ford 1700 clutch problem

[Noknees45]

JC- the clutch disck looks like new, plenty of life left (I'm replacing anyway).

Got the clutch kit (clutch, pressure plate, both bearings) from auction site for 181.00, including shipping. And they are throwing in the alignment tool for me. Good deal. Now I hope that it's all the right stuff....sizes etc. That's the only glitch. From the description/pics, I am confident it will be the right stuff. Oh, I also found and IT book and bought that too.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[Bedlam]

Not to hijack, but by IT do you people mean like this manual?
I&T Shop Manual Ford 1120 1220 1320 1520 1720 1920 2120 - eBay (item 250434827629 end time Dec-26-09 07:54:20 PST)
I'm looking for one but don't want to get one that isn't detailed enough So I assume that the IT is the one to seek?It says that int he ad but, of course they wouldn't say otherwise LOL
Oh is it fine to have so many models in one book or should I look for one that has my specific model?

 

[JC-jetro]

Not to hijack, but by IT do you people mean like this manual?
I&T Shop Manual Ford 1120 1220 1320 1520 1720 1920 2120 - eBay (item 250434827629 end time Dec-26-09 07:54:20 PST)
I'm looking for one but don't want to get one that isn't detailed enough So I assume that the IT is the one to seek?It says that int he ad but, of course they wouldn't say otherwise LOL
Oh is it fine to have so many models in one book or should I look for one that has my specific model?

That's correct, but if you want IT manual that covers Ford 1700 then it is FO-44.

JC,

 

[Texas Blues]

Yea, thats the manual I bought. Its lacking, but gives you some info. I wouldnt count on it for major rebuilds and in depth repairs. Its still a good reference guide to have around though. TB

 

[Bedlam]

thanks
JC I dont have tthe 1700 anymore but it was a PERFECT tractor to me..
Just found this one does it seem more detailed, thus the price.?

 

[Soundguy]

the I&T manuals are good basic maintenance manuals.. I wouldn't want to rely upon one for a top to bottom rebuild.. but for maintenance and many repairs.. they are a good cheap option. I've also found that level of detail varies greatly among the I&T line.. for instance.. the ford N FO-4 manual is very detailed.. could probably easilly do a rebuild with only it and the parts catalog.. however.. jump up one model to the NAA, and the FO-19 manual is pretty much just a phamplet that hits the high points.. has about 1/4 of the detail of the fo-4 manual.. go figure. ditto on other colors.. the allis chalmers manual I have for my 'G' cover like 5 other models, and doesn't hit in very much detail on each model.. just general stuff..

soundguy

 

[JC-jetro]

JC- the clutch disck looks like new, plenty of life left (I'm replacing anyway).

Got the clutch kit (clutch, pressure plate, both bearings) from auction site for 181.00, including shipping. And they are throwing in the alignment tool for me. Good deal. Now I hope that it's all the right stuff....sizes etc. That's the only glitch. From the description/pics, I am confident it will be the right stuff. Oh, I also found and IT book and bought that too.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Just for visual reference. Below is actual OEM NH clutch plate for Ford-1700.

JC,

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

For my 1900 I first bought the manuals from Jensales. They were ok but not as detailed as I wanted . I searched the auction sites and found a origional Ford service manual and spent about 3x what I spent on the Jensales manual and it was identical. I was disapointed the Ford manual wasn't more detailed.
Bill

 

[Bedlam]

Hooked thanks for the post. when i search the ford I see in () they say It manual so it sound like its the same as the expensive one on ebay. I have to request a special price for the one for 4 WD.
But looks like a good resource.
Jensales Manuals Original Technical, Operators and Service Manuals, and Parts Catalogs for combines, tractors, balers, and farm implements.
Again OP thanks for letting me do the short High jack of your thread..

 

[Noknees45]

I bought the IT FO-44 manual- 30.00 plus 5 shipping.

JC- Yup, that plate looks exactly like the one that came out. Not getting the parts until middle of next week, so install won't be until next weekend. I have been doing some other minor stuff while it's apart.

Any suggestions of things I could/should do while I have it split in half??

Thanks-

 

[JC-jetro]

I bought the IT FO-44 manual- 30.00 plus 5 shipping.



Any suggestions of things I could/should do while I have it split in half??

