Ford 1700 head bolt torque

[geozeitl]

Is there a spec for the head bolt that goes into the block on the 1700. I know the nuts get torqued to 107 lbs but what about the bolts into the head.

 

[JC-jetro]

Is there a spec for the head bolt that goes into the block on the 1700. I know the nuts get torqued to 107 lbs but what about the bolts into the head.

 

[geozeitl]

Thanks JC , is that the bolt torque that screws into the block or the nut torque

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks JC , is that the bolt torque that screws into the block or the nut torque

My manual does not say it very clearly,but I think it must be for the 6 nuts @ 111-115 ft-lbs. The studs are screwed in tight, does not say what torque for them but once you cinch down on the nuts it keeps the studs in tension even if they are not very tight. it is difficult to grab the studs without scuffing up to high torque of 115 ft lbs . It is the nuts that you would torque in the criss cross pattern as they showed. Then the head cover is installed and that really just need to be tight. I have taken the cover off to check the valve last adjustment and doubt if I even had 35 ft lbs ion the two nuts that hold head cover down.

 

[geozeitl]

Thank you for the info, l just turned them in tight, l have it all back together and will try it tomorrow. Will let you know how it goes. My service manual is pretty bland. I removed the front end loader to remove the engine, My manual doesn't say but how do l get the hydraulic pump primed. Sounds like your manual is more in depth than mine

 

[JC-jetro]

You are welcome. My manual is plane Jane IT-FO44. The manufacturer's WSM would be much better like I have for my kubota. There is no instruction on how to prime the pump as there is not a fitting on the suction side that you can open and fill the pump inlet and pipe. If the pump has a good oil film on the gears and is not out of specs it should be able to self prime. if you have difficulty then take the banjo off the suction, or the larger dia pipe and inject some oil with some squeeze bottle with a small hose till it fills up. Just by inspection and normal oil level in the transmission you can observe that pump inlet just slightly higher than normal oil level in transmission and diffy housing so not much lift is necessary , specially for positive displacement gear pump.

 

[geozeitl]

Will give it a shot, let you know how things turn out

 

[geozeitl]

Hey JC, all went well today after a couple of cranks it turned right over, boy it sounds nice thanks for your advice on this post and many previous ones

 

[JC-jetro]

Hey JC, all went well today after a couple of cranks it turned right over, boy it sounds nice thanks for your advice on this post and many previous ones

Awesome Geo, glad to hear that and she does look good. I wondered if that is 1980 or 1981 model. Noticed a bracket next to the steering rod. is that a loader bracket? She'll serve you well, great lil working mule!!

 

[geozeitl]

Yes it is, getting it back on today

 

[yert33]

Your 1700 looks great!
Our 1979 1500 has what looks like a coolant leak from the head gasket. Ordered new head gasket. (Cheapest one I could find was from the Netherlands.)

What all should I do when I have the head off? Take it to a machine shop for resurfacing/valve job?

JC-Retro: thank you for the torque specs.

 

[yert33]

Now I read that I should replace the head studs as they are torque-to-yield bolts. This true? Having a hard time finding some via Google...

 

[5030]

Absolutely replace with new. Fastenal should have them

 

[yert33]

Thanks, 5030. I'll try Fastenal.

 

[yert33]

Dumb question but how do you shop Fastenal?

 

[5030]

They have retail stores about in every medium sized berg. Have an online store as well (I think). Motion Industries will also have them.

 

[5030]

The issue with 'torque to yield' head bolts or studs is they are already stretched to their working limit so if you reuse them there is a very good chance they will fail.

 

[Agvg]

Now I read that I should replace the head studs as they are torque-to-yield bolts. This true? Having a hard time finding some via Google...

Are you sure on that? Not very common on old tractors, if it's required in the manual to retorque the bolts they are regular bolts.

 

[5030]

Whatever the workshop manual says. In as much as I don't know, follow it'

 

[yert33]

Thanks, Agvg and 5030. I do not have a shop manual, only the owner's manual. Any clue as to where I could obtain one?