached to is also missing. I may remember that there were wires hanging down there, so I am going to assume a previous owner bypassed it.

Assuming the bypass is intact, any ideas on other things to check regarding my starting problem?

 

[JC-jetro]

Take a close pic of the the left side. Do look for two wires loose or perhaps tied together if he indeed bypassed the safety. Starting issue is either electrical or fuel. You were able to start it by jump the solenoid lead on the starer so that rules out the fuel to a great extent. Your key switch might also be bad. it is electrical to me based on your description. Check for lose wire. It might also be bad ground although not very likely since you were able to start with a screwdriver. There is no other safeties or timers. it is pretty simple setup as you really don't have ignition system being a diesel rig. Try the simple stuff first and report. we will find where the problems lies.

JC,

 

[SgtSluggo]

So it’s clear the safety switch has been bypassed to me. I plan on fiddling with it on Monday. If anyone has got advice on running through the ignition system to try to isolate the problem, I would appreciate it.

 

[JC-jetro]

Just jump it and that's your solution for now. The only thing that you can do is to see if you can find the mounting bracket and have extension arm that activated the switch plus the actual switch. Would be difficult to source them. Just make sure the gear is neutral or you press the clutch all the way to start so the tractor does not lounge forward and hit someone or somethiing.

JC,

 

[SgtSluggo]

Just wanted to update in case anyone else reads this. The fix was a lot simpler than I thought it was going to be. Basically, I just disconnected all the wires attached a the starter motor (after disconnecting the battery of course), cleaned everything with electrical contact cleaner, and put it all back together.

Started right up after that. Its a good thing too, because I am pretty sure that I would have to remove the fuel tank to get to any of the wiring behind the dash, and I am not sure I can handle that quite yet.

 

[JC-jetro]

Good . It was just dirty contact and for sure the previous owner removed the Neutral safety switch and jumped the ends together. Like I said before , just make sure clutch or put the gears in neutral before starting.

 

[crosspike77]

View attachment 708581

So it’s clear the safety switch has been bypassed to me. I plan on fiddling with it on Monday. If anyone has got advice on running through the ignition system to try to isolate the problem, I would appreciate it.

My clutch pedal looks like this as well and I am about to install a clutch safety switch. I am looking for a part number or what to get to install on clutch linkage to activate the safety switch.

 

[JC-jetro]

My clutch pedal looks like this as well and I am about to install a clutch safety switch. I am looking for a part number or what to get to install on clutch linkage to activate the safety switch.

it is $99 from NH website and they have it available.

SBA385200340 | Electrical Switch | New Holland Agriculture | MyCNH US Store

New Holland AG - Electrical Switch #SBA385200340

www.mycnhistore.com

$85 below

SWITCH SBA385200340 - New.Holland | AVSpare.com

spare.avspart.com

Messicks got it fro the same price as NH.

Now , if it were me to do it on my Ford 1700, then I would avoid the excessive cost and buy a simple N.O momentary switch and fab a right bracket and do it. Below you can buy the same functioming switch for $3.75.

Amazon.com: CES SPST Push Button Switch MOMENTARY-ON Normally Open : Industrial & Scientific

Buy CES SPST Push Button Switch MOMENTARY-ON Normally Open: Pushbutton Switches - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[crosspike77]

I was more thinking through the arm that activates the push button when stepping on clutch, but I think I have a solution this AM. Messicks pointed me to a switch that is a Kubota and will work the same. Found the bracket on ebay.

I'm leaning toward adding to my current tear drop piece on the clutch adjustment arm to function like those with the extra shape to actuate the switch. Going to weld it onto the piece and fab it to be one unit.

 

[JC-jetro]

Whatever work, it is a simple switch and fabbig bracket is not a big deal. There are some parts that are interchangeable. I was able to modify, fabbed new bracket and install a kubota L-175 steering column in my busted one. Transplant still works and my Ford 1700 has not rejected it yet

 

[MadJack]

Sluggo, anytime I'm re-doing electrical connections, I use a brass brush to clean and always take the time to apply di-electric grease. I rarely have an issue with that connection ever again.

Thanks for the follow up...