Thanks-

Nope, it seems you have all your ducks in a row. I had a nightmare scenario once. About 25 years ago I changed a clutch disk for a buddy in college just to earn a bit of cash money. I ended up buying a reman pressure plate and disk. Apparently the pressure plate was re-ground. Making a long story short, took every thing apart, put the reman stuff in, put things back, started the car and all looking and sounding good while gear in neutral. I clutched, first gear and no go clutched, second gear and no go again. Took foot off the clutch and put the transmission in all gear, no grinding and no go as well Ended up dissecting the stupid thing again and took the part to store, right away they realized the pressure plate was way off the specs and they gave me OEM right away. if I knew any better, I would have tested the clutch plate by trying to rotate the disk with the aligning tool. My disk was totally free spinning and I did not realize.

Compare pressure plate thickness for sure and make sure it is not free spinning after you install and torqued the pressure plate to flywheel.

Make sure to check the seals for oil leakage from transmission and also engine side. Guys reporting flywheel bolts to engine are torqued in excess of 250 lb-ft

JC,

 

[Noknees45]

Ok, should have the clutch kit tomorrow! So I hope to put it all back together this weekend! I'll post some more pictures when I get it done.

Besides looking for evidence of oil present in the clutch housing, how should I check the seals for oil leakage? There is a little bit of oil in the bottom of the housing where the clutch is, but other than that it looks good to go....??

 

[Soundguy]

I've never had a 1700 apart.. but on other models.. when yuo do the clutch, you also do the input shaft seal for the tranny ( as you usually use it as an align tool as well ).. that and throw out and pilot .. etc.

soundguy

 

[JC-jetro]

Ok, should have the clutch kit tomorrow! So I hope to put it all back together this weekend! I'll post some more pictures when I get it done.

Besides looking for evidence of oil present in the clutch housing, how should I check the seals for oil leakage? There is a little bit of oil in the bottom of the housing where the clutch is, but other than that it looks good to go....??

I have not done seal replacement on my 1700 as I never needed to change the clutch yet.

If you go to NH website, under 1700 and transmission clutch diagram you'll find a seal #46 that does the input shaft like Soundguy suggested.

Pics below is the courtesy of Russel. Thanks bud

Transmission Input shaft and the retainer.

after you remove it , then you'll see the seal right in front of that bearing you see in the back of the housing.

This pic is not of 1700 but it is TC-35 but with the same design.

Once you remove the Flywheel that's is what you see a big seal that goes around the rear end of crankshaft. Flywheel to crankshaft bolts are torqued pretty tight, not very easy to remove, need breaker bar and may be a cheater pipe for some positive enforcement.. On NH website that is seal #19 under crankshaft and flywheel diagram.

Now before I start tearing in to things, I'd examine the oil in the bottom of clutch housing, I start to sniff around and compare and contrast with transmission oil and engine oil to see if I can ascertain where it belongs. Look at tell tale sign of oil seepage behind the flywheel that is slung around or the input shaft.

Good luck,

JC,

 

[Texas Blues]

Nice pics JC. My throw bearing is making some noise, its only a matter of time before I pull mine apart. One thing I am real glad to see is the rear main seal is the big lip type that is removable from behind the flywheel. When its that easy to get to, no sense in not replacing it if it has never been replaced before. Good Luck Bickley! TB

 

[JC-jetro]

When its that easy to get to, no sense in not replacing it if it has never been replaced before. Good Luck Bickley! TB

Hey Tex,

I don't know if I go all the way and call it "easy". You know that "no good deed will ever go unpunished" a well seated seal that is not leaking should last a long time. If my seal looked okay and no oil seepage I'd probably think long and hard before getting in to it. It is not a cost issue, checked with Messicks and per their website the seal is around $20.

JC,

 

[Texas Blues]

True enough JC, I guess i should have said "if it was leaking or looked worn". Got to hand it to the japanese motor makers, they know how to put one together thats lasts. I was always impressed with the way they sealed motors. TB

 

[Noknees45]

Thanks for all the comments. Got the clutch kit on Saturday, but since it's the end of muzzle-loader season for deer....I have been putting the tractor off - Anyway, I am going out to the barn and start putting the 1700 back together. I'll send some pic's when I get it all done (and/or if I need more advice)! Cross your fingers and she'll be running by Christmas.

 

[Noknees45]

Good luck with that late season!

Hey- I got a question. While I am doing the clutch, I have been doing all the other "routine" maintainance that I have neglected. I read your post on changing the fuel injector pump oil, and saw the pictures you posted. On the 1700 there is no "drain hole" or "fill hole", so how do you drain the old out and how do you know how much oil to put back in?? The only access to the injecto pump is through the "breather/fill" cap on top. Then there are two other valves to bleed the fuel lines. If you are not sure what I am talking about, I'll post pictures....Thanks-